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The package said 1/4 inch, but I'm certain that was the inside diameter. It has threads on the fittings. It just barely fit.I put a little vasoline on the fittings and the hoses slipped right on.

 
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This mod is better than buying a new intake! That cool air is so much better.

 
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Well, I just got done with this... WOW! What a process. I thought twas all gonna be cool, zip of the induction, change around the piping... NO! Found out that Car Quest's copper piece was too small for the inner dimensions of the stock hose. So then I just say **** it... I got enough 3/8 hose to run from motor nipple to motor nipple. Was fairly easy to get the hose on in the rear cause my friend had small hands (did this at my buddies garage). Then, try to put the hose clamp on... NO! The ****er was too big! Only by a bit, but still! So here we are cranking down on this 2 size-too big hose clamp with a foot long flat head. *sigh* We start it up... all is doing well up the thermostat until my fan kicks on. 2 seconds after we see a leak in the rear fitting. So there we are cranking down even MORE with almost 1 1/2" of metal sticking out of the hose clamp (just to give you an idea how so much bigger it is). So then it stops leaking and I'm happy.

I'm testing it, romping on it a little bit cause I want to make sure that it's not gonna leak under pressure. All is good until the off ramp. I'm going slow behind a car and I realize my temp is going up to the 2/3 mark! But then as soon as I open the throttle again it starts to go down. I get back in the neighborhood and still drive at low RPM like the off ramp. Doesn't go back up and is totally stable. I pull in my driveway and check the fittings, no leakage. Thank god everything turned out, but I'm still kinda worried about my temp goin up. I lost all of about 1/8 quart of coolant through this, so I don't think it has to do with that... Any other ideas?

Oh yea, about the performance: Defintely feel the difference under hard acceleration, but then again I was driving with my induction off so... But when I put it back on in the morning I'll test again.

One more question: Would a cai do anything now that this is done? Possibly make the airflow less restrictive?

 
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I just like the way stock intake is designed. No noises and good all around power. You may have bubbles in the coolant and that will lessen the cooling capacity. I still need to bleed mine. With car cold, open radiator cap, start car and warm up to temp, turn ac on and let the fan cycle on and off for 5 mins. Turn off car and close cap. Bubbles should all have escaped. Keep it going until all bubbles are gone. You can see em popping at the surface.

 
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I found a real quick solution for this, if it wasn't simple enough:

I got a 3/8" brass barb slicer from lowe's for $1.30. It's in the plumbing section. Simply connect the two tubes from the throttle body together with the connector. The clips can be reused. Throttle body bypassed. Done.

 
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Yea, I just like having a direct line... less chance for leakage.

 
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yeah i was gonna replace the whole line itself, but i couldn't get my hand down in to the back of the engine.

 
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I was lucky my friend had small hands But even then it was a really pain in the ***

 
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this mod owns for $1.30.

The throttle body, intake manifold, and aem cai are nice and cold after a drive contrary to when every part was hot to the touch in stock form.

 
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hmm makes me wanna get an intake again now that the air stays cold. I always thought it was the intake drawing warm air when in reality the tb was doing it.

 
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nice, ill probaly do that for the summer

 
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yeah thats what it seemed to me for the longest time. with the grill ive put on, the engine also has more of a chance to breathe. the cai seems more effective after this mod - there is almost no heat soaking after sitting in traffic for a while.

 
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Ok Gearbox I have an important issue about this DIY..
I live in canada and it gets damn cold in the winter..

Doesnt the coolent do something to the throttle body in the winter time at minus 40 degrees when starting the car..

I want to know if its there for a reason. If you tell me it doesnt do **** then ill do the DIY (Your DIY) this week end

 
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it supposed to keep the throttle plate warm to the freezing air doesn't freeze it open when moisture is around it. I really can't see that happening, so I'm leaving it for the winter. If something happens, I'll put it to stock. The only thing that could happen tho is the throttle getting stuck and you'll have to put it in neutral and shut car off. Older cars don't even have the tb coolant heater.

 
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Maybe they did this cause of the new carb. style IM? Maybe the design of the throttle plate or sumthin? What ever... I love it!

 
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someone mentioned a cooling system using the coolant inlet/outlet ports of the throttle body? sounds interesting....

my guess is maybe running lines from that to a air-water cooler to run cold water through the TB to make it cold? is that what you were thinking of (prollly ineffective tho...)?

 
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i just wanted to add.......

 
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That actually sounds like it would work, but having constant airflow through there keeps it cold... I mean, how much cooler can it get and would the gains be worth the trouble of setting up a whole new system?

 
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to much work..

 
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ya its already pretty cold anyway. You would need to run ice water or something through it.

 
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Just a quick question not related to this...
What is rep?

 
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haha^ that lil scale next to the post # in a members box.

 
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Well yea, but what's it for?

 
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reputation - if members think you are nice/mean, cool/uncool, to be trusted/not to be trusted. notice the red bars and the green bars.

 
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Gotcha!

 
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it goes through the intake instead of the TB on the gsr. yes you can bypass it without a problem. old mod. good one though.

 
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oooo something just popped into my head

ok main heat soak problems with aluminum intakes --> heated up throttle body right, in addition to engine heat. but the way i see it, the throttle bodyheater would be a big source of heat since the intake pipe would be connected to it via the hose clamp.

now with the bypass done, would there still be a loss of low-end simply because of the open air element design (no plenum for air to sit in, lower air velocities, decreased low-end torque) or would there be SOME power gained back on the low-end due to a major source of heat-soak eliminated?

im guessing it would result in less bogging down but still have a loss in low-end just because of the intake design...

 
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i'm trying the aem v2 next so we'll see I guess. From the dyno I've seen, it doesn't really lose low end and makes 5whp max around 5k rpms. I'll see how it feels and then throw it on a dyno next time I goto chicago for the 7thgen meet.

 
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V2 gets heat soaked in warm weather. It pulls hard when it's cold, but it boggs in hot weather. Get a true CAI.

 
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i have a standard ole aem cai thats 4 years old and i did this mod. the cai has more low end than a sri, as discussed many times before. this mod helps power throughout the rpm band.

before, the intake pipe would get hot and heat the cold air coming in from the bottom of the engine bay where the filter is located. now, the intake is working as it should - pulling cold air and having less of a chance to heat up before being combusted. you can really notice a difference when you are going 40+ mph.