diy: my throttle body heater bypass (pic!)
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From: Somewhere in kern county
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Originally Posted by paradoxblue
update ok
i did the throttle cable tightening
and wow i did feel a difference in responce teh car felt quicker at teh foot lol
oh and im idling fromt he looks at it between 800-900?
i did the throttle cable tightening
and wow i did feel a difference in responce teh car felt quicker at teh foot lol
oh and im idling fromt he looks at it between 800-900?
your are going to burn more gas, when tightening the cable make sure it doesn't raise your rpm. The setting is to be right before your rpm goes up. unless u want to burn more gas then leave it.
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From: Barrie Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 290 ok so 700 +/- 50? hmm ok ill fidle a bit more an dlosen it up a we bit. i think on the 04/05's it comes pretty tight from factory. as i did abotu 2 full spins on the nut and i was real high.s o its just little tweaks hehe.
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Originally Posted by gearbox
read my post about throttle cable sticky in vehicle problems forum.
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From: Fredericton, NB, Canada
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Gearbox, feel free to ad any of this to your throttle cable sticky...
I found that the best way to do the cable tightening was to release the nut closest to the exposed cable (On 01-05 Civic, it is the one on the left when facing the front of the car). Release this one first and back it off towards the exposed cable in small increments. Each time you back it off, pull the cable tight trying to make the nut come in contact with the mounting bracket that the cable/nut assembly sits in.
If when pulling on the cable, you rev the enging (assuming it is on) or if you make the butterfly valve budge the least little bit (Done by removing your intake box/pipe.), then change the setting of the nut to compensate.
One thing I noted was that there is some built in mechanical delay at the valve actuator. There is a dark, almost black actuator that is connected to the cruise control module and then there is a copper(ish) colored actuator that presses against the black actuator. There seems to be some intentional delay added here by making the copper actuator sit apart from the black actuator. I tightened mine until the copper touched but did not actuate the black. At that point, I locked the lock nut that is on the left. This eliminated almost all delay.
One thing is for sure. It is a lot easier to do this on the 01-05 Civic with the entire OEM airbox removed. A lot of preliminary work, to be sure, but a lot less frustration while trying to adjust the cable. If you do this, it would also be a good time to perform the TB coolant bypass.
I found that the best way to do the cable tightening was to release the nut closest to the exposed cable (On 01-05 Civic, it is the one on the left when facing the front of the car). Release this one first and back it off towards the exposed cable in small increments. Each time you back it off, pull the cable tight trying to make the nut come in contact with the mounting bracket that the cable/nut assembly sits in.
If when pulling on the cable, you rev the enging (assuming it is on) or if you make the butterfly valve budge the least little bit (Done by removing your intake box/pipe.), then change the setting of the nut to compensate.
One thing I noted was that there is some built in mechanical delay at the valve actuator. There is a dark, almost black actuator that is connected to the cruise control module and then there is a copper(ish) colored actuator that presses against the black actuator. There seems to be some intentional delay added here by making the copper actuator sit apart from the black actuator. I tightened mine until the copper touched but did not actuate the black. At that point, I locked the lock nut that is on the left. This eliminated almost all delay.
One thing is for sure. It is a lot easier to do this on the 01-05 Civic with the entire OEM airbox removed. A lot of preliminary work, to be sure, but a lot less frustration while trying to adjust the cable. If you do this, it would also be a good time to perform the TB coolant bypass.
<---- I am really this short in person!
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From: illinois
Rep Power: 0 ok, i got a question. i'm trying to put the hoses back to the TB. cause tonight while i was driving, i temp gauge went all the way past high. so i stopped the car and popped the hood. then i saw that the plastic vacuum hose that i used broke in half (i have no idea how the hell it broke, but it broke in half really clean). do any of you guys know which hose goes to which TB nozzle? does the short one go to the bottom one? or vice versa?? thanks
it shouldnt matter but the shorter one goes to the bottom one and the long one goes to the top one. i just went the safe route and just took the long hose and connected it to the short hose knipple. i just took off the shorter hose but saw alot of coolant leak but no worries. hope u get that fixed
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From: illinois
Rep Power: 0 yeah, got that fixed last night. had to borrow a narrow nosed pliers from a kid that was playing bean bags in front of his house. so i put the shorter hose to the bottom one and the long one to the top one. after that, i started to drive, but it started to heat up again so i had to stop the car and let it cool down again. took me about 30 minutes or so. after the engine cooled down somewhat, i poured some water into the radiator. and it took about 2 liters of water!!! after that the engine didn't heat up. do you guys think this could have messed up my engine? what about the water in the radiator?
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From: NV
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you need to get it flushed asap and replaced with honda coolant. I hope you didn't put tap water and used distilled. But do coolant flush fast.
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From: NV
Rep Power: 812 i would take it to dealer. It involves draining coolant (and collecting it), and pouring new in. There's some kind of drain bolt or something. If you really want, I'll look in the service manual.
<---- I am really this short in person!
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From: illinois
Rep Power: 0 yeah, can you do that for me gearbox, please? the coolant is all over the engine bay and all, and even though i took 2 showers, my hand still smells like coolant and burnt rubber.
I got a question about all this. Its confusing, but maybe some one could clear it up for me. I read most of this thread, so, if I have this correct, I should be able to disconnect the inlet tube from the TB, reroute it to the passenger compartment, pipe it through my ceramic coffee mug plate, secure it to the dash so that my abrasive braking and quick starts won't knock it off the dash holding my beverage secure, then run the outlet (from the mug plate) back to the engine compartment (should be cool now), and then route it back into the engine. I will then plug the TB inlet and outlets so that dirt remains out.
Will this work?
j/k,
Will this work?
j/k,
Last edited by edicivic2k1; Jul 6, 2005 at 08:11 PM.
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From: NV
Rep Power: 812 My plastic tube is still holding up after numerous long distance drives and 2 months time. Why would the engine light come on??There is no way that can happen by connecting the hoses together. Its only coolant flow.
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From: NV
Rep Power: 812 Well I recently started having some serious idle problems. After starting the car cold, the idle would go up and down and almost stalled a few times. Then it happened as I was driving after the coolant reached normal temp. So...I'm putting it back to stock. I'm very sure its the idle air control valve causing it (and thats where the coolant goes in the TB).
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From: Phoenix, Az
Rep Power: 313 hmmm.....never had that problem with mine, but that's prolly cuz i live in phx and there's not really that much difference in humidity etc......it's hot or not so hot, that about it
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From: NV
Rep Power: 812 Ya the thing is it went away once the TB got hot after some driving. Or maybe its a different case because I have an auto. Who knows.
I need TP for my bunghole
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From: OXNARD, CA. SoCal. "805", North of L.A.
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Originally Posted by born2xLr8
The plastic piece you used looks a lot like mine.
this is the best damn pic I've seen on this thread yet!
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http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/at...chmentid=55053
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From: NV
Rep Power: 812 Also for those keeping the mod, I wouldn't use plastic. Mine was so beat I could squish it with some pliars. Before is was hard but now its limp.
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From: Phoenix, Az
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Originally Posted by gearbox
Also for those keeping the mod, I wouldn't use plastic. Mine was so beat I could squish it with some pliars. Before is was hard but now its limp.
i would suggest like others have to not use a plastic or any connectors for the 2 tubes. take out the small tubing and connect the long one to the place where the small tubing was connected to. i have no problems at all and i have beaten on my car a couple times and temp here is incredibly hot(No. VA) saves u tons of headaches and problems
