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It is a pain to do with the engine in the car. I remember having to lower the driver side of the engine quite a ways before I could get a drill in through the wheel well.
Yeah , I was looking at the space and angle , with the PS alt and driver side engine mount off now and it's not looking too good. How far can I drop that block ? Will it move back towards the firewall at all?
Man I was pissed off yesterday. I had everything perfect and then to go and torque that damn bolt and have it give the buttery like spin was a gut punch.
Oh damn, it is covered by that fenderwell. I forgot (until I looked at google images) that you really only have directly line of sight access to the crank pulley bolt from the wheel well.
shorty drill bit with a ¼" shank and a socket wrench? I'm pulling ideas out of my *** at this point.
I may have had to lower the subframe as well, I cannot remember. You can definitely get it low enough to gain access with a drill, I've done it myself.
I
I was thinking about getting this to make life easier. 2.6lb and the head is only 2.5" deep. I'll have to measure that gap.
The big issue I am having is not having a garage to work out of. Currently I have to load all my tools into my trunk back down the side of my house to the concrete patio this bag of bolts is parked on. So everything gets jumbled up every time I need to stop.
Last edited by usecom; May 19, 2023 at 12:41 PM.
Reason: Something else to say
I have exactly 2.5 " between the bolt head and the fender well. The bolt head needs to drop another 5"
I am not sure if the transmission and suspension will drop that far.
I have exactly 2.5 " between the bolt head and the fender well. The bolt head needs to drop another 5"
I am not sure if the transmission and suspension will drop that far.
So a small update is that the ac compressor and support bracket are now holding the engine up on the frame rail. Ac works and I don't want to have to evac and recharge and dangle my right foot left. How much flex does that ac tube have? I have finally found a short spanked drill bit at 13/32 that should be hard enuf to get thru the old threading. The tap is relatively short and I have just enuf room for it and my handle. I found some magnetic levels that will keep me plumb. That drill bit though $24.89 + tax
Update sorta, drilled and tapped and torqued and oil or water did not pour out so I guess that's a good thing. I did however preemptively pull the pin and forgot to attach the spring b4 I did my 2 rotations. SonI took the tensioner off and have reset the pin. Any thing else I need to do? Virgin sacrifice ? Become blood Brothers with Harahito? Or can I just hand tighten the bolt ,belt up ?
edit: I guess I should give actual advice. I preemptively took the pin out before, too. Reinstall pin, go through the motions of sitting and rotating and what have you, Bolt 'er up and cross your fingers
edit: I guess I should give actual advice. I preemptively took the pin out before, too. Reinstall pin, go through the motions of sitting and rotating and what have you, Bolt 'er up and cross your fingers
well the thread repair held. Went thru the 12 step program ,quit drinking, today, and all is well. I had a few bolts that go to the drivers side engine mount and accessories brackets and I am hondapartsnow 'd out.can someone point me to the correct sub directory? I just want them to find their happy places! Should or do I need to install the engine mount first then the cover? That plastic lip is stiff AF
I answered myself on the camshaft cover issue.
Looks like on parts direct #23 10 mm? No way. On the starter yes not this bracket though. Also this diagram is missing 2 of the 5 bolts. I remember them being all different lengths but all 14mm heads.
After trying all 3 lengths in the different holes I can't seem to get the correct length for any but 1 and 3 of the holes in the block feel like they are starting to strip.
Last edited by usecom; May 27, 2023 at 04:44 PM.
Reason: Something else to say
So the good news is the thread repair kit that I bought is the same thread as the tensioner bolt. So I don't have to buy anything else! I do need to know with certainty which bolts go where. There are 3 different lengths I believe for the engine mount / alternator bracket / power steering pump bracket.
So I figured out I had cleared cookies and reentered 2015 instead of 2005. Still have 1 question on #10 of diagram. Is that the bottom bolt for the engine mount? https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuin...0-pg7-000.html
#29 indicates x2 10x60/ #10 is a 12x65
this is more confusing.
# 21, 22, and 27 on the diagram refer to those 5 bolts I drew on
#21, P/N 95701-10030-00 "Bolt, Flange (10x30)" Part name says they're 10x30 bolts (m10 threads, 30mm length) -- For clarity, I spell things out like this for the sake of future lurkers that don't know how to translate part names and stuff. I know full well that you know what you're doing, or at least pretend really, really well.
moving on from there,
#22, P/N 95701-10035-08, "Bolt, Flange (10X35)" -- M10x35
#27, P/N 95801-10060-08, "Bolt, Flange (10X60)" -- M10x60
Look close enough, you can see on the diagram where #22 and #27 point to multiple spots. #22, both spots are horizontally aligned. #27, two spots are vertically aligned
#10 is an engine to transmission bolt. You didn't remove it.
I didn't ? LOL * no, I didn't.
So, as far as start up with assembly lube on cam and mating surfaces as well as the valve stems. I am using a cheap? synthetic 5w/30 then I will let it cool off , or stop melting, then drain. What oil does this beast of burden need with 168000 hard miles? I use Royal Purple in my CHEVY but I have no exp with
Japanese imports. What say you ?
@ xRiCeBoYx thanks for the clarity. Leave no stone unturned. I am used to old Chevy's which have 3 bolts that hold 90% of the engine and it's assorted parts together.
I have 0 exp on any import stuff other than a 86 Lotus Esprit. Honda has great technology but it just seems overdone for a grocery getter.
I did come up with a full blown service manual for a 2003 civic where can I post it so our brothers can access it? It's quite large as pdf, 28.1MB, so I don't know how much in differences there are between years but it seems to be a generational thing with Honda.
For real though, that bolt, I'm convinced, is set up so it can never fully vibrate itself loose and disappear on the road. You can unscrew and pull it out enough to be able to remove the alternator.
What I've done in the past is leave that bolt on the bracket as an assembly. If you needed to remove the bolt (to chase the threads or otherwise clean up the bolt threads or something), install it (sans alternator) into the bracket before installation onto the block. Luckily, there aren't any gaskets there or other pain in the *** install ***** in that area (other than the 2 tight bolts on the outboard side), so removal of that bracket then reinstall shouldn't be terrible. It'll backtrack you like 10-15 minutes.
as far as that manual goes, holy ****, that may be some gold you got there. Looks like it's not for the D17 though, since it says 02-03 hatch which has a 2.0L DOHC i-VTEC engine, as opposed to the 1.7L SOHC engine you're working with. Gold nonetheless for those with EP3 hatches. @sdaidoji , whatcha think? Find a thread in the DIY subforum and have him upload as a PDF (if that's possible)?
@usecom to give you insight into the differences in trims:
Sedans (ES1 chassis) and coupes (EM2 chassis) all had these major trims: DX/LX and EX. The DX/LX both had the D17A1 1.7L SOHC non-VTEC engine. The EX had the D17A2 1.7L SOHC VTEC engine. Both came in AT or 5-speed MT flavors. Along with the engine differences, DX had no bells and whistles, LX had some bells and whistles, and EX was fully decked out, as far as copes and sedans went. They had some "mid-level" trims like the VP (value package) and "Special Edition" which were just.. slightly dressed up versions of the other trims. I'm not sure what the exact differences were, though. There were some other differences that happened in 2003 (mostly aesthetic, but one marginal difference in suspension), and a facelift in 2004, but that's really it.
The hatchback (EP3 chassis) only came in the Si trim and had the K20A3 2.0L DOHC i-VTEC engine, same engine as the base model Acura RSX, and only came in the 6-speed manual
Last edited by xRiCeBoYx; May 30, 2023 at 12:17 PM.
huuunh...
I am not aware of file sharing services that work good anymore... and he would need to setup that file as open to all
28MB is too big for attachment...
I can test the file upload thing when I get home with the 10thgen service manual. I know I linked it before in the 10thgen sub, but it might be good to locally host in case that download link dies
