Rep Power: 310

n/m.. i'm hearing it now.. sounds like front passenger side.. kinda like a knocking sound. grrr. i want the sum bitch slammed in the back, and i want no friggin thumps or knocking. i duno what to do to it.

 
Rep Power: 0

We cant do anything about the rear drop. Your only solution is to sell it and get something else.

You cant drop the back more unless you want the springs to be floating, in which Byron (Product Dev't Mgr.) said is unsafe.

SPW is aware about the issue and they might stop ordering the Hayame.

 
Rep Power: 310

what a waste. $650 wasted that could've gone towards me Dezod turbo.. ::sigh::

 
Rep Power: 417

eh the play i was talking about is something else... i was referring to the slotted camber hole

 
Rep Power: 417

like i said, if it was unsafe, D2, KW, Tein and any other coilover company that doesnt use the 3rd locknut should be recalled.
It really isnt too much of a safety issue than it is a comfort issue
the "floating" will be minimal anyways, only 1" max... the "floating" on ground control is like 2-3" and I have yet to hear of anyone having any safety issue's because of it. while driving, you really arent going to have any problems with it moving around. its just when you jack up the car its possible for it to not align right but most of the time is should

 
Rep Power: 310

good, then i will drop it more. =)

 
Rep Power: 0

jeremy the ride sucks enough as is why make it worse =\ i f'n hate coilovers the ride is retched

 
Rep Power: 0

I really wanted to believe you that spring floating is normal, but it came from the Product Development Manager himself that it shouldnt float or it becomes a safety issue.

You mean the GC springs floats up and down the strut? How can a GC sleeve-over float anyway?!

Im not sure if we are talking about the same thing when I say "spring float." Byron's definition is when the springs move freely up and down the strut. You hit a bump and you hear a "thud" from the springs moving freely.

Cocky, Yes the ride sucks already without pre-load and you wanted to have the springs floating. Goodluck and we'll be here waiting for your input and or complaints

 
Rep Power: 310

i don't give a **** about the ride, i want it to look good. the ride has sucked since i got the Eibach Sportlines and 17" wheels..

 
Rep Power: 0

Well then by all means, tucked it in and drop it as you would like it.

 
Rep Power: 326

i have to raise mine cuz my 3" randomly hits my control arm...

doing a little preload in the morning lol...

 
Rep Power: 0

The car will handle like **** if the spring floats. If the struts bottom out on Hayame's it's going to feel worse than Eibachs because the springs are stiffer.

 
Rep Power: 0

And he said.

then I said in return:

 
Rep Power: 0

i really like mine alot they ride great for me

 
Rep Power: 0

Do you like your ride while your spring floats?

 
Rep Power: 417

Yes we're talking about the same thing this time. when its on the car thats flat on the ground it really isnt going to move freely.. trust me. It would mean you'd have to hit a pretty nasty dip going really fast. the "thud" you hear isnt even from the springs but its the struts bottoming out because your compressing the strut(rather than shortening it).

 
Rep Power: 0

Remember the first time my Civic was supposedly tucked? I wasnt even going 40mph when I hit a little bump and I can hear the springs 'clank' and not just 'thud' sound of a stiff suspension.

 
Rep Power: 417

yeah it can clank but also does any lowering spring such as neuspeed race or eibach sportlines. It doesnt mean that its "floating". loose maybe, but "floating", i doubt it. Even if it does float, the springs really have no where to go but to sit back in its original spot.

 
Rep Power: 0

lol, but that's with those soft eibachs. I know how a shitty ride feels. It's just that I think if you want your car slammed, and don't care about the ride, get Ground Controls. Why buy a full coilover set-up just to sacrifice ride quality for looks you can get with a cheaper set-up?

And as for the rear, the only thing you can do is get a tire size equivalent to a 185/65-15 for whatever size wheel you're running (i.e. 215/45-17). Otherwise, get something else because the rear height is limited to the size tire you're runnin.

 
Rep Power: 0

This is what I think:

Since Version 2 has 8kg front and 10kg rear, wouldnt it be stiff enough even without the pre-load? What spring rate does Version 1 has? 6kg front and 8kg rear? If so, then thats probably why some people would want or say that Hayame only rides better when spring is pre-loaded...they are talking about the Version 1.

I am under the impression that V1 has a different spring rate since SpeedStash.com has the V1 listed as 6KG Front/8KG Rear. Whereas, V2 is listed at 8kg/10kg from hayame website.

Am I wrong again?

 
Rep Power: 368

From the first time I saw the Hayames listed on www.hayameperformance.com way back when I was considering getting the V1's, they have always been listed at 8/10 kg. Perhaps Speedstash had simply mistakenly quoted another application's specs.

 
Rep Power: 0

Alrighty. I will try to take the pre-load out on the rear for more drop and see how it rides. I may screw it up and I cant afford to have a worst suspension on my drive to San Diego.

 
Rep Power: 0

The V2s are not 8kg/10kg. They feel softer than the V1s. The V1s were 6kg/8kg front, and from my experience, if anything is making the V2s more comfortable, it's the valving. The V1s use the same front springs as the V2s as they share the same model #. From my driving experience, they are the same spring rate. But not 8kg/10kg. The 6kg/8kg came from UrbanImport's website. The Hayames have always shared the same spring rate as the Tein SS and B+G coilovers, as well as one version of KW's set-up.

 
Rep Power: 0

If SpeedStash made a mistake on spring rate, would Hayame Performance make the same mistake?

From Hayameperformance.com

Also, if you look at the number on the springs, the last two digits denotes the spring rate. My rear reads .010 which mean that I have 10kg rear spring rate.

Reading Spring Part Numbers:
For Example: 0700.250.006
0700=7 inches length 250=2.5 inches diameter 006=6kg

Could it be the valving on V2 that is different? Which makes the V2 feels better than V1? I dont know. All I know is tha I have an 8kg/10kg spring rate.

 
Rep Power: 0

dont know, mine arent like that

 
Rep Power: 0

What do you mean that? Not like 8kg/10kg?

 
Rep Power: 368

Well, returning to the clicking noise issue - I was having that problem where every small bump I hit, my front passenger corner would make a clicking noise. I have finally fixed the problem.
As soon as I got my car back today I drove to the edge of the garage, because my drop no longer allows me to put my car up with a regular jack. Since the driveway is a little over an inch lower than the garage floor, I was able to slide a jack under, put er up, and put a jackstand in there. I removed the front passenger wheel and checked all my locknuts and top bolts - all solid. I scratched my head for all of 2 minutes, mainly cause the heat made my scalp itchy, but also in puzzlement. Then I remembered I'd posted on here what I had to check. So I took a quick picture of the current settings with my camera phone, set it aside, then undid the top two locknuts on the strut body. Once the spring was loose, I checked up top - a HA, it wasn't centered up top (where it meets the hat) and the rubber ring up there was half on and half off the top of the spring. So I held the spring and rubber ring (isolator?) in place with my left hand as I used my right hand to hand-tighten the top nut/perch. When it got too tough to move, I used the spanner wrench to tighten it further, referring repeatedly to my camera phone. I checked again that the spring and isolator were centered, then locked up using the middle locknut. I used a hammer to tap the wrench so the locknut was on there nice and tight, referred again to my camera phone to make sure the number of threads showing was the same as before, and on went the wheel. I lowered the car again, and I drove it about 150km today - not a single rattle or click. FANTASTIC. Forgive my rambling, it's 4:30 am and I can't even see straight.

Quick summary: If you've got everything tight and still have rattles, reseat the spring and make sure it and the rubber isolator thingy are both centered top and bottom on the perch and up top (hat).

Off to bed for TeLLy. Next challenge - getting a rear upper strut bar back on those short-a$$ strut bolts. I may end up getting a different one. Booo...

 
Rep Power: 0

Hey guys, I finally had chance to get the car up off the ground today and I noticed I was having that wiggle that 518 mentioned. I tried tightening the tierod nut and it was still the same. What did you guys torque it to to get it to stop wiggling? Thanks

 
Rep Power: 0

Weird...

Because in the first Hayame thread, the spring rate comparison by vnlilman was like this:

Hayame: 335/447
tein basic: 336/448
tein ss: 336/448
KW 2: 350/500


Which are all 6kg/8kg springs but maybe there was an error? I will look into this by looking up the #s on my old set-up. Thanks for the info.

I specifically remember the RSX set-up was the 8kg/10kg... which sounds more realistic given the weight difference of that car and ours.

 
Rep Power: 0

SedanBoy, use a small airgun to tighten that nut. I could not find any torque specs on those and my mechanic just used the airgun to make sure it was tight, will not wiggle tight.

Also, I believe that from the factory, they were only hand tight. There was no reason to really tighten it since the tie-rod end is sitting on the top. By having the tie-rod end on the top, it puts constant pressure to the arm. The probability of the nut getting loose is lower than having the tie-rod end inserted from the bottom

Now, since the tie-rod end is inserted from the bottom, there will be no pressure for the arm. Therefore, tighten that as much as you can. Use a new cotter pin. The cotter pin should be bent over the top of the bolt for more security and not like how Honda factory bent it.

Slammed, how did VNlilMan measured the spring rate?

On the side note, I drove 200 freeway miles and I didnt hear any complain from my passenger. I dont have any complain either, I am loving the stiff ride but we dont really bounce so much at all.