Hayame Coilovers V.2.0 - a VERY long wait!
06-16-2004
#62
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I was with Grey this weekend when he installed the V2 fronts and it fit for him fine. He needed to flip the tie rod, but other than that it worked well... Maybe he can visit this thread and add more...
06-16-2004
#63
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Rep Power: 0 I wouldn't feel very comfortable with an upside down tie rod considering it's a main component that steers your car. I would consider waitin and making it correct?
06-16-2004
#64
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Originally Posted by matrix311
I wouldn't feel very comfortable with an upside down tie rod considering it's a main component that steers your car. I would consider waitin and making it correct?
06-16-2004
#65
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Rep Power: 0 Installing the hole upside down without warning... I dunno if I can say that's a vital excuse but whatever. It keeps them looking "professional" but not completely professional. What I was told is that the hole was made that way because they were short on time. Now we're hearing that the hole was made properly, just upside down?
I don't care - either way there's a truth and there's a lie and apparently I know which was true and which was false. It's not SPW's fault, they're just a distributor, not a manufacturer.
I don't care - either way there's a truth and there's a lie and apparently I know which was true and which was false. It's not SPW's fault, they're just a distributor, not a manufacturer.
06-16-2004
#66
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Rep Power: 0 geez, I'm glad Im reading the entirety of this thread.
Can someone edit the first post and add the "hayame sending replacement arm and no drilling is required" please. I know for someone who isnt reading the whole thread can ask the question over and over again.
Thank you for all the updates guys
Another month....
Can someone edit the first post and add the "hayame sending replacement arm and no drilling is required" please. I know for someone who isnt reading the whole thread can ask the question over and over again.
Thank you for all the updates guys
They have a list of the people who have v2.0 Hayames and will be sending out replacement arms within 3 weeks free of charge with the properly drilled hole the correct direction.
Last edited by 518; 06-16-2004 at 10:33 AM.
06-16-2004
#67
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Rep Power: 344 I know man, but at least the money I would have spent on install (either professionally or on tools and parts) will now go to molding and painting my front bumper. Hurrah. My sponsor is calling SPW again today to make sure they're sending a couple sets up to Canada. I'll post anything new I hear, I hope anyone else with updates does too.
06-16-2004
#68
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Rep Power: 344 BTW someone told me that the Si (Canadian=SiR) tie rod ends aren't tapered like the EM/ES ones - can someone check on this? If so, anyone looking for a quick fix might be able to get it going with that.
*Edit* wait nvm...it's also tapered according to the service manual....
*Edit* wait nvm...it's also tapered according to the service manual....
Last edited by TeLLy; 06-16-2004 at 10:50 AM.
06-16-2004
#69
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Rep Power: 0 telly don't pay something to install them for you. I and few others can probaby do it for you if you can find a host. I hope they fix this so I can call in and get mine replace.....
06-16-2004
#70
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Rep Power: 344 No worries, I just talked to a friend who will help me do it - he has the tools, I have the DIY. All I need to give him is beer, and maybe rub his belly. You DO know I'm in Canada right? Thanks anyway though.
06-16-2004
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Hayame coilover installation for 01-up Civic and 02-up RSX
Regarding part numbers: HAY10.71.17 & HAY10.71.04
The new version of Hayame coilovers for 01-up Civic and 02-up RSX received a slight design improvement, which may lead to some confusion during installation.
In order to improve the alignment and positioning of the tie-rod in relation to the coilover, we redesigned the coilover arm to accept the tie-rod on the under side rather than the top of the arm. In other words, the tie-rod should be rotated 180 degrees, and inserted through the bottom of the coilover arm. Installed this way, the taper will properly accept the tie-rod and there is no need to enlarge the hole.
We will be posting more complete installation instructions along with photographs and/or illustrations on our website (hayameperformance.com) in the near future.
We apologize for any confusion this may have caused. For any questions concerning this matter, please find our contact information at hayameperformance.com.
The new version of Hayame coilovers for 01-up Civic and 02-up RSX received a slight design improvement, which may lead to some confusion during installation.
In order to improve the alignment and positioning of the tie-rod in relation to the coilover, we redesigned the coilover arm to accept the tie-rod on the under side rather than the top of the arm. In other words, the tie-rod should be rotated 180 degrees, and inserted through the bottom of the coilover arm. Installed this way, the taper will properly accept the tie-rod and there is no need to enlarge the hole.
We will be posting more complete installation instructions along with photographs and/or illustrations on our website (hayameperformance.com) in the near future.
We apologize for any confusion this may have caused. For any questions concerning this matter, please find our contact information at hayameperformance.com.
06-16-2004
#75
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Rep Power: 344 Oh so now I can install them.....actually, I'd rather wait till someone flips the tie rod end over first and installs it...I know, I'm a b*tch, but I wanna make sure this works well before I start hackin away...
06-16-2004
#77
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Originally Posted by Hayame/SPW
Regarding part numbers: HAY10.71.17 & HAY10.71.04
The new version of Hayame coilovers for 01-up Civic and 02-up RSX received a slight design improvement, which may lead to some confusion during installation.
In order to improve the alignment and positioning of the tie-rod in relation to the coilover, we redesigned the coilover arm to accept the tie-rod on the under side rather than the top of the arm. In other words, the tie-rod should be rotated 180 degrees, and inserted through the bottom of the coilover arm. Installed this way, the taper will properly accept the tie-rod and there is no need to enlarge the hole.
We will be posting more complete installation instructions along with photographs and/or illustrations on our website (hayameperformance.com) in the near future.
We apologize for any confusion this may have caused. For any questions concerning this matter, please find our contact information at hayameperformance.com.
The new version of Hayame coilovers for 01-up Civic and 02-up RSX received a slight design improvement, which may lead to some confusion during installation.
In order to improve the alignment and positioning of the tie-rod in relation to the coilover, we redesigned the coilover arm to accept the tie-rod on the under side rather than the top of the arm. In other words, the tie-rod should be rotated 180 degrees, and inserted through the bottom of the coilover arm. Installed this way, the taper will properly accept the tie-rod and there is no need to enlarge the hole.
We will be posting more complete installation instructions along with photographs and/or illustrations on our website (hayameperformance.com) in the near future.
We apologize for any confusion this may have caused. For any questions concerning this matter, please find our contact information at hayameperformance.com.
Okay, my suspension install appointment is on for this Saturday
Last edited by 518; 06-16-2004 at 04:48 PM.
06-16-2004
#78
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Rep Power: 0 Since someone is here giving answers to problems, it doesn't seem like it'd be so hard to tell us what's up with the height problems but that's okay. I guess I can be patient. 
06-16-2004
#79
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Rep Power: 0 hehe slam. I really want to know if others with v2 have the height problem for the rear coilover. Once everything is resolve I will give SPW a call to get my v1 replaced.
06-16-2004
#80
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Rep Power: 344 Patient schmatient. TeLLy wants answers!!! LOL. You know I talked to a fwe ppl about this, and they think this "flipping tie rod" business will reduce stress on the rod from lowering, and potentially could be a little more quiet as a result. I dunno, I'm just repeating what I've heard, from guys who really know their stuff.
But yeah, what about this rear end biz? I do want a bit of preload on there cause I like my rear stiff, I hope that reducing preload isn't the only solution...ah well, we'll find out on Monday I guess.
But yeah, what about this rear end biz? I do want a bit of preload on there cause I like my rear stiff, I hope that reducing preload isn't the only solution...ah well, we'll find out on Monday I guess.
06-17-2004
#81
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Rep Power: 0 well guys, got my front end of the hayame v2's on today. everything installed really smooth, no drilling, or nothin. the tie rod fits and works perfectly fine on the upside down position, but after installing them you will DEFINATELY have to have them realigned because it throws the alignment off quite a bit. i have it lowered about 3" and it looks sick, and rides great imo. Tom. i will be installing the rears, and i will post how that goes. but as far as the fronts go, so far so good!!!!
06-17-2004
#82
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But yeah, what about this rear end biz? I do want a bit of preload on there cause I like my rear stiff, I hope that reducing preload isn't the only solution...ah well, we'll find out on Monday I guess.
I don't get it. Again, this is my story with the rear Hayames. When I install the coilovers in the rear, I have to put them on with them being set at it's lowest (or the lower collar screwed all the way in). Once on, I have little room to turn the strut CLOCKWISE to lower it. If I go counter-clockwise, I'll extend the strut, thus I'll be raising the height... and yes, I've tried this. I even tried extending the strut and taking the preload away from the spring so it's loose - it doesn't work that way because it's height is based on it's strut. If it were to lower the car then the brake rotor would be noticably higher and your camber arm would face more horizontally - but it's not!
So then we say, "Oh, maybe the spring is too compressed." So we take the preload off and the spring is loose... and since the strut isn't going down with the spring, that must mean that if this car hits a bump on the road, I'm gonna loose suspension travel. Not only will I loose suspension travel, but I'll be ruining my suspension parts and my car is going to ride & handle like **** to the point an oversized rear anti sway bar couldn't even help it handle better.
The concept is to shorten the strut with the bottom collar - to lower the car, right?
If I am doing something wrong, let me know!
06-17-2004
#83
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Rep Power: 0 I dont think you are doing anything wrong there slam. I tried the same thing and the rear won't go low enough. Let's see if anyone with V2 has the same rear problem.
06-17-2004
#84
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Rep Power: 286 I dont have any experience with coilovers, but why do you have to turn the strut inside the sleeve anyway? Cant you just leave it at its max travel setting and then screw the lower perch up higher thus decreasing the ride height?
Sorry for being a noob on this..
Sorry for being a noob on this..
06-17-2004
#85
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The concept is to shorten the strut with the bottom collar - to lower the car, right?
06-17-2004
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Rep Power: 344 Hmmm....this may lead to crappy-type lowering-isms. But maybe the 100lb sub box in the trunk will compress my rear enough....
06-17-2004
#87
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Originally Posted by flotsamm
I dont have any experience with coilovers, but why do you have to turn the strut inside the sleeve anyway? Cant you just leave it at its max travel setting and then screw the lower perch up higher thus decreasing the ride height?
Sorry for being a noob on this..
Sorry for being a noob on this..
06-17-2004
#88
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Originally Posted by TeLLy
Hmmm....this may lead to crappy-type lowering-isms. But maybe the 100lb sub box in the trunk will compress my rear enough....
06-17-2004
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Rep Power: 0 ok, got them on. all i got to say is i am really disappointed. maybe i am adjusting them wrong, but the way i am doing it, only lowered the car by about an inch at the most. the strut will NOT screw down anymore, and the only way to get the car any lower, would be to compress the spring, but then you get **** for ride quality. im going out to mess with it some more, il post more about it later. if im adjusting them wrong, someone please say so.
