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My KMS P&P head

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Old Jun 26, 2004
  #31  
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Wow nice. I didn't change the timing belt, but the car only has 24k miles. Can running lean cause bad gas mileage? It feels better after adding more fuel with the vafcII. Still needs dyno tune though.
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Old Jun 27, 2004
  #32  
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Originally Posted by gearbox
Wow nice. I didn't change the timing belt, but the car only has 24k miles. Can running lean cause bad gas mileage? It feels better after adding more fuel with the vafcII. Still needs dyno tune though.
What are the setting on your vafc?
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Old Jun 27, 2004
  #33  
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It's the settings wannabfast posted but with all the negative numbers set to zero. Search for the post I made called DH ported head installed. It helped, but I know the settings are still way off. Our setups are totally different.
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Old Jun 27, 2004
  #34  
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Old Jun 27, 2004
  #35  
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I hope I see a good gain from this.
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Old Jun 27, 2004
  #36  
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Just remember that you need more than just the head to make good power. When I ran the head with stock intake, there was almost no difference. Then I added a fipk intake and vafcII fuel and there was a much bigger difference. I bet exhaust would help as well.
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Old Jun 28, 2004
  #37  
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Anybody know how to take the timing belt off?
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Old Jun 29, 2004
  #38  
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for those of you with questions about the port work. a honda head has exceptional flow characteristics. basically all you need is a good five angle valve job and maybe some very minor proting to produce a very good street application and it would seem that this is the case for this kms head. you don't need large ports for an n/a car unless it is full race motor.

by the way i would really like to see some numbers
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Old Jun 29, 2004
  #39  
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Originally Posted by orso
for those of you with questions about the port work. a honda head has exceptional flow characteristics. basically all you need is a good five angle valve job and maybe some very minor proting to produce a very good street application and it would seem that this is the case for this kms head. you don't need large ports for an n/a car unless it is full race motor.

by the way i would really like to see some numbers
The numbers will be up july 10 or 11. The tb will be here in 3 more days.
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Old Jun 30, 2004
  #40  
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Everything will be on saturday. I will let u guys know how it feels without it tune.
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Old Jul 1, 2004
  #41  
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eagerly awaiting the dyno!
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Old Jul 1, 2004
  #42  
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OoOoOo...this should be interesting...pics and results would be very nice as well...
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Old Jul 1, 2004
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will the dyno be before or after being tuned?
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Old Jul 1, 2004
  #44  
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yup i can't what. i hope everything goes well for you.
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Old Jul 1, 2004
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Are you installing everything yourself?
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Old Jul 1, 2004
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Originally Posted by Green Civic
Are you installing everything yourself?
yep. Doing everything myself.
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Old Jul 1, 2004
  #47  
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nice hope u like the gains
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Old Jul 1, 2004
  #48  
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Hey I just played around with the vafcII some more. I'll post my numbers when I get a chance. I didn't add too much fuel because there's no dyno to tell for sure what the mixture is. Feels pretty good for now.
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Old Jul 1, 2004
  #49  
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Originally Posted by gearbox
Hey I just played around with the vafcII some more. I'll post my numbers when I get a chance. I didn't add too much fuel because there's no dyno to tell for sure what the mixture is. Feels pretty good for now.
Did u found out y your car had the rough Idle?
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Old Jul 1, 2004
  #50  
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Nope, not yet. Although, most of the other problems are gone like the rattles and bad starting. The regular ngk v-power plugs work better than the iridiums I used to have. Starts up very nicely with no hesitation. The vafc and fipk really hepls out. Still no exhaust though.

Rough idle can be so many things. Timing may be off, compression, valve out of adjustment. Unfortunately, most of these are gonna be expensive. So I'll probably just drive it for now. Could also be not enough fuel when at idle, but there's no way to adjust that low. Plus you wouldn't want to, cause the ecu sends tons of fuel when the car is first started to help it warm up faster.
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Old Jul 1, 2004
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Did u line up the timing behind th crank pulley?
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Old Jul 1, 2004
  #52  
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I have no idea. The installers did everything so I didn't see. I'm assuming they did what was supposed to be done. I guess I could always take it somewhere and have them measure the timing. Maybe the dealer?

Anyway, I have the vafc settings in a word document. If you want it, give me your e-mail and I'll send it over. They're probably not perfect, and I just made them up to make the curves look nice I guess Didn't add too much fuel because of the stock exhaust. But I think it's pretty good. Gonna have to find a dyno soon.
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Old Jul 1, 2004
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Do u remember them taking the crank pulley off? If they did not that means your timing is off. I know this because I made a copy of the whole timing set up at a honda dealership. Its says u have to set the one thats behind the crank for your timing to be rite. The one on the cam is easy to set.
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Old Jul 1, 2004
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Crap well they left the pulley on. Car still runs okay, but it could still be off. Should I take it to Honda and have them check?
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Old Jul 1, 2004
  #55  
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yes..get honda to fix timing and get a dyno . i wanna see numbers
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Old Jul 1, 2004
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yea u should just to be on the safe side. It might be off just alittle. How do u set the afc? Because everytime I set it the ECU change it back.
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Old Jul 1, 2004
  #57  
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Originally Posted by jrock2324
Do u remember them taking the crank pulley off? If they did not that means your timing is off. I know this because I made a copy of the whole timing set up at a honda dealership. Its says u have to set the one thats behind the crank for your timing to be rite. The one on the cam is easy to set.
sorry buddy, but you do not have to take the crank pulley off to line up correctly with the cam. the crank pulley has a tdc mark on it also. this mark should be lined up with with the pointer off of the oil pump.
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Old Jul 1, 2004
  #58  
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My car is messed up now and running like crap. I tried new settings, then old, then none. I don't know what's going on. I think it may be the plugs I just changed.

Djmota, are you sure about those settings? My car was dying when I turned up the fuel. I'm very confused and frustrated. Can the fuel overlap? Like having + numbers for wide and also + numbers for narrow?
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Old Jul 1, 2004
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Does this look right at all? At first it felt good, but then the car got really loud and performance just went down the toilet. And now the voltmeter shows that voltage is rising VERY slowly up to 14V. Sometimes doesn't even get there. So does that mean alternator is going out? Wow.

WIDE THROTTLE

Low vtec High vtec
1000 +0 3200 +2
1400 +0 3600 +2
1800 +1 4000 +3
2200 +2 4400 +3
2600 +3 4800 +3
3000 +3 5200 +2
3400 +2 5600 +2
3800 +2 6000 +1
4200 +1 6400 +0
4600 +1

NARROW THROTTLE

Low vtec High vtec
1000 +1 3200 +3
1400 +2 3600 +3
1800 +3 4000 +3
2200 +4 4400 +4
2600 +4 4800 +4
3000 +3 5200 +4
3400 +3 5600 +3
3800 +2 6000 +3
4200 +2 6400 +1
4600 +1
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Old Jul 1, 2004
  #60  
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Okay I pulled the new plugs and they were all white. Engine is in serious trouble.

Overheated: White, Blistered, Melted Electrode

Lean air/fuel mixture
Spark plug heat range is too hot for operating condition of the engine
Plug is not properly gapped and/or torqued onto head
Overly advanced timing

I'm thinking it's advanced timing, because this happened after I added more fuel. Now I'm putting the old plugs in, so hopefully nothing happens to them.
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