Yo Telly, did you install your hayames yet ? coz i'm planning to get them as well from proparts but i'm just wondering if i should go for them since everybody's having problems with them.
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Hey there. My Hayames are installed, and save for the alignment issue, I'm pretty good to go actually. Install was a breeze. Took 3 hours, but that's cause we knocked out one of the strut bolts and had to hunt around the garage for it, LOL.Originally Posted by FaiJai
Yo Telly, did you install your hayames yet ? coz i'm planning to get them as well from proparts but i'm just wondering if i should go for them since everybody's having problems with them. 
Hey Guys,
I installed mine and everything look fine. My gf is getting jealousy because I keep looking at my car. There is no pb with my set except I bang out the two strut bolts from one side. It's a little bouncy and I don't know how to set this yet. I am afraid to set it too hard and it will be making a thud noise. If you know what to do or how to set it please post it. Thanks, Dragchic
I installed mine and everything look fine. My gf is getting jealousy because I keep looking at my car. There is no pb with my set except I bang out the two strut bolts from one side. It's a little bouncy and I don't know how to set this yet. I am afraid to set it too hard and it will be making a thud noise. If you know what to do or how to set it please post it. Thanks, Dragchic
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1 and 2 is the spring perch(what the spring sits on). you want to adjust 1 so that the spring doesnt move around freely(this is called preload). now you want to move 2 up to 1 so that it doesnt spin easily. Use the tools they provide you to lock them tight. you shouldnt be able to move 1 or 2 without that tool now...
locknut 3, this is what your mainly going to use to adjust the ride height. loosen it up and keep it near 2 or something. now since its off the car you can just simply spin the bottom mounts to where you want it. now when you found the length you want it at(see one of my posts above that says where i set it at), bring back 3 and lock it tight to the bottom mount using the tool so that your not able to spin the bottom mount anymore.
if you need help, just look at the picture, it'll show how the 3 locknuts should go. they should all be tight when they go on the car tho.
As for adjusting them when they're on the car.. leave 1 and 2 alone. there should already be enough preload so that its hard to spin the spring...
loosen 3 and then just spin the entire spring/shock till your desire height. than tighten 3 again.
Adding more pre-load = compress the spring a bit more (no more than an inch) will make your ride less bouncy. Recommend about 1/4 to 1/2" If you have any more question just ask here.Originally Posted by VNlilMAN
ok there's 3 locknuts right... from top to bottom we'll label them 1, 2 and 3...1 and 2 is the spring perch(what the spring sits on). you want to adjust 1 so that the spring doesnt move around freely(this is called preload). now you want to move 2 up to 1 so that it doesnt spin easily. Use the tools they provide you to lock them tight. you shouldnt be able to move 1 or 2 without that tool now...
locknut 3, this is what your mainly going to use to adjust the ride height. loosen it up and keep it near 2 or something. now since its off the car you can just simply spin the bottom mounts to where you want it. now when you found the length you want it at(see one of my posts above that says where i set it at), bring back 3 and lock it tight to the bottom mount using the tool so that your not able to spin the bottom mount anymore.
if you need help, just look at the picture, it'll show how the 3 locknuts should go. they should all be tight when they go on the car tho.
As for adjusting them when they're on the car.. leave 1 and 2 alone. there should already be enough preload so that its hard to spin the spring...
loosen 3 and then just spin the entire spring/shock till your desire height. than tighten 3 again.
Got my rear set at 3/4" preload. It's plenty stiff, maybe even TOO stiff for most. But I figger it'll go well with my rear sway.
Telly: so you basically flipped the tire rod right ? and everything was smooth sailing from that point on ?
Yup, flipped the tie rod, all went well. If you're a member of TCC, a member there named loudsubz did most of the work on my install, so you can ask him his thoughts on the process.
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Finally! VNlilMAN has confirmed that the wiggle is normal while all others said that they are not having a wiggle. DId you guys even check your ride?? Originally Posted by dacivic
for 518 no... 
c'mon people, check the wiggle baybee 
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It cant be the spring because the spring isnt keeping everything aligned, the whole strut is. There would have to be play within the whole strut and not the spring if it were the case.
But ya its normal for it to have a little play.
Originally Posted by VNlilMAN
ITS NORMAL!!! I can jack up my car and wiggle the thing too.It cant be the spring because the spring isnt keeping everything aligned, the whole strut is. There would have to be play within the whole strut and not the spring if it were the case.
But ya its normal for it to have a little play.
please tell me you are serious!!! that F'n alignment shop kept complaining about that! I had a feeling this is not that serious since you can only move it a little on the said hand positions. I was also under the impression that it was normal since the front suspension of the Civic/RSX is different from all other. I call the Civic/RSX front, an F-1sh suspension
I will check for you tomorrow when I take out more pre-load and hammer the 3rd lock(hopefully will lose that clicking sound)
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Originally Posted by dacivic
I will check for you tomorrow when I take out more pre-load and hammer the 3rd lock(hopefully will lose that clicking sound) dude, do it now!
all you have to do is jack up one wheel. If its the driver side wheel, position your hand to 11 o'clock and on the 5 o'clock. And do the wiggle wiggle shaky shaky thingy 
But VNlilMAN said its normal so Im not worried right now.
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If its at 1/7, 11/5 than its the bolts that are loose. this is the "camber kit" i'm talking about. The bolts must be tight, than they wont move.
no wiggle on all other hand positions but 1/7 and 11/5.Originally Posted by VNlilMAN
wait wait.. so when you put your hands on 3 and 9 does it wiggle? it should a little...If its at 1/7, 11/5 than its the bolts that are loose. this is the "camber kit" i'm talking about. The bolts must be tight, than they wont move.
this is the answer I was looking for!!! Again, VNlilMAN came to the rescue! what am I going to do with the bolt?
now, since its camber related, then the alignment shop can do this with no charge. hopefully!
I checked my co-workers 2002 coupe, and it moves a little bit the same way mine does. Her Civic is all stock mind you.
Now, I am not worried!!!
My analysis of the suspension why it moves on 11/5 (driver side) and 1/7 (Pass side):
If you have your hands positioned like the above, it moves since the tie-rod arm of the suspension is facing back or away from where you are pressing the wheels from. It is normal, like VNlilMAN said, since the strain on the suspension is not on those positions. The strain on the suspension is more likely to happen where the suspension arm is facing. Thus, that part is not or should not move at all.
I hope Im right.
Now, I am not worried!!!
My analysis of the suspension why it moves on 11/5 (driver side) and 1/7 (Pass side):
If you have your hands positioned like the above, it moves since the tie-rod arm of the suspension is facing back or away from where you are pressing the wheels from. It is normal, like VNlilMAN said, since the strain on the suspension is not on those positions. The strain on the suspension is more likely to happen where the suspension arm is facing. Thus, that part is not or should not move at all.
I hope Im right.
Well, it's official - Hayame's allowed me to return both sets of coilovers (V1s were to trade for V2s and now the V2s have to be returned). They will be returned because it's just been too damn long that I've been dealing with the coilovers, and since the V2 install, I've been without a drivable car for 2 weeks. It's really hard depending on a company that resides overseas, so no more JDM ****. It's just unfortunate that I'll never get to see how the V2s really ride. My B+Gs have been ordered and the only thing that's in my way of getting what I want is a crossthreaded bolt from the left Hayame strut tower that's holding on the nut. This happened upon installing them for the first time, so go figure. I'd have to wait forever for a new upper-mount. I'm not gonna spend the rest of my summer waiting to lower my car while everyone else is already there.
So it seems the only issue with the rear was tire size. Hayame's will go low enough in the rear if you're running the stock tire size, or an equivalent size on different sized wheels. I guess that's just how it is, how it was and how it will always be. If I was aware of it earlier then there would've been no wait but oh well... live & learn.
So now, I'm on my 4th suspension suspension set-up, and hopefully it'll be my last for a while. It's been fun being on the Hayame bandwagon but I am off of it. Mike from UrbanImport has been a great help who delivers great customer service and I encourage peeps to buy from him if they want Hayames. I may still be around to help answer questions about Hayames though.
So it seems the only issue with the rear was tire size. Hayame's will go low enough in the rear if you're running the stock tire size, or an equivalent size on different sized wheels. I guess that's just how it is, how it was and how it will always be. If I was aware of it earlier then there would've been no wait but oh well... live & learn.
So now, I'm on my 4th suspension suspension set-up, and hopefully it'll be my last for a while. It's been fun being on the Hayame bandwagon but I am off of it. Mike from UrbanImport has been a great help who delivers great customer service and I encourage peeps to buy from him if they want Hayames. I may still be around to help answer questions about Hayames though.
i just got mine and put them on my 02 Coupe with no problems at all, straight replacement. switch in and out, i bought them off a member here, so i had a pic of what it was preset to, i dropped the back a little more.. and boom.. done within 2 hours... i'll update with a link to pics soon. 
I took a day off from work to see SPW Industries' warehouse in LA. Met with Noah, Jimmy who's one of the owners, Byron; Product Development Guy, and the co-owner which I forgot the name.
The reason why I went to see them is to straighten out the 'play' issue on the upper strut. After one double-double from in-n-out, milk shakes, test drive on the freeway, tightening the middle upper bolt, the play was normal. Bryon, the product development manager was the one who took the whole suspension out and test fit the OEM shocks to see if there is a bit of a play. Byron drove to the freeway and let go of the steering wheel, no pulling or unnecessary craziness on the steering at all.
After the test drive, Byron asked my opinion if I wanted a refund or not. They said, I am the one will make the final decision. They will refund me if I asked to. But after the test drive with Byron, everything seems normal. Now that I have confirmed that the 'play' was normal, I went to drive home.
Overall, I am very satisfied the way SPW tried to resolve any issue we may have. They are there to help us out any way they can.
Before I left the warehouse, they asked if they can test-fit a Hayame cat-back exhaust. The application was for EX but they said they'll give it a try. Unfortunately, the EX exhaust is different with the LX. So, I walked away without the FREE cat-back exhaust. Why oh why didnt I get the EX
If anyone is in the LA area and has an EX, you may want to give Noah a call and get a free Hayame cat-back. When I saw the cat-back, it was awesome! TIG welding and light!!!
I'm still selling my Hayame because I need the damper adjustability.
The reason why I went to see them is to straighten out the 'play' issue on the upper strut. After one double-double from in-n-out, milk shakes, test drive on the freeway, tightening the middle upper bolt, the play was normal. Bryon, the product development manager was the one who took the whole suspension out and test fit the OEM shocks to see if there is a bit of a play. Byron drove to the freeway and let go of the steering wheel, no pulling or unnecessary craziness on the steering at all.
After the test drive, Byron asked my opinion if I wanted a refund or not. They said, I am the one will make the final decision. They will refund me if I asked to. But after the test drive with Byron, everything seems normal. Now that I have confirmed that the 'play' was normal, I went to drive home.
Overall, I am very satisfied the way SPW tried to resolve any issue we may have. They are there to help us out any way they can.
Before I left the warehouse, they asked if they can test-fit a Hayame cat-back exhaust. The application was for EX but they said they'll give it a try. Unfortunately, the EX exhaust is different with the LX. So, I walked away without the FREE cat-back exhaust. Why oh why didnt I get the EX
If anyone is in the LA area and has an EX, you may want to give Noah a call and get a free Hayame cat-back. When I saw the cat-back, it was awesome! TIG welding and light!!!
I'm still selling my Hayame because I need the damper adjustability.
i don't get it.. i've not had any issues over it, it was no problem at all.
I have developed a bit of a clicking problem in the passenger front. I noticed it on the way to the bodyshop today (dropping my car off for front end work). Booooo, I just tightened those locknuts as tight as they'll go. Thing is I DID notice the rubber piece (spring isolator?) at the top of the strut assembly was a little off. I didn't bother fixin it, I just put the car back down. That might be the problem. And being the idiot I am, I didn't check the top strut bolts. And now my car's in the shop and I'm not gonna get her back till Friday. Which is why I'm posting this - so I remember what I DID and DIDN'T check before dropping it off. I don't think it's anything serious though - you can't hear the noise from outside the car even - I watched one of the shop staffers drive it in, and he got out and complained about the clicking. I was standing 4 feet away and didn't hear it.
note to self: check floor bar - also looked a little off when dropped off.
another note to self: thong hanging from rearview mirror is dusty; replace with new one.
note to self: check floor bar - also looked a little off when dropped off.
another note to self: thong hanging from rearview mirror is dusty; replace with new one.
518 I finally had the time to retighten the 3rd nut. I tried your method but I had no play in the front. What year civic do you have?
Hayame has better customer service than JIC-Magic at least.
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At first, I thought it was an issue. That is why I stopped by SPW to straighten everything out once and for all. They were also glad that a 7thgen'er stopped by to look at the problem whether its installation or product flaw.
telly, I told them about the rubber spring isolator that it eliminates the squeeking but the drawback is that it starts to rip once you put pre-load on the springs. They are also aware that you can never drop it to 2" at least on the rear. Byron also said that you can never have the spring 'floating' just to achieve the tucked civic. That would be a safety issue. So, whoever made a review about how they were able to achieve a tucked Hayame on an aftermarket wheels or maybe even stock, needs to be careful when driving.
byron also explained why the tie-rod end is inserted from the bottom.
/ \ view from the front of the car with stock
\ / if the tie-rod is inserted from the top and lowered.
___ ___ tie-rod inserted from the bottom compensates for the lowered height. The design is to anticipate the lowering of the car so the the tie-rod sits perpendicular to the pavement.
Those are not the exact measurement, but you get the idea, I hope
At first, I thought it was an issue. That is why I stopped by SPW to straighten everything out once and for all. They were also glad that a 7thgen'er stopped by to look at the problem whether its installation or product flaw.
telly, I told them about the rubber spring isolator that it eliminates the squeeking but the drawback is that it starts to rip once you put pre-load on the springs. They are also aware that you can never drop it to 2" at least on the rear. Byron also said that you can never have the spring 'floating' just to achieve the tucked civic. That would be a safety issue. So, whoever made a review about how they were able to achieve a tucked Hayame on an aftermarket wheels or maybe even stock, needs to be careful when driving.
byron also explained why the tie-rod end is inserted from the bottom.
/ \ view from the front of the car with stock
\ / if the tie-rod is inserted from the top and lowered.
___ ___ tie-rod inserted from the bottom compensates for the lowered height. The design is to anticipate the lowering of the car so the the tie-rod sits perpendicular to the pavement.
Those are not the exact measurement, but you get the idea, I hope
nicely done.
I just got mine installed and it's making sounds in the front like something is loose. i'm not sure what it is. does anyone know??
