diy: my throttle body heater bypass (pic!)
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 51,241
Likes: 20
From: NV
Rep Power: 812 
i put it back to stock and really there isn't much difference. Maybe it doesn't help as much as it might seem. Well I drove around and nothings leaking at least. Has to spend some time getting air bubbles out again and coolant slipping all over at first.
I need TP for my bunghole
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,103
Likes: 0
From: OXNARD, CA. SoCal. "805", North of L.A.
Rep Power: 360 someone should do a tempature test with and without the bypass mod.
Does anyone have a INFRARED LASER THERMOMETER ?
Does anyone have a INFRARED LASER THERMOMETER ?
Last edited by PunkingCivic; Jul 21, 2005 at 02:14 PM.
I'm unusually bored.
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 419
Likes: 0
From: Columbia, Md
Rep Power: 0 This is dumb but interesting. Someone was talking about filling your windshield washer fluid reservoir with ice water and running one of the hoses that goes into the nozzles into the the throttle body instead. When you use the "squirt" you'd be cycling ice water through your throttle body. I'm not going to try this, but its funny.
AKA Mr. 60ft. Not to be confused with Civic_Redline
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 752
Likes: 0
From: Barksdale AF Base LA
Rep Power: 0 hey that sounds like a pretty good idea. Dont know if would work though. You could run one squirter hose to the top port on the throttle body, then make a return hose to the washer resivour. Other qusetions, would the washer pump be strong enough to push it through and will running water through the throttle body damage that sensor that is supossidly in there?
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 51,241
Likes: 20
From: NV
Rep Power: 812 the sensor is definately there. It even has a plug with wires coming off it (its the idle air control IAC solenoid). Well anyway I fixed my problem. Just put the coolant hoses back and reset the ecu. Now it idles alot better.
AKA Mr. 60ft. Not to be confused with Civic_Redline
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 752
Likes: 0
From: Barksdale AF Base LA
Rep Power: 0
Originally Posted by gearbox
the sensor is definately there. It even has a plug with wires coming off it (its the idle air control IAC solenoid). Well anyway I fixed my problem. Just put the coolant hoses back and reset the ecu. Now it idles alot better.
Titanium Metallic. You got a problem with that?
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 6,496
Likes: 0
From: So Cal
Rep Power: 351 Maybe Im stupid, but wouldnt running ice cold water into the throttle body would be a bad idea. Hydrolock anybody? I know it works with Intercooled (turbo) vehilces, I did that with my WRX, but I dont know about shooting it into the throttle body of the vic.
7thgen Terminator Ninja
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,854
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, Az
Rep Power: 313
Originally Posted by Nodnero
Maybe Im stupid, but wouldnt running ice cold water into the throttle body would be a bad idea. Hydrolock anybody? I know it works with Intercooled (turbo) vehilces, I did that with my WRX, but I dont know about shooting it into the throttle body of the vic.
AKA Mr. 60ft. Not to be confused with Civic_Redline
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 752
Likes: 0
From: Barksdale AF Base LA
Rep Power: 0
Originally Posted by booba5185
well there was antifreeze running through the same spot before and it doesn't actually get in the throttle body, it's just that it converts the throttle body heater into a throttle body cooler
, but will it work?
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 51,241
Likes: 20
From: NV
Rep Power: 812 i'm not sure how that sensor works. Maybe cold water might screw with the idle? There definately is no worry about putting water through there. It will only pass near the tb where air passes next to, not actaully go anywhere inside the engine.
7thgen Terminator Ninja
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,854
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, Az
Rep Power: 313 the only thing i can think of to fix the sensor isue (when is happens) is to have everything hooked up like stock, run the car til it is at oper. temp, shut the car off, unplug the sensor take a multimeter, and check the sensor for what resistance it is, then go buy a resistor at that resistance, this is only an idea, i'm at work and cant see the sensor in front of me, but if the sensor only has 2 wires, then in theory, it should work....
AKA Mr. 60ft. Not to be confused with Civic_Redline
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 752
Likes: 0
From: Barksdale AF Base LA
Rep Power: 0 ok. I just pulled the washer hose off where it goes into the T splice on the hood and did some tests. First I drained the washer fluid. Then I poured some chilled water from the fridge in there. First problem I came across. Need to disable the wipers from coming on when u spray the washers. That would look pretty gay at the track or street. LOL Next issue is there enough pressure to push it all the way and back. It would seem so but the only way to find out is to do it I guess. While I was testing all this out I came up with another add on to this idea. Why not wrap hose all the way around the intake then put heat wrap over top then run in through the throttle body? Two problems with that. Again will the pressure be enough? And I found the water coming out the hose was a lot cooler then the hose itself so it wouldn't even cool the intake just by touching it. Make sense since the hose is rubber or whatever, conducts less heat. So metal would work better. So I grab my purge tube that I never put on and stuck it on the end of the washer hose. Ran the pump for a few secs and bam it was ice cold. Stayed ice cold for a few secs then was still cool to the touch after that. So some sort of metallic bendable hose would need to be wrapped around the intake for this to effectivly cool it. Then wrap the heat wrap over top to prevent the hot under hood temps from reversing the process. So In theory this would work if the pump is putting out enough pressure. It doesn't have to be a lot just enough to keep cool water circulating. I have seen somthing kinda similar with a coffe can wrapped with some sorta thin fuel line then ice dropped into the can. In this case instead of circulating the item being cooled around the cooling agent we would be circulatung the cooling agent around the item being cooled. Now I gotta find out where I can get some of that metallic hose and test this out. May or may not be worth it, but won't know until someone tries.
Any thoughts or opinions?
Any thoughts or opinions?
Last edited by Redline04; Jul 23, 2005 at 03:19 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 51,241
Likes: 20
From: NV
Rep Power: 812 keep with the original idea. Putting heat wrap around the intake actually traps heat. I bought some expensive dei intake wrap and actually the intake tube felt hotter than before. Eventually the tube will heat up from all the engine parts.
I'm unusually bored.
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 419
Likes: 0
From: Columbia, Md
Rep Power: 0 This is funny. I didn't think anyone was paying attention. I'd like to see someone get it to work. Although, It really would only help people for a couple runs at the track, since there's no way to keep the water cold for very long.
AKA Mr. 60ft. Not to be confused with Civic_Redline
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 752
Likes: 0
From: Barksdale AF Base LA
Rep Power: 0
Originally Posted by tony_buttons
This is funny. I didn't think anyone was paying attention. I'd like to see someone get it to work. Although, It really would only help people for a couple runs at the track, since there's no way to keep the water cold for very long.
Just to let everyone know, I'm still running strong with my single, direct hose. Is anyone who ran it like me having any problems? Also, is not having the coolant run through there gonna fry my IAC? I haven't had any problems at all yet...
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 51,241
Likes: 20
From: NV
Rep Power: 812 there's a thread why this is a really bad idea. I have put mine to stock and all my idle problems are gone finally. The way the coolant runs, it actually only touches a small opening in the tb and doesn't pass any sensors. So the sensor should be fine but I still had idle problems due to the car thinking it wasn't warmed up enough.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 51,241
Likes: 20
From: NV
Rep Power: 812 didn't pay attention but I doubt it. From what they figured in the other thread, it only raises intake air temps by 1-2 degrees. Not even worth doing.
Not worth doing? Damn, I remember when people were totally gung-ho about the whole thing. Did anyone actually do a dyno test with it? Cause I still remember when my car was stock and it got to temp it would run really sluggish, pretty much like accelerating with the A/C on full blast. But then it never ran like that since I did it... Gearbox, you got that thread handy?
I'm unusually bored.
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 419
Likes: 0
From: Columbia, Md
Rep Power: 0 Mine is fine, and I did the old hose switcheroo, so I'm guessing it's like yours, jester. But at least we know what the reason is if we start having idle problems. I'll put it back when I start rumbling a little more I guess, but my car feels pretty healthy lately, so I'm not going to change it for no reason.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 51,241
Likes: 20
From: NV
Rep Power: 812
Originally Posted by tony_buttons
Mine is fine, and I did the old hose switcheroo, so I'm guessing it's like yours, jester. But at least we know what the reason is if we start having idle problems. I'll put it back when I start rumbling a little more I guess, but my car feels pretty healthy lately, so I'm not going to change it for no reason.
7thgen Terminator Ninja
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,854
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, Az
Rep Power: 313 thats why i started this...or tried tooo......... http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=220727
