no idea if this is a good set up or not
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Re: no idea if this is a good set up or not
yeah man the BOV is threaded.... right... sorry i forgot... when the car is idling i seems to suck a tiny bit from the BOV... or it kinda feels like it ill wait for mindbomber to reply im guessing he will knoe... that guy has been insane help
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Re: no idea if this is a good set up or not
Happy to help man, I'll try to hit all your q's, but if I miss one just ask again.
That blow off valve shouldn't have anything on the end, some higher end ones have rad little velocity stacks but DSM is a basic model.
The primary port of the BOV is open during idle, if you feel some air movement thats probably whats causing it.
You could get a larger turbo set-up and BOV and that would make it louder, only way short of that would be a whistle and some glue over the port. If someone knows better than I do please correct me on this.
Heres a diagram of the inside of a BOV, I thought it might be useful.
I've had spark plugs that were pretty tight before, and its kind of scary removing them I admit. Usually I just spray a bit of PB Blaster on them every morning/evening for a couple days to loosen it up and then remove it. Spark plugs are only supposed to be torqued to 13ftlbs, but the heat of the head can cause them to stick pretty bad. Since you just changed your other plugs, quick reminder, you need to re-torque them after 200kms.
Skunk2 stuff is insanely expensive, and not necessarily the best on the market, just throwing that out there. Painting stuff is so cheap prioritizing it isn't an issue, just do it.
sdaidoji, you auto-cross so thats not exactly normal wear on you LCAs lol, but your point is good. Check everything in your suspension for hairline cracks, but doubt you'll have any.
Flush the coolant and add a new thermostat, that should make the heater blow hotter and harder. If that doesn't work you need a new heater core, which is pricey.
Engine block heaters are awesome in Canadian winters, but they eat electricity, if you leave it plugged in all the time your electric bill will easily be $30 higher a month probs more.
I thought you were making $26 bones in a coal mine, now no job? what happened.
That blow off valve shouldn't have anything on the end, some higher end ones have rad little velocity stacks but DSM is a basic model.
The primary port of the BOV is open during idle, if you feel some air movement thats probably whats causing it.
You could get a larger turbo set-up and BOV and that would make it louder, only way short of that would be a whistle and some glue over the port. If someone knows better than I do please correct me on this.
Heres a diagram of the inside of a BOV, I thought it might be useful.
I've had spark plugs that were pretty tight before, and its kind of scary removing them I admit. Usually I just spray a bit of PB Blaster on them every morning/evening for a couple days to loosen it up and then remove it. Spark plugs are only supposed to be torqued to 13ftlbs, but the heat of the head can cause them to stick pretty bad. Since you just changed your other plugs, quick reminder, you need to re-torque them after 200kms.
Skunk2 stuff is insanely expensive, and not necessarily the best on the market, just throwing that out there. Painting stuff is so cheap prioritizing it isn't an issue, just do it.
sdaidoji, you auto-cross so thats not exactly normal wear on you LCAs lol, but your point is good. Check everything in your suspension for hairline cracks, but doubt you'll have any.
Flush the coolant and add a new thermostat, that should make the heater blow hotter and harder. If that doesn't work you need a new heater core, which is pricey.
Engine block heaters are awesome in Canadian winters, but they eat electricity, if you leave it plugged in all the time your electric bill will easily be $30 higher a month probs more.
I thought you were making $26 bones in a coal mine, now no job? what happened.
Last edited by MindBomber; Dec 9, 2010 at 06:06 PM.
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i haven't gotten that job yet.... sadly... my grandfather worked there for some 30 years and is going to get me a job there... and for the coolant... holy F!! took the cap off and its all rusty looking... i have read that the HKS BOV will make the sound i want
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oh i almost forgot... when i got my car back building boost last night i took it out for a tear and it feels like at about 6000 rpm when the turbo is workin hard that the tranny slips... what clutch would be a good investment?
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tore the whole turbo out today... ground some metal off the turbo so the nuts would spin on without catching the wall... turbo had threads but had to be drilled out for this application.... NO LEAKS now NONE whatso ever! set the turbo to 5 psi... im just letting the muffler cement harden over night then start it in the morning and let it get hot then cool off again.... my block heater should be in... forgot to get it before i did this... now when i put it in i have to take the trubo and exhause manifold off as one peice so i can't get any leaks... shes comming along.... got a phone call today about my job so hopefully ill have my front end parts in by the end of the month!!! then a wheel allignment some rims and tires probably put it on the road in march!! by then i will hopefully have all the interior done get my missing parts... new dash.... anyone used and substitutes for carpet on the floor? im also going to replace all the weather stripping i had water dripping threw the driver door
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Clutches are all about power goals, an Exedy stage 1 should serve your needs nicely.
Good move not changing the plugs, that will keep all the cylinders functioning similarly until you get the last one free. Change the coolant and your heater should function properly, you need to drain it for the block heater anyway so that would be a good time.
Good move not changing the plugs, that will keep all the cylinders functioning similarly until you get the last one free. Change the coolant and your heater should function properly, you need to drain it for the block heater anyway so that would be a good time.
Last edited by MindBomber; Dec 10, 2010 at 01:56 PM.
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another thing.... is the spot where the block heater goes threaded? i don't wanna get ripping and tearing on this to find out i have the wrong frost plug... hard to get the right parts when you don't really know the year of your engine and tranny im pretty sure there 2000's but i could be wrong
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already ran into a problem.... i took the header off and there is no spot behind it... no frost plug no bolt nothing.... is the frost plug possibly on the intake side of the engine?
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If your serious about a fully built and turbo'd motor your going to need to do a lot of research, because the d16y7 isn't a good candidate for a build that serious. You be better off swapping in a b18 or a b20 something along those lines, then building the motor.
The block heater usually replaces the coolant drain plug, which is on the bottom of your motor. Not exactly sure about yours though, if you look on handa-accessories.com you can probably find an install guide.
The block heater usually replaces the coolant drain plug, which is on the bottom of your motor. Not exactly sure about yours though, if you look on handa-accessories.com you can probably find an install guide.
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A lot. Single cam is a huge disadvantage.
Best for turbo is probably the B18c, the B18c5 is extremely expensive. The B16a, B16a2 and B16a3 are all great motors as well. The B20b is also a nice motor, with lots of torque. Depending on your budget you could go with an H22, or even a K motor. Universally the B18c is probably he most popular motor with drag racers not looking to go K. In perspective, you have 105hp on a stock motor and the b18c has 170hp stock.
Best for turbo is probably the B18c, the B18c5 is extremely expensive. The B16a, B16a2 and B16a3 are all great motors as well. The B20b is also a nice motor, with lots of torque. Depending on your budget you could go with an H22, or even a K motor. Universally the B18c is probably he most popular motor with drag racers not looking to go K. In perspective, you have 105hp on a stock motor and the b18c has 170hp stock.
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i think i may have found a b16a2... in a 93 del sol convertible.... price for whole car is 800 bucks.... ill ask if i could just buy the engine or pay cheaper for the whole thing
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Recommend same for engine. without it you can only do a Flintstone way of moving the car.
runnable car first, then go to dreaming.
Also, from your comment on the engine compression, you need to go to a library and get a book of engines, preferrably one with turbo theory.
You also need a haynes manual, available in any book stores for things that are stock in the car.
Don't think it's right to take your uncle from his work to take care of you being so green at this point. Don't ask too much, READ! and it's not on the internet. Most of the stuff i know is from reading (I am before the internet, so had to work hard for stuff).
Civic noob is fine, life noob is harder.
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yes sir... i checked everything under the car when i put in my block heater because it is right beside the oil filter... my suspension is skunk2 s-series pro... guy said there old though... about 5 years old... the paint is comming off the springs... i have a few loose bal joints... and the drivers side upper a-arm is loose where it bolts to the car.... is that just a bushing kit?
