diy: my throttle body heater bypass (pic!)
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: NV
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hmm so the bypass doesn't do anything then? If the solenoid just shuts off coolant flow...but I could feel the tb being alot cooler after the mod. Idk??
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Houma, Louisiana
Rep Power: 306 yea it def felt alot cooler after this mod. Even though the solenoid shuts off the flow of coolant, the throttle body still gets considerably hot. Blocking off the coolant from ever entering the throttle body heater you are eliminating this all together.
If you're gonna do this definitely get someon with small hands so you can just do the two engine connections with a single 1/4" hose. I don't think you should do it any other way in case of leakage, corrosion, or melting. You never know what might happen...
Subarus FTW I do NOT miss my civic
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From: Scottsdale, AZ
Rep Power: 0 I just took the in part to the TB and connected it to where the hose connects to the back of the mtoor. It was a pain to get it to go down there, but I have very skinny hands. So there is the one hose, and I put another hose that I cut down to size (extra hose from profec-b), and threw it on the TB. I am not sure if it made any difference, cuz we did it at the same time as the turbo install. Car does start up very nicely though.
master of the culinary martial arts
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Originally Posted by fullgrown
i've used a plastic splice, and it's awsome. there's no melting. but you have to cut the ends so there's a better flow of coolant.
this is what i got. a universal vacuum connector.
this is what i got. a universal vacuum connector.
Last edited by masarak; May 18, 2005 at 04:26 PM. Reason: deleted photo
Ashho-san 7thgen Ninja
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From: Rock Hill, SC
Rep Power: 267 i got a piece of solid tube break line. i had to bend it into shape myself, but it was so long, like 6", that it goes far enough into the tube that even without the clamps, there is no worry of leaking or it comin off.
I'm taking over!
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
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I tried to use pliers and it helped a little. I finally just used my finger to spin the clamp until it finally worked it's way down the hose. It was a real pain in the ***, but I was determined to get it done.
Originally Posted by fullgrown
i couldn't even see the other hose. is it like right next to the oil filter????
Thread Starter
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From: NV
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Originally Posted by DaddyFatSacks
Let me ask you this? I did the mod about a week ago and I still notice my intake is hot even though it's still a bit cold here. Do you think it's the hot oil vapors coming out of the valve cover breather. I've searched on this topic and found all different answers. What do you guys think, cap the intake and put on a dump tibe or breather? It's hot right by the bend above the TB on the AEM sri.
Also I ordered a K&N typhoon short ram so I'm thinking about doing something. A breather filter on the crankcase will work, but you won't pass smog like that.
Originally Posted by gearbox
To clear this up, air moves from the intake INTO the crankcase through that hose. So actually air is being sucked from the intake tract into the case. Which brings up another point about how air flow is affected. If you just cap it, there will still be a spot for dead air to collect in the pipe cause it's not straight on the inside. Anyone have an answer?
Also I ordered a K&N typhoon short ram so I'm thinking about doing something. A breather filter on the crankcase will work, but you won't pass smog like that.
Also I ordered a K&N typhoon short ram so I'm thinking about doing something. A breather filter on the crankcase will work, but you won't pass smog like that.
What do those do anyway? Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: NV
Rep Power: 812 well they're breather filters. I might be getting one to try out, so I'll post pics. The thing is...it's not a question of heat, just extra air being pulled from the intake. Air that should be going all into the tb.
I'm taking over!
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
Rep Power: 0 Well, you could just run a hose or pipe from your intake into the part where it takes air in, and just leave the part where the air goes out uncovered. You don't have to worry about the part where the air goes out getting dirt or dust in it because it will be blowing anyway. This is just an idea though. I don't know if it will actually work.
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From: Western Massachusetts, US
Rep Power: 0 I got a nice section of hose and a K&N breather (even came with a cap for a stock GN that perfectly cover the nip on my AEM sri.) from my friend who owns a Grand National shop, i'm not even kidding, he had like 10 kinda of breather filters. I got a small aluminum one with about 3' of hose.
Thread Starter
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From: NV
Rep Power: 812 you won't get air being sucked away from the intake and into the crankcase. Btw I redid mine with plastic connector and so far its okay. I need to fix stuff tho once the intake comes in and maybe trim the hose a bit.
AKA Mr. 60ft. Not to be confused with Civic_Redline
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From: Barksdale AF Base LA
Rep Power: 0 ok I got rid of the brass barb, which did in fact look like it had a bit of corrosion on the outside of the hose. I just made it one continous hose using the longer piece. Perfect length. Kinda tricky but got the job done with some long needle nose pliers. Lost a bit of fluid too. LOL When I first seperated the two hoses nothing came out then I pulled the short tricky one off and it started spraying. LOL So I quickly slid the other hose on there and stopped it. Pulled the metal hose clip down with the pliers pinching it open and slid it into place with my fingers. Easy, just a little tricky due to being in a tight spot.
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Originally Posted by gearbox
you won't get air being sucked away from the intake and into the crankcase. Btw I redid mine with plastic connector and so far its okay. I need to fix stuff tho once the intake comes in and maybe trim the hose a bit.
Thread Starter
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From: NV
Rep Power: 812 okay well I did mine. Ended up cutting a bit of the stock hose to make everything fit. I checked the plastic connector and no signs of melting. So it works. I just gotta add some coolant and get the bubbles out.
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From: Orange County, California, US
Rep Power: 309 When i tried that method of getting bubbles out of the coolant, the coolant level in the radiator rose till it started spilling over (as the engine warmed up) so I stopped. This all happened within minutes so I never let it run for nearly 10 mins.
Does that mean I don't have any bubbles or what do you guys recommend?
Does that mean I don't have any bubbles or what do you guys recommend?
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: NV
Rep Power: 812 haha yea that's supposed to happen. Okay here's a quick diy.
1. When car is COLD, open radiator cap.
2. Turn on car and hold the gas around 2k rpms until the needle says the temp is normal.
3. Turn on the a/c full blast on cold setting and close the door.
4. Watch if any bubbles come up from the coolant in the radiator. This may take only a few minutes or less. Basically keep the a/c going until you no longer see bubbles popping on the surface.
5. If coolant starts to overflow, have a papertowel handy or just let it drip.
6. Turn off the car and wait for the coolant to drop about an inch or so before tightening the cap.
1. When car is COLD, open radiator cap.
2. Turn on car and hold the gas around 2k rpms until the needle says the temp is normal.
3. Turn on the a/c full blast on cold setting and close the door.
4. Watch if any bubbles come up from the coolant in the radiator. This may take only a few minutes or less. Basically keep the a/c going until you no longer see bubbles popping on the surface.
5. If coolant starts to overflow, have a papertowel handy or just let it drip.
6. Turn off the car and wait for the coolant to drop about an inch or so before tightening the cap.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: NV
Rep Power: 812 I'm having some problems now. The rpms are fluctuating when I'm driving slow before engine gets warmed up. It would start shaking with rpms going up/down for a few secs. It goes away when warm. So maybe its the solenoid sensor? Can we unplug it?
