Rep Power: 313

umm...noob mistake on my part...my idle is at 700-800...i didn't realize that the first semi-big mark on my tach was for 500 rpms....so its all good...just a little FYI

 
Rep Power: 608

umm......i'm curious to this whole talk about a aftermarket pulley possibly messing up the engine. It is also possible that the stock pulley could be unbalanced and could cause vibrations.

Just wanted to throw that up in the air.

 
Rep Power: 812

It definately is possible. The stock pulley uses a key way system. Over time, engine stress could warp the key and cause vibration. On some cars, there is a rubber ring between the crank and pulley to dampen vibration. The DH pulley doesn't use a key. It presses on, so the only way it would cause problems would be if it were not balanced.

Does anyone know how the stock setup works? Is the dampener internal, or a rubber ring, or just the pulley itself?

 
Rep Power: 0

gearbox

I have never seen my voltage on my vic to be any higher than 14.1.
It is normally at 13.9 and dips down to 12.0 volts!
No extra subs or amps!


Dam I think I might order it when I get back in town!

 
Rep Power: 383

Just wondering if you confirmed this yet, and why werent you able to get both at autozone or a place like that?

 
Rep Power: 812

As of now, my voltmeter has always stayed around 14.0V with normal driving and system turned on. On very cold days when warming up, I've seen it shoot to 15.5V, then go back down.

I think our cars have something that turns off the alternator if you're not using all the juice. I've noticed the voltmeter go down to around 12V with the system off while driving. Then I turn the fan on or something else and it goes back up to 14+V.

 
Rep Power: 0

Well yeah, it's called a computer.. the alternator always needs to supply the car's electronics & stuff with the correct power. The alternator must run at max power sometives even when the car is just idiling. For example have you ever just turned your wheels when you were not moving & the car was idiling,... The rpm increases slightly to provide the alternator the proper energy required to keep the lights bright & stereo on, AC flowin', etc. Burning more gas when the AC & stereo is on while idiling of course. When the alternator is spinning real fast (ie high engine rpm) that sucker can get real hot, dissapating the extra power produced as heat through the metal casing fins!

But do we have a small (compared to the ones on power lines) variable transformer in our cars that lowers the output voltage of the alternator at high rpm so the electronics don't ignight?

 
Rep Power: 0

I can't believe all the worries about engine damage. It's a fuggin SOHC paperweight!!!!!! And don't give me any ish about SOHC buildups because hp:dollar it isn't worth it.

 
Rep Power: 310

tell that to Mr. Bisimoto, because his 12, 11, and 10 sec. single cam non-vtec screamers eats a type S for breakfast. oh and the good thing is, its quite cheap for the performance, unless of course ur a cheapskate or ur broke and cheap to u is a 250 dollar build up 5.0 V8 eater (which is non existent). just because its a single cam doesnt mean its slow, not worth it, and not have any potential.

 
Rep Power: 0

 
Rep Power: 383

was it ever confirmed about the second belt? did it work for the person who was installing it?

 
Rep Power: 0

Why is it that every shop I take this pulley to they are scaired to death of it or dont want to have anything to do with it?

 
Rep Power: 812

Hahaha. People are scared of something they don't understand. And I guess they're covering themselves if something happens to your car as a result. Technically it's considered an aftermarket part, not OEM.

 
Rep Power: 0

I agree 100%. I'm waiting for warm weather again and my friend Billy with the air-wrench. Don't be fooled, without it it's an ASSSSSSSSSSS. Quess I nee to break down and measure my belts. I thought you guys would help! really though, I'm not lazy. I'll find out.

 
Rep Power: 0

I'm doing it tomorrow as long as my pulley comes in because my friend and I are installing my header and catback also, so we were going to make and afternoon out of it.

 
Rep Power: 0

gearbox Ive taken it to shops that specialize in custom parts not oem and get the same reaction. Or I get this it wont fit

 
Rep Power: 0

This may not help but I always understood this engine to be interanlly balanced-internally dampened.

 
Rep Power: 0

My work was going to do it for 115.00 with no questions asked, and I work at a Nissan dealership. I don't know why you guys are having such a hard time finding a place. My buddy is going to do it for like 40-50 bucks.

 
Rep Power: 383

Just wondering if your taking to shops with the instructions, maybe thats why they cant figure it out? but yea that sucks i thought any mechanic could do it as long as they can take off the old and slap this on and but on the new belts.

 
Rep Power: 812

I don't understand why shops say it won't fit. I think they are just not experienced enough.

 
Rep Power: 0

Thats basically all there is to it. The Honda directions just say to take off the old one with a breaker bar and install the new one. Just take off your driver tire and its right there in your face.

 
Rep Power: 0

That really reaks if that is true after spending what I have on stuff for this car including the pulley. I really wouldn't want anything to happen. remember though, all the engineers and mechanics that develop and test this car make it this way for a reason and balance it just that way for a reason. we shouldn't mess with it. I am a starting mechanic-5 years experience. It takes a looong time to learn all the symatics of it all, period. This is my first import too. Make a decision I say. Either you will put it on or you won't. I trust 30 years of knowledge both ends. the one who made it for us, and the one who discourages it. We'll see.

 
Rep Power: 0

For a shop it shouldnt need instructions I would do it but I have no place to do it or the tools. It is pretty straight forward once you take the driver side wheel off and pull back the splash guard that tank of an oem pully is like bloaw its right there.

 
Rep Power: 0

Some of us rely on our cars to get us around everyday and are not made of money if it breaks! Not to be a ***** or whatnot but I enjoy tuning my car, but if it goes I'm screwed.

 
Rep Power: 0

any conformation on the 2nd belt size ?!?!?

 
Rep Power: 0

I looked at Autozone online only to find out the 2nd Part# was wrong. We know this, but the kelly springfield was p# 390k6 for the six groove, the 390k4 also came up though for the 4 groove. I'llfind out soon when I go to puchase them-

 
Rep Power: 0

for the powersteering belt, go to any autozone and ask for the kelly-springfield #390k4.

for the alternator belt, go to any pepboys and ask for the dayco #350k6.

the first three digits are the belt size and the number after the k is the number of notches.

hope that helps

 
Rep Power: 383

thank you finally now i can go buy these

 
Rep Power: 306

^ did you install yours with those 2?

 
Rep Power: 0

If you are that worried then put down the tools and call it quits. BTW people, you can have the same effect with a lightened flywheel as you would with this pulley. The only difference over stock is less strain on the engine and that is exactly what a lightened flywheel does. I can't wait to see the dyno on this one, 20hp on a D17?