Rep Power: 294

No real problems connecting here Hans.. so I don't know what to tell you.

Do you have a drill Pat - or have access to me? It is really a matter of just taking off a few bolts, drilling one hole on the RSX brackets a bit larger, and then installing everything. Probably be better these days to do it inside - except maybe if the weather goes back to what it was on Saturday.

 
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Quote from another tread on RSX seat:

1. drill motor
2. pick it up.
3. put ina bit
4. look at seat
5. grab driver
6. look at back and right side rail
7. drill hole down to right of hole
8. put in car
9. attach wires
10. look again..
11. line up holes
12. put bolt in
13. tighten bolt
14. tighten fronts
15. wipe sweat off head
16.pull up falling pants
17.walk around car
18. look at other seat
19. from back left hole
20. drill down to left
21. put seat in car
22. line up holes
23. connect wires
24. put in bolt
25. tighten bolt.
26. do front bolts
27. wipe sweat.
28. go to mcdonalds.
29. bring riley doublecheeseburger no onion
30. go back home.
31. lookl at guages
32. notice SRS light
33. scratch head
34. look at computer.
35. search for reset SRS.
36. notice riley told you and gave you link
37. clikc link
38. http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=155251
39. read
40. grab paper clip.
41. open under dash
42. look for yellow thing
43. bend paper clip.
44. go inside print page
45. read page.
46. do whats on page
47. SRS light off.
48. look in back seat
49 notice they dont match.
50. get mad
51. call katzkin
52. ask for 2001 civic rear seats
53. dark charcoal (NOT BLACK)
54. 470$+shipping
55. ask about door inserts
56. 40$
57. pay
58. answr door
59. sign for package
60. remove oem rears.
61. bitch and moan and complain in the 6 hours it takes to do this..
62. make sure to have some zip ties for the brackettes in seat.. instead of buying install kit for 50$
63. pull tight all corners make it look nice
64. install in car
65. take off door panels.
66. cover in epoxy
67. put leather on
68. cut edges.
69. put doors back on.
70.. whew ur done..
71. hopefully it looks good
72. ur welcome

Riley's 72 step diy to having a nice RSX interior

 
Rep Power: 294

Link in that copy/paste is off - as it shortens links.. should be: http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=155251

Or here's another one: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=308198

Though I've tried it.. and well I can't seem to pass the sixth step as well my hands are too big

 
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which lip do you prefer on a 04-05?

Type-R:



or Mugen:



Or Jun:

 
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Typer-R all the way!

Why would i have to reset the airbag after i instal the seats?

 
Rep Power: 294

Not the Mugen - doesn't flow with the current lines of the car in my opinion. The JUN would probably flow better with sideskirts that stick out as well, so I'd lean on Type-R unless you are lipping the rest of the car.

In case you trick a sensor Pat - as others have done. Though if you do everything and ensure it is done, while the chairs are off (and possibly the battery undone), then you shouldn't trip a sensor.

 
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I guess it's when the computer detect that you disconnected your SRS connector under your seat... The SRS light on your dash will go on. I remember reading that if you do it correctly you won't have a SRS light... search, you may find it.

I guess if you disconnect your battery during installation, you won't have problem

You should download the file here: http://www.megaupload.com/?d=KKDZZ12V

It's the repair manual of 2001+ civic!!! It's huge but it's a must for DIY! They explain how to remove seat, SRS, etc... They say to disconnect the battery for at least 3 minutes before removing these connectors...

 
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I'll look for a Type-R then... (this summer...)

I prefered that one too, but I was not sure if it was a huge change from the OEM bumper... but from your comments:

This is a OEM 04-05 bumber (mine )...

It will add just a small touch!

 
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Your OEM 04-05 bumber

Type-R


I think it does a big difference!!! But it's your choice!

 
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I found one for 110$ (new, tx included!) in montreal.

Are you guy looking for a lip also? They are the same price for 01-03.
If we buy 3 lips, it's 100$ each.... come on... I know you want one !!!

They have different models also.

 
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Ok, do they have rear TypeR lips?

 
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He just answered me that he do not... In fact, it's a guy from the CCQ that has good deal on lips....

But you may find it at around 120-130$ in other shop.

 
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I just found one brand new 01-03 TypeR lip for 95$ tx incl!

They have a 99-00 one but is 120$... but in urethane which is more flexible: better for a 04-05!

I might go pick it up... do you want the front 01-03 one?

 
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Cool, after taking time to think... ill keep my money to buy the new suspension... ill need that $100.00

 
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Yeah... you spent a lot on the civic during these last weeks...

I hope Miss Sympaty is not jealous... usually you have to spend equal or more money on the GF than on the car!!!

 
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i know.... but miss Simpaty(aka Angeluna on Hondaground) is going to england and france in may, so mister Simpaty can put a little more on the car this years.... But i wont go crazy, ill try to keep it low budget

 
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Oh I see... when the GF also likes car and modified car you are blessed...

For my wife, a car is made to go from A to B... that's it!

 
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Yes, i'm bless... Every guy would need a girl like her

Plus her dad is Parts Director at Honda, so don't wonder why she likes Honda and TUNNED car

 
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No.... i've killed the topics!!!

 
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we were quiet today....
What do you think of that: http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=245345

A useless performance rod on EP3 typeR?

 
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Sympaty you should start looking for other parts again... this tread is dying without you!!!

 
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LOL.... Too much pressure on me...

What do you think make more difference in handling
1. coil ( must be for ride height / 50% confort )
2. shock (must be for you wheel to stay on the road / 50% confort )

The question is because if i try cannuk coil with either koni or kyb.... could the cannuk srew all the setup if i wahnt some thing a little sporty?

 
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These 2 components work in synergy... both of them should be good.

you are taking some risk with the cannuck... they may be super good or they can be ... According to some searches on the web, people are happy with them. But nobody here or on the CCQ recommand them... you will be the first to test them!

If you want to be 110% sure on your purchase go with the flow! Go with a set-up that people are using (here or on the CCQ). YOu should take Steve springs... eibach pro-kit! You can't go wrong! 1" drop = perfect for a 4 seasons car! He is selling them for not that much more than the cannuck...

My 2 cents!!!

 
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I understood that point....

What is the worst that could happen with no good coil if i do take the guess of buying cannuk? Buncy ride?

 
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Sagging...
Buncy ride...
Uneven drop...
No more "quicky" on the back seat without nausea...

But, I don't think they are bad. In vancouver a lot of Car club use them. I think is just that there name is not made yet over here.

 
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Ill try them anyway.... Anyway, even eibach do sag....

I just need to find the right shock...for a seddan

Plus that 19mm front sway bar you've said ill need with the progress bar....

I feel cheap doing a cool setup with bars and cheap suspension with cannuk and koni/kyb shock.... hope it will be good...

 
Rep Power: 294

stupid car stupid car stupid car


Enough of that .. but still fed up with it. Finally went and got my brakes checked - as I knew they were done. Figured it was my pads for sure and disks. Turns out it was my calipers on top of those
Oh well, its all fixed now and I feel happy with the upgraded disks Though that my caliper painting of the summer is wasted. Perhaps I'll paint them again.

Took off my hubcaps - as I was getting sick of them. Wow does it make a darker appearance for my car Then again, maybe it is my tiredness plus the dark rain

Oh, and I think I've decided not to go with the lip kit nor cf hood.. just too pricey if i want to work on I.C.E. this summer.

 
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Finally, I don't think you will need to change your sway bar... your set-up will be good. Like I said before, drive it first and if you want more understeer, then upgrade the front bar. (BTW, 19mm is a rear RSX bar, you have a 22mm right now, you may want to upgrade to 25.4mm )

The guy who gave me a price for the front grill also have KYB and/or Koni. I will give you his e-mail so you can ask him a quote... the website is working: http://www.directautoimport.com/index.php?&from=home He's working for a distributor of DAI products...

 
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from your first sentence I was thinking you were in a "car crisis" like gearbox!!!!

You upgraded your brake with what? Brembo?

Removing hubcaps... That's the first thing I done on my car when I got it... Maybe I'm ghetto, but I prefer the winter steely style than "Normal-family-car" hubcaps present on all Honda!!!

I.C.E. can be pricey too... do you have an idea of what you will be looking for?

 
Rep Power: 294

No, I had gearbox's situation to the extreme in the summer. I do not exactly want a repeat of that until hopefully after this summer.

KVR slotted (and black plated, but that was useless as the plating was already rubbing off in the bed-in period)

I just put the hubcaps on instinctively for the winter.. than I thought about removing them .. but I was too lazy to jack the car for those things so waited till I went back to the garage - ie today

Yes and no for what I will be looking for in ICE. Leaning on a Pioneer Premier headunit - either a P8MP or a P860MP. As for sub and amp, Probably a 12" - as I like the bassier musics Was leaning on JL stuff but I know one seller that is getting rid of his JL stuff for a reasonable price.. Though at the same time, I have a friend getting rid of his audio set-up (Pioneer P8MP, 2 X 12" JBL 1000 watt sub in box, Pioneer 800watt amp) for 750$ .. Going to try and talk with him about part-out perhaps, as I'm not thrilled with the sub or amps.. But I'll probably grab his upgraded speakers for cheap..