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Almost a engine ! Cut and paste from another web page!
getting a pretty bad oil leak down the passenger front of the head and block but it got too dark to really do much. Also it didn't fire up just cranked fairly slowly like it had nowhere to go. Belts look good. All the sensors looked plugged in. Vacuum hoses look good. Try again tomorrow.
I did come up with a full blown service manual for a 2003 civic where can I post it so our brothers can access it? It's quite large as pdf, 28.1MB, so I don't know how much in differences there are between years but it seems to be a generational thing with Honda.
for sharing the hatch service manual, could you send a PM to someone with a file sharing site? Maybe to xriceboyx?
Dropbox would be an option (I don't know the other most recent sites that does that safely...)
we moderators will try to figure out a way to share that service manual for the hatch
Thanks a lot for your finding of that manual!
Glad to see your project is progressing!
This engine surely had a bad head gasket that was ignored for a while. I hope none of the rod bearings started to fail.
95701-06022-08 (6x22)
95801-06030-08 (6x30)
For the water pump there are three 30mm and one 22mm bolts. The 22mm bolt goes on the top towards the firewall. If you're staring at the pump from the driver's side of the car, top right. Should be easy to tell where it goes based on the pump's design.
EGR runners. Clean all that gunk out or you may have misfires in the future.
I've never seen a lower timing cover that wasn't broken, except the new one I purchased to replace a broken one.
After getting this thing back together I now understand why they are torn apart! That is some frustrating order of assembly on the cam side for a virgin like me!
Last edited by BrotatoChip; May 31, 2023 at 10:59 AM.
Reason: Fixed quote
what I did was leave the key in the "on" position without starting the engine for a good long while (like a few minutes) to get that static pressure behind the injectors. Sure, still took like 2 cycles to do it, but she purred like a kitten once she did turn over. I've heard of more cycles needed if someone just up and tried to start it right after reassembly was complete
edit: can I take a second and say this is prolly some of the best discussion we've had on this forum in a while? We've had a lot of "it broken. how fix?" then people dip forever without responding or interacting. @usecom for real, thanks for posting up and interacting with us
what I did was leave the key in the "on" position without starting the engine for a good long while (like a few minutes) to get that static pressure behind the injectors. Sure, still took like 2 cycles to do it, but she purred like a kitten once she did turn over. I've heard of more cycles needed if someone just up and tried to start it right after reassembly was complete
edit: can I take a second and say this is prolly some of the best discussion we've had on this forum in a while? We've had a lot of "it broken. how fix?" then people dip forever without responding or interacting. @usecom for real, thanks for posting up and interacting with us
The battery is low low but test good. I am slow charging it. I'll try the ignition charge trick to see if it helps. My crank sounds like cha cha cha braaaa. then it slows the more I try to push it. The oil leak after checking the valve cover torque @8lb maybe a bit less is still pretty steady flow. Anyone have a Honda PN for a tampon?
Leak is coming from under and betwixt here. Cylinder head bolt? Possibly overfilled oil ? Doesn't leak from here. Concerned about the gap but no oil leak.
also on the no start I am not getting any spark on #4 and I am assuming the others as well. What would have been unplugged that would give no juice that could possibly be still unplugged? The TDC plug is good the oil pump sensor by the drive gear is good and good = plugged in. I haven't tested the actual sensors but the damn thing was running when it got here. The coil harness is plugged in. All the MAF is plugged in. Fuse or relay maybe?
VTEC solenoid ? on the back of the head is dripping/ streaming oil from the bottom then along the ledge to the front of the block. New gasket though. Torque spec anyone? No idea on the no spark issue yet.Any ideas? a1 Mc c cut This is going to get the finger of the day.
Screen or no screen in the top gasket /filter?
the screen just crushes which cannot be correct. Looks like the mesh will get into the oil flow after a while but the gasket is made for it. I replaced the back gasket with a similar filter and it fit fine. This is just weird. Wrong part for year? Just remove the screen? Honda tac TF outta of it?
I recall the screen being on the interface between the block and the vtec solenoid assembly. I don't remember a screen there. Someone else wanna crazy check us?
I don't actually recall taking the top off the assembly like that, come to think of it.
edit: found this amazon listing for a generic VTEC solenoid gasket kit for the D16 and D17, the one you have a screen on doesn't have one here
Update. Got it back together for the eighth time? Oil leak seems to have solved itself with the retorque of that solenoid. First turn 3 or 4 codes and basically it,s misfire on 234 and then a generic random misfire code. It smooths out at above 2500rpm then it starts to miss at anything lower. It's not overheating now so mission accomplished there. I get hot air from the heater core and it's currently running without a thermostat because I have coolant flush in it. I am going to drain the oil tomorrow and refill with a fresh filter as well. Then same with the coolant adding the thermostat back in. I cleared the misfire codes and even though the engine is running rough the codes didn't reappear but the check engine light is on and the needs service light is on.
I vaguely recall setting my timing belt off by 1 tooth and it running like ****. You double check the timing? Not saying it'd cause a misfire, but it definitely ran like ****.
So I guess I will start in the AM by looking for vacuum leaks and put the rest of the intake back together. Overall I am pretty happy that I stuck the valve cover on with no leaks twice. I did put a very thin layer of Honda's gasket seal applied with a spatula for the 2nd time.
Yeah that didn't work for whatever reason. Maybe I should strip the engine down ?
the odometer reset button is famous to stop working and needing a soldering something in the dash.
I simply put a black tape on top of the maintenance required light. only downside is not being able to reset trip odo or to change to total or trip
That was moreso on the 01-02 clusters. Was actually the tactile button switch behind the **** failing. Before I replaced the switch, heavy pressure (I used a socket with extension) worked. Then again, that stupid odo button/key turn dance was a pain in the *** to begin with, even with a properly working switch.
I vaguely recall setting my timing belt off by 1 tooth and it running like ****. You double check the timing? Not saying it'd cause a misfire, but it definitely ran like ****.
after I cleared , nothing came up that saved to memory. I'll check for vacuum leaks first then the oil and coolant. I may have over filled with oil. With it sitting for so long I put a squirt on each cylinder bore and then over the camshaft and valve rocker roller assembly. Then it still wanted 4 qts according to the dipstick.
I vaguely recall setting my timing belt off by 1 tooth and it running like ****. You double check the timing? Not saying it'd cause a misfire, but it definitely ran like ****.
how in the hell do you adjust 1 tooth on a timing belt?
how in the hell do you adjust 1 tooth on a timing belt?
The cam/crank timing being off one tooth on the belt. Meaning the engine is out of time. Would probably still start but would be noticeable down on power, probably other issues as well.
how in the hell do you adjust 1 tooth on a timing belt?
Originally Posted by BrotatoChip
The cam/crank timing being off one tooth on the belt. Meaning the engine is out of time. Would probably still start but would be noticeable down on power, probably other issues as well.
Install timing belt, do the rotation thing, figure the timing marks are "close enough". Start car, hard starting and ran like **** with no codes. Drove around with noticeable lack of power and warm fuzzy driving it down the street. Park car in driveway, recheck timing. Marks was off from the indicator on the timing belt cover by about the width of a cam gear.. nub.. Set block to TDC, took it apart, carefully adjusted cam gear to proper TDC (read long *** breaker bar to have better control of the torque applied), reinstalled timing belt, spinny spinny on the crank, checked timing marks. Rinsed and repeated 3 times out of paranoia. Pulling grenade pine was involved somewhere in there. Everything checked out. Started it up and she purred like a kitten.
