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Fuel rail can definitely be preinstalled. It's also easy enough to install with the head mounted on the block. However, the more you can install on the back end of the block in one piece, the better. That backside is tight (heh... heh heh.... yeah, I'm a 22 year old at heart)
DAYS 8 & 9
1. Prepare the cylinder head for installation
- install used camshaft, install rocker assembly and cam gear, adjust valve clearances, install I.M. and fuel rail, install brackets and hoses
Everything went together pretty well. The spec for the I.M. fasteners is 16 ft-lbs but I stopped far before that. It seemed like I was going to crack the plastic. I may have only tightened to 10 ft-lbs or so.
I found the replacing of the black o-rings on the fuel injectors to be completely unnecessary. I did it, but they were a real PITA to get out and they were in like new condition at 154K miles. The lower orange o-rings were a bit dirty, but still in good shape. Unless there's a problem, I wouldn't recommend to anyone replacing the fuel injector o-rings.
Assembly lube on camshaft
RTV on end cap
RTV on end cap
Rocker assembly installed
RTV sealant on inner lip of cam plug (redundant seal)
Cam plug installed
Cam seal installed
Ready for installation
Last edited by bachands; May 16, 2021 at 09:21 AM.
DAY 10
1. Install cylinder head
2. Begin re-assembly
Luckily my buddy was available to help me install the cylinder head. It would have been a lot more difficult and awkward on my own.
All the head bolts torqued smoothly except one. Instead of backing it off I just "muscled" through it. I probably didn't apply enough oil to the bolt head/lip.
Everything else went together without much trouble. I did notice that even the OEM valve cover gasket likes to slip out of the groove during installation. I believe that's what happened with the Mahle one I previously installed. I think it slipped out of the groove on the driver's side and that's where a lot of the oil leakage was coming from. This time I put just a dab of RTV in the groove at each corner of the half circles. I think it helped keep the gasket in place.
I am almost ready to fire it up, but I wanted the RTV on the valve cover gasket to fully cure.
Block cleaned best I could get it
Honda head gasket
Cylinder head installed
Engine back together
Last edited by bachands; May 16, 2021 at 09:21 AM.
I have just a few things to button up. By then the RTV should be fully cured. But today's the day!
DAY 11
1. Move hose clamp for PCV valve into place
- I couldn't reach it from the top
2. Connect the electrical connector for the oil pressure switch
- couldn't reach that from the top either
3. Install gear selector cable, covers, and stiffener brackets
- I never got to that
4. Install I.M. lower brackets
5. Install exhaust downpipe to manifold and connect the O2 sensors
6. Drain and fill trans fluid
- hopefully 3 full quarts will replenish what I lost with radiator replacement
7. Prime oil system and fuel rail
8. Fire it up! Fill and bleed cooling system
9. Re-install headlight, bumper, and wheels
Let you know how it goes!
Last edited by bachands; May 16, 2021 at 09:22 AM.
Fired it up! It's running great so far! I've got about 50 miles in...
Just like the last time when I did the oil pump o-ring, it took about 15-20 seconds for the oil light to go out while priming the oil pump/system. It kinda concerns me when it takes that long. I added about 4 quarts total.
When I first started it I got 3 codes:
1. Front O2 sensor error
2. Knock sensor fault
3. IAT sensor circuit voltage high
The first code came up because I forgot to connect the front O2 sensor connector. Easy fix. The other two are sort of a mystery. But I erased all the codes and none of them have come back. Maybe the ECM was adjusting to everything I suppose.
It took a while to purge all the air from the cooling system. The cooling fan was not coming on until the system was bled and completely topped off. Then it kicked on around 212 degF I believe. Heat is working great and the temp gauge needle appears to be holding much more steady than before...just below 1/2.
The steering is MUCH tighter now with the new tie rod ends. I'm going to have to get used to it since the steering wheel does not always want to straighten completely after a turn. It feels like it has memory steer just a little bit. I'll monitor the change over the next few weeks.
Lastly, I heard an audible ticking near the I.M. that I didn't hear before. At first I thought one of the injectors was leaking, but then I remembered the car has been sitting for over 2 weeks. So the EVAP purge solenoid was working as it purged all the gas fumes from the canister. It should be done purging after driving it around for a while now.
NOTE:
I tried uploading a pic of the crank pulley spinning, but it wasn't working. You'll just have to take my word for it that it's running well.
If I include the cost of gas while having to drive a truck around (avg 16 mpg), then the total cost is over a grand. Maybe I can sell the used cylinder head and get some $ back.
On a positive note, I'm 200 miles in and all is well. I've been "givin her the beans" now and then with no issues. I haven't noticed any leaking either. I'll continue to monitor everything throughout the next few months.
UPDATE
It's been about a month and over 1K miles. The engine runs and sounds pretty well and I haven't noticed any fluid leakage. I am really happy to have a clean, dry engine so far.
However:
The engine is vibrating at idle. It is a moderate vibration...not violent, but very noticeable. Additionally, I am hearing a light scraping sound at higher RPM. It may also be some sort of vacuum leak that sounds like metal scraping. NO CODES.
The only things I can think of as possible causes of these issues are bad spark plugs (new Denso Iridium) or exhaust backpressure. The engine felt a bit lacking in power and bogged down before this job, and it still feels that way. The engine vibration, on the other hand, is a new symptom.
It's been about 6 months since I completed this job. I changed the oil again a few weeks ago and couldn't find any oil leakage anywhere. A great sight to see
However:
The engine is vibrating at idle. It is a moderate vibration...not violent, but very noticeable. Additionally, I am hearing a light scraping sound at higher RPM. It may also be some sort of vacuum leak that sounds like metal scraping. NO CODES.
The only things I can think of as possible causes of these issues are bad spark plugs (new Denso Iridium) or exhaust backpressure. The engine felt a bit lacking in power and bogged down before this job, and it still feels that way. The engine vibration, on the other hand, is a new symptom.
I think I finally solved the "metal scraping" mystery!! It wasn't metal "scraping" but rather metal parts vibrating at high frequency and contacting each together. What was it? It was the bracket that holds the air box in place. It rests directly behind the valve cover and sort of underneath the fuel injector wiring harnesses. It is held down by two bolts that, I believe, thread into the cylinder head (or close to it at least).
What was the problem? The bolts were gone. I must have installed them loosely by hand and forgot to come back to tighten them with my ratchet. They both vibrated their way out over the last 2 years, so the bracket was just sort of laying in there vibrating against the cylinder head. I managed to find one bolt laying in a valley, but the other one was long gone I assume. So I installed the 2 bolts and tightened them down good this time.
A short test drive confirmed my finding...no more metal "scraping" sound at higher RPMs. I still hear the sort of vacuum leak sound at higher RPMs, but I still don't know what that is. I know I also forgot to tighten a couple of the nuts on the bracket that holds the lower part of the intake manifold. I found that shortly after the work was done. It makes me wonder what else I forgot to do when I put everything back together
However:
The engine is vibrating at idle. It is a moderate vibration...not violent, but very noticeable. Additionally, I am hearing a light scraping sound at higher RPM. It may also be some sort of vacuum leak that sounds like metal scraping. NO CODES.
Just saw this update.. How do the motor mounts look? The front and tranny mounts were notorious for breaking, but kinda hard to see until you took it out. Moreso the tranny mount
Just saw this update.. How do the motor mounts look? The front and tranny mounts were notorious for breaking, but kinda hard to see until you took it out. Moreso the tranny mount
Yeah, I only gave them a general look over. I didn't see anything obvious. I know the upper engine mount is liquid filled, but mine isn't leaking. i didn't see any rubber separation.
I am hesitant to buy new mounts just to rule them out as I would only buy OEM mounts and they are probably expensive (around $300 for both maybe?)
It doesn't take much effort to pull the front/tranny mounts for a closer inspection, at least. Support the oil pan with a jack and block of wood and unbolt them
cheapest option if they are effed, buy some Energy Suspension inserts for $40 and it'll work enough. lol
edit: I didn't know ES sold liquid polyurethane, too, in 3 stiffness levels: 60, 80, and 94 durometer. I personally fixed my 2002's with devcon flexane 80 (back when it was $40 for the kit, now it's $120), and the NVH was very tolerable.
I've never tried inserts before. From what I've read in the past, they typically give a stiffer ride than OEM mounts. They are more for added performance I thought.
But you say there are different stiffness levels? Hmmm, that's kind of interesting. It would probably work for the trans mount, but not the engine mount. The engine mount isn't an insert, so I'd have to purchase that one new anyway. Right?
I don't know ... I'm still not convinced it's the mounts causing the vibration for sure. I'll look into it further at some point.
Admittedly, I went on a tangent, in the case that vibration was due to worn/broken mounts.
As far as the different stiffness levels, it's for their pourable polyurethane rubber. Basically fill the mount with the stuff and it solidifies over anything it's covering. It essentially changes it to a solid motor mount, but, like I said, the NVH wasn't bad when I used an 80 durometer poly to fill my mounts.
