no idea if this is a good set up or not
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Re: no idea if this is a good set up or not
lets start at the exhause header... so turbo adaptor, turbo, intake pipe, air filter, piping/rubber connector piping to the intake, boost controller, 440cc injectors, internals are a different story... and what about electrical? if i miss stuff let me know... i think what im going to do is leave this engine the way it is fix my adaptor... buy a b18c1 engine... tear it down to the bare block.... get the block acid dipped so its like bran new... and go from there slowly adding the internals in and building the engine as i get money... does that sound like a good idea?
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Re: no idea if this is a good set up or not
In basic terms the ECU controls the engine, sending out signals to the engine on how to do its job. By adding an EMS you gain the ability to tell the engine what you want it to do yourself, its absolutely essential if your going for a full engine build. Just gaining the ability to tune the engine to run 94 octane makes it worthwhile.
Sounds like a good plan though!
Sounds like a good plan though!
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Just a little disclaimer, I'm explaining everything that I feel needs explaining, so don't feel offended if I'm dumbing it down too far.
When you go boost, it's essential to have engine management. Without it, your ECU will try and control it like a stock engine, but in a boost situation, you're adding WAAAAY more air than stock. To alleviate this, the last owner installed higher capacity fuel injectors. Now, I haven't looked much into boost pressure vs injector rates, but I'm gonna assume that the 440's that were installed were adequate, but possibly running rich. I wouldn't know without seeing the thing run while looking at the A/F gauge, and even then, I'm not too familiar with lambda readings.
With a proper tune (i.e. adjustment of your engine management), it would tell your ECU to send in x amount of fuel for x amount of air your engine is seeing, giving the optimum conditions for combustion in your engine, thus, making the most efficient power possible.
Running rich (i.e. more fuel than air) is safer than lean (more air than fuel in the mix).
Too rich, and your gas mileage suffers, and you can foul your spark plugs, eventually clog your catalytic converter.. Your exhaust valves can become covered with soot, black smoke out your exhaust. With a turbo application, it's safe to run rich, but you'd still want to get it tuned properly so you're making the most power safely.
Running too lean is the dangerous part. Without adequate fuel, that can lead to detonation
clicky for explaination
Cliffs notes: Instead of spark plugs making the a/f mixture go boom, it's a diesel effect. Bad thing about that, it's not properly timed with the rest of the engine, so you'll get mismatching shockwaves and whatnot, and that can cause damage.
When you go boost, it's essential to have engine management. Without it, your ECU will try and control it like a stock engine, but in a boost situation, you're adding WAAAAY more air than stock. To alleviate this, the last owner installed higher capacity fuel injectors. Now, I haven't looked much into boost pressure vs injector rates, but I'm gonna assume that the 440's that were installed were adequate, but possibly running rich. I wouldn't know without seeing the thing run while looking at the A/F gauge, and even then, I'm not too familiar with lambda readings.
With a proper tune (i.e. adjustment of your engine management), it would tell your ECU to send in x amount of fuel for x amount of air your engine is seeing, giving the optimum conditions for combustion in your engine, thus, making the most efficient power possible.
Running rich (i.e. more fuel than air) is safer than lean (more air than fuel in the mix).
Too rich, and your gas mileage suffers, and you can foul your spark plugs, eventually clog your catalytic converter.. Your exhaust valves can become covered with soot, black smoke out your exhaust. With a turbo application, it's safe to run rich, but you'd still want to get it tuned properly so you're making the most power safely.
Running too lean is the dangerous part. Without adequate fuel, that can lead to detonation
clicky for explaination
Cliffs notes: Instead of spark plugs making the a/f mixture go boom, it's a diesel effect. Bad thing about that, it's not properly timed with the rest of the engine, so you'll get mismatching shockwaves and whatnot, and that can cause damage.
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^Minor addition to your excellent write up Josh, tuning an engine properly is a skill thats not easy to learn and takes a lot of talent. Its not something that you can DIY or do on the street, so once you get the b18c1 build complete your going to need to spend some time on a dyno to get everything set to just the right settings. Dyno time isn't cheap, around $100 an hour and having someone good tune your engine is essential. Around Vancouver, tuners move from shop to shop, like hockey players move from team to team, so talk to people around your local race tracks and forums to find out who the best honda tuner in Edmonton.
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^Minor addition to your excellent write up Josh, tuning an engine properly is a skill thats not easy to learn and takes a lot of talent. Its not something that you can DIY or do on the street, so once you get the b18c1 build complete your going to need to spend some time on a dyno to get everything set to just the right settings. Dyno time isn't cheap, around $100 an hour and having someone good tune your engine is essential. Around Vancouver, tuners move from shop to shop, like hockey players move from team to team, so talk to people around your local race tracks and forums to find out who the best honda tuner in Edmonton.
That is the reason I haven't looked much into injector size vs. boost levels, is because it is on a technical level that is beyond my current capabilities. I know how to look around and see what people are using, and even if the injectors are more than you need, a (good) tuner will (should) be able to dial it in to what your engine requires.
When I was boosted, dyno tuning in Tacoma, WA cost me $125 for the first hour, and $100 for every hour after that. You should research engine management systems, too, in case your car doesn't have one. Some are better than others. I have an AEM FI/C (their piggyback unit) that I've heard nothing but good things about, other than the fact that in the end, it's still a piggyback unit.
In case you don't know, a piggyback unit is a unit that taps in between the ECU and the engine, and it modifies the signal going to the engine, controlling engine functions that way. I don't know which Honda ECUs are learning types (i.e. adapts to changes), but I know that the D17 one kinda does, so piggybacks tend to suck. I have seen good results from the AEM FI/C on the D17 ECU. A standalone unit completely replaces the ECU, creating new signals to control the engine. Downside to these, they tend to be farkin expensive, the AEM EMS typically running $1200-1500, and the K-pro being about $1000.
With both types of EMS (engine management systems), you need to find someone that knows WTF their doing.
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just a little some thing to add... i removed the spark plugs for a look. and they are THE BEST looking color i have EVER seen in an engine.... they look better then my stock 98 s-10 and even better then our stock 2010 challenger r/t with about 5000k on it
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How many miles on the plugs? And what color, lol.. just checking.
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i have been field bagging vehicles since i was 9.... i know the basics... spark plug colors... if something won't start its either fuel or spark.... basic electrical.... i could probably rebuild an engine with some pointers...
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Paint should be OK, if needed, just sand them and re-paint to avoid rust.
ball joints mindbomber already gave you pointers, so good.
A-Arm could be bushings, or similar?
When you get to the ball joints, remove it and inspect. 1/2 the job will have been done already.
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cool, cool. No offense was meant. I didn't know the level of your engine aptitude
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)Is this the first turb'd engine you have seen so far?
This info will help on us not "just checking out"
On the forum use tips, try to use the edit function - the left blue button on the bottom of your post. That way you don't have to post consecutive post enters from you and you can post more concisely.(note that when someone answer you before you finish editing the post, the edited post will not move to a later placement on the thread)
Last edited by sdaidoji; Dec 12, 2010 at 11:13 AM. Reason: grammar... consisely... harharhar!
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yeah i know hahaha i don't get ofended easily... i just ignore it if i don't like it... and yeah this is my first turbo... i wanted to turbo my bagger vehicles but never had a turbo... which is probably a good thing!! and the only thing my dad has ever had turboes is an 06 summit 1000 sled and it was all done before him and he rode it 700km and blew it up due to too much heat(threw a chunk of piston threw the turbo)... i should actually steal that turbo and use it.... its an aerocharger turbo... 66mm...( it would need the turbine rebuilt) so i cant turn to him for help so here i am!!
Last edited by civicnewb; Dec 12, 2010 at 10:59 AM.
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i havve just been informed of my engine management system... ill copy and paste what the other owner said .... Hey Kyle, The engine management is Chrome. It is on an eprom chip in the ecu, you have to get a chip burner if you want to change any settings.
so what does that tell us? good? bad?
so what does that tell us? good? bad?
Re: no idea if this is a good set up or not
http://www.tunewithcrome.com/
http://www.d-series.org/forums/engin...faq-print.html
I don't know much about it personally, seems like its designed for older engines (2000 and older). That's probably why I've never heard of it. You need a chip burner to work with it, but it seems you already know that...
http://www.d-series.org/forums/engin...faq-print.html
I don't know much about it personally, seems like its designed for older engines (2000 and older). That's probably why I've never heard of it. You need a chip burner to work with it, but it seems you already know that...
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I've never heard of it till now lol
AEM, Greddy and Hondata are the only systems I'm familiar with. Look into the chip burner.
AEM, Greddy and Hondata are the only systems I'm familiar with. Look into the chip burner.
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with my ems i just need to find a turbo shop that knows chrome well.... im fairly certain that this car the way it sits now is perfect... im thinkin that all it may need is some dyno time with someone that knows what there doing to fine tune it.
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yep, that's what it sounds like. It should already be tuned for the current setup, but if you wanted to change that (i.e. more/less boost, different turbo, different injectors, etc), you'd have to get the chip burner and someone that knows what they're doing with Chrome
