Rep Power: 368

Try tightening the 3rd locknut first. Tighten the bejeesus out of it. If that doesn't help, examine your tie rod bolt, upper mounts, and upper locknuts.

 
Rep Power: 0

it could be the locking perch for pre-load. They have a tendency to come loose if no really tight, I mean really tight!

And dont forget to bejeesus tight the center nut on the upper strut. Use an air-tool.

 
Rep Power: 368

Oh fack I've gone and forgotten to check the center nut too! Stupid TeLLy!

 
Rep Power: 0

trust me man, it wasnt hard to foget about the middle locknut. That is how shaking, rattling and whatnot starts to happen.

By the way, after Byron (SPW Product Dev't Manager) test fitted, disassembled the strut, test drive, the car doesnt bounce as much on the freeway. That was my biggest complain. But while I was driving home, my internal organs didnt bounced so much like before.

 
Rep Power: 0

That's what happen to you when you don't have any pre-load (bouncy)

I tigthen the 3rd nut so hard (with hammer), almost have no pre-load and after one day the clicking come back....

 
Rep Power: 0

Just wanna make sure, you're using the two spanner wrenches, correct? But Im pretty sure you, I dont know what could have prevent this from happening.

 
Rep Power: 0

Yea everything is so tight I can't even loose them lol.

 
Rep Power: 0

I went to another alignment shop today. Remember I was at SPW Industries warehouse for 5 hours yesterday? And there they said the 'play' or wiggle was normal? And which VNlilMAN said it was normal too. Well, the alignment shop that I went today found where the problem was! The problem was at the tie-rod bolt. It wasnt tight enough. It was just hand tight. The guy used a small impact wrench to screw the nut down. Now, the wiggle or the play is gone!!! Cyrus, from JC Auto Haus asked if I wanted to have the suspension checked. At first, I hesitated to have the guy work on it. I thought he didnt know what he was doing. Im glad I took the risk to have him look at the suspension. He was able to figure out where and it didnt even took him 5mins to find where the problem was.

Im satisfied now.

One thing bothered me for sure. He saw the weld job and he said it looks like this was made in China. I replied "no, this is made in Japan." He asked me, "Why, because there is a stamp on the suspension that says Made in Japan? Tell me one thing, does the box say Made in Japan? If not, then this is not made in Japan."

End of argument...

 
Rep Power: 0

what does a weld from china exactly look like?? he knew it was made in china looking at the weld job? BS.

 
Rep Power: 326

What's the third nut, the bottom ring of the three up front? And with preload wouldn't the car sit mad high? I have my back wheels ALMOST tucked but it's not bounching at all. I do know however the spring is floating. If I preload the rear, I would assume this thing would be jacked up quite a bit. What do you guys suggest?

 
Rep Power: 0

I have my original box. Doesn't say "Made In Japan". Talk about ricer advertisement.

But who knows? A lot of people base quality on where it comes from and rank parts from Japan #1 for some stupid reason. It would boost sales for the ricers who think JDM makes better quality parts for their Japanese import. It's not like there are no crappy Japanese companies (and there are). We don't know Hayame's reputation in Japan. They may rank at the bottom of the list in terms of quality. They may accel in other areas and lack in suspension (which could be the case). To say the least, I'm glad SPW has good customer service because there are many companies popular for making coilovers and have shitty customer service. I could probably add Ground Control to the list.

But in the end, I will never buy a new part on the market ever again because you become someone's guinea pig. I won't buy parts manufactured from Japan or overseas again cuz the wait is too long if new parts are needed. And damn, if you're the kind of person who thinks high of Japanese parts, and come to find out that they aren't really "JDM", that's got to stink.

 
Rep Power: 0

It could vary on how much preload you have. No one really needs more than 1 inch of preload, and that can't drastically change the height of the car. Most people are running 3/4 of an inch.

 
Rep Power: 326

So basically screw the rings upward until I start compressing the spring?

 
Rep Power: 368

Yes. When I said I preloaded 3/4", I basically moved the top locknut up until it held the spring in place but no tension. Then I moved it up another 3/4". Then I locked it with the second nut. Since preload is independent of height, I used that locked assembly to turn so I could set the height then lock it down with the 3rd locknut against the lower arm. Apparently one of those has come loose on mine, hence my rattles.

 
Rep Power: 0

At least I am right that there is no play. I don't understand why VNlilMAN has play in his, maybe he needs to have his check also.

Yes the 3rd nut is the bottom one. Hey Telly any suggestion on how to loosen the 3rd nut? I can't even loose it anymore because it is so tight lol

 
Rep Power: 368

LOL, I used a hammer to LIGHTLY tap the wrench on the locknut to tighten. My suggestion would be to use the same technique but have the wrench facing the opposite way.

 
Rep Power: 0

Yeah, you are correct. VNlilMAN said KW and D2 has the same play as well. May he oughta check the tie-rod nut.

I would advise the people who would want to install this to use a new cotter pin

 
Rep Power: 0

Doh i think i hammer it too hard haha!! At least it isn't loose but still make clicking sound sigh sigh!

 
Rep Power: 310

i have my fronts tucked.. wouldn't be much of a problem with minor cutting of the inner fender, butttt... my exhaust piping sits literally 1-2 inches from the ground now.. so i have to raise the front a little.. grrr. i'm gonna drop the back even more though.. lol.

 
Rep Power: 0

hey cocky do you have any noises coming from the hayames v2.? i hear some thud thud kinda loose sounds i looked everything seems to be tight.......just wondering if anyone had that problem too.

 
Rep Power: 0

o hey guys look will you check urban imports pic of the rear camber kit they sent me.(d2). because i couldn't install them for my 01 ex coupe. the installer said the angle bolt on was wrong....i think its for a different civic. let me know.

http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...ghlight=hayame

 
Rep Power: 0

Hey guys, I'm gonna be installing my hayames tomorrow and i had a few questions:
1. How do you know how much to adjust the height? Say i wanted to lower 2 inches in back and 1.7 in front, how would i accomplish that?

2. I'm not familiar with the pre-load settings. If i wanted the most comfortable ride the coilovers could provide, how would I accomplish this?

Thanks a lot.

 
Rep Power: 0

This is for my v1 but I assume to be about the same for v2

After you add pre-load to the springs (mean compress it a bit so it can't move up or down) Give about 5.5cm distance b/t the top of first nut and the top of the third nut. This will give you about 1.7" (thats what I have). On the rear I just lower the strut all the way down, add pre-load (a bit more than front) and you should get about 2" drop. This setting should give you the best comfortable ride. If you find it bouncy you can add more pre-load to make it stiffer = less comfortable but you will love it when you take your first turn in fast speed =D. Just test around and GL!

Oh yea one more thing, once you have the setting you like and you hear clicking from the front. You need to use a hammer and hit the front 3rd nut lightly to lock it tigther.

 
Rep Power: 0

There should be a rubber washer or ring that goes on top of the rear coilover. Did you leave it out? Also check all the locking nuts to make sure they are as tight as you can make them.

If you still have no idea I will take a pix of my hayame when I uninstall it, so you can see the ring.

 
Rep Power: 0

Those rubber washers are called spring isolators.

 
Rep Power: 0

Im surprise Im liking the suspension as the day goes by. But paranoia is still lingering in my head

 
Rep Power: 326

i dont get why every one is talking about using a hammer to lock the rings... I just pulled with the tools they gave me and I haven't had any issues.

 
Rep Power: 0

DACIVIC - Thanks for your help. So the more I tighten the preload, the stiffer the ride? Do I have to have the coilover off of the car to adjust the strut height or is there some other way to do it?

Thanks again...

 
Rep Power: 310

no noises from mine.. just the "Thump" of having such a stiff suspension.. lol. no rattling or anything though.

 
Rep Power: 0

more pre-load = siffer ride. unfotunately, the ride will go higher as you put more pre-load in it.

You dont have to take the strut out to adjust height. This is the whole idea behind coilover design.

I dont get no noise either. Just the stiffness noise