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It mounts onto the head. Look at the picture I posted earlier for the orientation.
At 5:12 in this video he is putting a rubber bushing into the threaded hole on this bracket. Maybe that will help you understand where it is and how it mounts. Can't really see much else.
I felt that picture in my soul. Honestly though, the D17 is really easy to work on once you've torn it apart a few times. Tight spots to fit hands in? Abso-f'in-lutely. As easy to work on as a car with far fewer electronics? Not a chance. I'm not really selling my case very well, but it's still a fairly easy engine to work on.
But yeah, the exploded diagrams on hondaautomotiveparts.com is a godsend. Can be tough to find what you need, but if you have a part number for something in the relative area (or able to google a part number), pop that part number into the search box and you should be able to find the diagram you need fairly quickly.
It mounts onto the head. Look at the picture I posted earlier for the orientation.
At 5:12 in this video he is putting a rubber bushing into the threaded hole on this bracket. Maybe that will help you understand where it is and how it mounts. Can't really see much else.
****! On top just above the water pump pipe. I took it off trying to get the pipe out and forgot to put it back. Bets on if I have to remove the intake to get it back on?
I don't even know what bracket you're having issues with anymore. The schematic you show isn't for any of the four original brackets. I have no idea what you posted a picture of after that.
The last picture does look like the oil pressure switch. The knock sensor is back there somewhere too.
I don't even know what bracket you're having issues with anymore. The schematic you show isn't for any of the four original brackets. I have no idea what you posted a picture of after that.
The last picture does look like the oil pressure switch. The knock sensor is back there somewhere too.
LOL I feel like a rabbit in a blender. That bracket is a heat shield for the ac compressor. The ground strap coming off the harness is my latest blunder because to get to where it bolts into I have to remove the intake manifold.
LOL I feel like a rabbit in a blender. That bracket is a heat shield for the ac compressor. The ground strap coming off the harness is my latest blunder because to get to where it bolts into I have to remove the intake manifold.
So, lucky for you, there's another dude's headgasket change thread that's active right now, and I've been using his pics to cross reference yours (particularly this post for that big chonky boy that' front/center in your sensor pic, but it looks like you got that bastard bolted in properly). The one that's between your thumb and index finger kinda makes me think that's possibly the TDC sensor, and the rubber grommet attaches to the outside of the upper timing belt cover. The one by your pinky (left most) kinda looks like the CKP sensor that should be down by the sprocket looking summabitch by the crank pulley, the rubber bit filling a square-ish hole and bolts to the block.
I'm 90% sure this is where those go (keep in mind it's been.. at least 4.5 years since I touched a D17?)
Also, I'm freakin loving your constant flipping off the engine.
What you're calling a ground strap is the knock sensor. @xRiCeBoYx is correct about the other two. Between your thumb and index finger is the connector for the camshaft position sensor. By your pinky finger is the crankshaft position sensor. The lump of plastic with a hole in the middle between the two is the knock sensor.
So the timing belt seems too tight. Like 2" short too tight. I haven't pulled the pin on the tensioner yet. The old belt and the new belt is a Gates t312
Instruction manual for the pump belt kit said to not pull the pin until the belt is on and to leave the attatchement bolt loose then turn the crank 2 turns counter clockwise;I guess until the marks realign. Any thoughts?
OK ! I did remove the spring and got the belt on with no issues. Now there is no tension in the tensioner. How many turns is 2? 2 full 360 deg back to the oil pump aline marks then pull the pin to the Holy Grenade from Antioch?
OK ! I did remove the spring and got the belt on with no issues. Now there is no tension in the tensioner. How many turns is 2? 2 full 360 deg back to the oil pump aline marks then pull the pin to the Holy Grenade from Antioch?
Spring is left off until after the belt is on. These should be the basically the same instructions as what you have.
-Install spring onto tensioner.
-Install tensioner onto block (leave spring off block). Torque bolt to 7.2 lb ft, then loosen 180 degrees.
-Install timing belt.
-Connect tensioner spring to the block.
-Rotate crankshaft pulley 2 rotations counter clockwise.
-Tighten tensioner bolt to 33 lb ft.
-Pull grenade pin.
Spring is left off until after the belt is on. These should be the basically the same instructions as what you have.
-Install spring onto tensioner.
-Install tensioner onto block (leave spring off block). Torque bolt to 7.2 lb ft, then loosen 180 degrees.
-Install timing belt.
-Connect tensioner spring to the block.
-Rotate crankshaft pulley 2 rotations counter clockwise.
-Tighten tensioner bolt to 33 lb ft.
-Pull grenade pin.
will my marks line up at the cam? I am about almost 2 teeth off after 2 full revs at the crank. Cam turns 4 times to 2 @ crank. ?
I am using the oil pump marker as a refrence on crank. Should I just use the crank key?
Last edited by usecom; May 18, 2023 at 12:15 PM.
Reason: Added info
the old tap in the block stripped. Bolt just turned and turned. I pulled it out and it had some shavings on the bolt not from the bolt. I am going to try 30 ft lb with a washer. I have a feeling it's not even going to come close. 😕
It is a pain to do with the engine in the car. I remember having to lower the driver side of the engine quite a ways before I could get a drill in through the wheel well.
