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I have my niece's Civic and it has been bought post auction by her parents. Missing lots of fasteners poor oil control to none ; like a partial cap on the camshaft. Melted timing belt covers. No valvecover gasket. Stripped bolt heads on the water pump. Currently at 168000 miles. Front crank seal had gasket seal around it. My 1 st question is there a exploded diagram with all the nuts ,bolts listed for the engine ; primarily on the front of the engine and drivers side ,US.
I have removed the cylinder head the intake the fuel injectors rail and all of the accessories as well as the egr thermostat housing off the block. The camshaft is straight as well as the cylinder head within .0002 My latest issue is replacing the water pump. The 4 bolts ,10mm by 3cm and 1 shorter one have heavily rounded heads , I had to remove 3 with vise grips ; someone had tried to remedy a leak with no gasket and lots of torque. What are the PN#'S FOR the bolts? Where does the shorty go? I might leave it there it looks kinda cool 1 cylinder valve surface done Fuel injector runner plate? Melted and only 1 bolt holding on the 2 lower cam covers Is there supposed to be 2 or 4 dowels?
"Marge, anyone could miss Canada! All tucked away down there."
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 9,629
Likes: 1,282
From: Barrie, ON Canada
Rep Power: 221
Re: Trying to get things sorted.
Sites like hondapartsnow.com have all the exploded diagrams. If it melted the timing covers that engine might be junk from overheating. Use oem parts for the heat gasket + timing belt etc.
This engine surely had a bad head gasket that was ignored for a while. I hope none of the rod bearings started to fail.
Originally Posted by usecom
What are the PN#'S FOR the bolts?
95701-06022-08 (6x22)
95801-06030-08 (6x30)
Originally Posted by usecom
Where does the shorty go?
For the water pump there are three 30mm and one 22mm bolts. The 22mm bolt goes on the top towards the firewall. If you're staring at the pump from the driver's side of the car, top right. Should be easy to tell where it goes based on the pump's design.
Originally Posted by usecom
Fuel injector runner plate?
EGR runners. Clean all that gunk out or you may have misfires in the future.
Originally Posted by usecom
Melted and only 1 bolt holding on the 2 lower cam covers
I've never seen a lower timing cover that wasn't broken, except the new one I purchased to replace a broken one.
Alright alright alright. Are the dowels supposed to go ot the top or bottom because there is a total of 4 machined holes.
thread pitch ?
Engine was running well actually except for the overheating and boil over into the overflow tank. Someone had drilled a hole just at the radiator cap level to relieve pressure.
I now identify as black from all the carbon deposits from the egr related issues.
I found the Honda Parts diagrams somewhat useful but just for single parts as the #1 part in this diagram refers to this part. I need a grocery list.
Felpro gasket kit comes with a ton of o rings. Are 4 of those for the fuel injectors? I have cleaned the intake replaced gaskets etc Valve cover same including the spark tubes. Cylinder head intake and exhaust ports are nice and shiny. New radiator new thermostat new water pump. Cleaned the fuel injectors but the existing o rings look dry. Replaced the front crank seal cam seal and the cap that goes on the back. It was broken and filled with gasket sealer. No bearings on the cam? Engine had a good quart of oil on the top half of the engine. What oil should I use to do a first start or just the assembly lube enough?
the reservoir filling up is all the evidence you need, it is blown.
the black ring is what is supposed to be sealing the gasket...
from description, you will also need to have machine shop take care of head evenness
"Marge, anyone could miss Canada! All tucked away down there."
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 9,629
Likes: 1,282
From: Barrie, ON Canada
Rep Power: 221
Re: Trying to get things sorted.
Originally Posted by usecom
Engine was running well actually except for the overheating and boil over into the overflow tank. Someone had drilled a hole just at the radiator cap level to relieve pressure.
that block is probably screwed, head most likely needs to be machined
that block is probably screwed, head most likely needs to be machined
Everything was within specs clearance wise. Did the criss cross with a machinist straight edge and couldn't find anywhere where there was more than .0002 and I checked the block as well. Pistons didn't look bad and the valves do as well.
The metal pipe that goes into the back of the EGR/THERMOSTAT housing that bolts to the side of the head on passenger side ; that pipe has a o ring. Can I buy that o ring? It's special ,fairly thick and fits really snug in that housing. I believe the other side goes into or out of the heater core.
Sites like hondapartsnow.com have all the exploded diagrams.
We'll help you look up parts, but I want to make sure you know how to do it yourself. As Colin previously stated, there are parts diagrams available online from multiple different sites. The part number is 91314-634-000, 21 in the picture.
What did u enter in search to bring that image up ? I spent 2 hrs searching that site at home after spending another hr at Orielys doin the same thing. Regardless , I appreciate the direction! Thanks!
Enter your vehicle info then click find my parts. I used 2004 Civic EX coupe with an auto transmission because I already had it loaded from a few days ago and '01-05 are all identical in this regard. You then have different categories to chose from.
After choosing a section, you are then given parts diagrams to look through. For example, under engine these are the first few options. Clicking on one will show a parts diagram for those items.
Example, this is under the camshaft - timing belt.
For your seal I first looked through the electrical/exhaust/heater/fuel section. I thought there was a water hose diagram, I was incorrect. The closest thing was for the heater core. I then moved on to the engine section. I first went to the water hose diagram.
Close. It shows the water pipe but does not specify the seal. Next, I checked the water pump section as this seal is on the water pump side.
Bingo. Reference number 21. Either clicking on the "21" or searching below the diagram will show you the part number.
These part diagram sites do take some playing around to get proficient. It also helps to have a very good understanding of the car you're working on. Personally, I have done plenty of timing belts, head gaskets, tear downs, rebuilds, etc. on this exact engine so I knew what you were talking about and where to look. Took me all of 2 minutes to find.
With a seal that's dried and been corroded for 20 years, a lot. Spray some penetrating oil and let it sit. Wiggle it around a bit to help the oil. When you go to put the new one in, spray on some WD-40 and it will go in easy.
Timing cover bolts ; dealer said there is supposed to be 8 , 7 x1 + 1x1 @ $10 a pc. Is there anything else that will replace the shank screw that is OEM? It's just a dust cover but it does have seals that I am assuming keeps water out. I only have 2. I am at the trying to save $ at this point because my niece is baulking
at spending anymore $ so far and I have put about $300 of my own cash. Look I found my own schematic!
With a seal that's dried and been corroded for 20 years, a lot. Spray some penetrating oil and let it sit. Wiggle it around a bit to help the oil. When you go to put the new one in, spray on some WD-40 and it will go in easy.
AND! AND! remove the 10mm bolt from the hidden bracket that stops and lateral movement up until the point the bracket fatigue's to reveal the the damn bracket! I will never ever work on another Honda as long as I live. I am 60 now and I guess I just dont see like I used to but this is like the 6th bolt that absolutely blind . ps WTH is this plate on the back of the block,drivers side, because it had oil laying on the shelf above it ,possibly from the vtec solenoid leaks running along the heat tube; just out of caution I decided to ask you guys because it on has rtv gasket seal on it.
With a seal that's dried and been corroded for 20 years, a lot. Spray some penetrating oil and let it sit. Wiggle it around a bit to help the oil. When you go to put the new one in, spray on some WD-40 and it will go in easy.
AND......AND remove the 10mm bolt and hidden bracket that stops any lateral movement up to the point where it bends to divulge itself! I will never ever work on another Honda as long as live. I'm 60 now and I guess I just don't see like I used to but this is like the 6th
fastener that is just blind. PS wth is this plate on the back of the block ,drivers side, because it had oil laying on the shelf above it , possibly from the vtec solenoid running along the heat tube , but just out of caution I decided to ask you guys!
Diagram does show the bracket/bolt, I assumed you had that removed. I'll be honest though, any transverse FWD layout is a pain to work on. However, I much prefer these Honda's to the Subaru boxer I removed once. That was even longitude mount but was miserable.
The plate in your picture is the oil/air separator with the PCV and vacuum line off of it. If there was oil sitting on top you should be looking at the valve cover gasket, likely. Maybe the camshaft plug behind the camshaft pulley, but not as likely.
As far as the intake manifold ; is there any harm in filling it with degreaser? I plan on using a nylon brush and about my 50th can of carb cleaner down each port but I don't want to damage a $600 part. Obviously I am going to remove the throttle body to do this. I even thought about drilling a hole in the bottom of the box. There
doesn't seem to be anyway to take it apart ,blow molded, but I am guessing there is a ton of oil in the bottom of it.
Ok I made a stupid with the resonator. So now faced with 3 or 4 brackets that need to find their happy places. I dont have the valve cover in front of me and weather is closing in again. So if they are valve cover related just say valve cover. Thanks!
As far as the intake manifold ; is there any harm in filling it with degreaser? I plan on using a nylon brush and about my 50th can of carb cleaner down each port but I don't want to damage a $600 part. Obviously I am going to remove the throttle body to do this. I even thought about drilling a hole in the bottom of the box. There
doesn't seem to be anyway to take it apart ,blow molded, but I am guessing there is a ton of oil in the bottom of it.
I don't understand what you're trying to do here. Why do you want to fill it with degreaser? Just leave it alone.
Originally Posted by usecom
Ok I made a stupid with the resonator. So now faced with 3 or 4 brackets that need to find their happy places.
Top is part of the resonator box.
Second from the top is A/C line to P/S pump bracket. Uses the hole circled below. Parts diagram picture doesn't help at all.
Third from the top is a mount bracket for the air cleaner. Bolts somewhere on the back of the head, transmission side.
The resonator had motor oil in it. Like a lot. It was like syrup. It's clean now. You should see my search history looking for those brackets. I guess I can quit drinking ? I appreciate the response "Bro" now if I can get the weather to quit playing games. Huge influx of gulf moisture 98% humidity and 80° on a fat old man is not kind.
I did find a workaround to the issue of the intake manifold bolt on the passenger side. I'll see if I can get some pics of how I did it.
I felt that picture in my soul. Honestly though, the D17 is really easy to work on once you've torn it apart a few times. Tight spots to fit hands in? Abso-f'in-lutely. As easy to work on as a car with far fewer electronics? Not a chance. I'm not really selling my case very well, but it's still a fairly easy engine to work on.
But yeah, the exploded diagrams on hondaautomotiveparts.com is a godsend. Can be tough to find what you need, but if you have a part number for something in the relative area (or able to google a part number), pop that part number into the search box and you should be able to find the diagram you need fairly quickly.
