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Yeah I think Im going to get it into good shape and wait for him. Unless I can come up with another solution. I have some friends with half *** connections as far as guys that'll come out and tune. Maybe something like that might come through but I think its very unlikely at this point.

 
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Awesome, I'd appreciate it!

 
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Hey Gerry I been following this thead for awhile and aside from the excelent fab work and welding I also like the fact that you are doing things totaly different not following what everyone else is doing.
With that in mind I have a question for ya:
Do you think that having the turbo housing soo close to the coil pack will get them very hot and cause some problems down the road?
As you can see on the picture attached below

my manifold is very close to the coil packs and they get pretty hot at times and I sense a drop of performance on a hot day after driving the car for awhile.
If you decide to fabricate an insulated shield for the coil packs similar to the one on the valve cover you have now I may concider buying one from you.

+ one for the inovative work

 
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That's probably just from temperature in general, not due to the coil packs themselves. Either the plug sparks or it doesn't. With more heat in general, you have less power, the air is less dense.

 
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Is getting very hot down here in florida.
The top cover on the coil packs look like they goin to come off.
I keep thinking that the silicon inside is going to give and short the insides.

 
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Thats why I heat wraped everything. The jet hot doesnt work as well IMO. Im also pondering cutting in some hood vents if the underhood temps get too hot for my taste. I probably could come up with a simple solution to your problem if you find that you are melting the coil packs. Maybe something similar to my trim piece but a lil longer with some insulation behind it. It may turn out to keep more heat in than out though.

 
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I have the vent on the hood right above the manifold and the valve cover so the flow of the air moves from the front of the car to the top of the hood, the coil packs are in between the air flow.
So an aerodinamic shield with a slightly curved to the top end will deflect the air away from the valve cover and towrads the hood opening.
It may even help defflect the hot air from the engine bay all together.

 
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^^thats not a bad idea.. i get wat he's saying.. im sure itll be more beneficial than not.

 
Rep Power: 297

Finally got my injectors. I zapped a quick shot of the interior. It still needs cleaning because Im in and out shitting it up. I had holes in my center console from the old safc so I made up a bracket for my XM to get rid of them. Its cheaper to put something over it than replace it haha. I also scored a new set of tenzos for $200 instead of the faded red ones. Hopefully covering the car when not driving it will keep them from fading for a while.

 
Rep Power: 297

Well just to update I'll post up. I had problems with getting the AEM box to stat sync due to the difference in crank timing belt gears between the d16 and d17. I talked to an AEM tech on the phone, sent them some pictures of the two crank gears and they hooked me up with a new calibration. Those guys are on the ball. I should have it fired up tomorrow if the rain holds out. Anyone looking to stick a D16 crank in their engine will probably need an EMS, Im not sure if Kpro is capable of making the neccesary changes. You certainly wont be using any form of piggyback tuner though.

 
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The D16 has a wide 12 tooth trigger, while the d17 has a narrow oddball 12+1 triggering system. Just another way our cars turn out to be different than all the older honda stuff. I knew I could change that stuff on the AEM so I didnt worry about it, turns out it was a bit more complex than changing a couple of parameters. Sometimes there's only one way to learn. There's no textbook on do's and dont's so trial and error is a big part in doing this stuff.

 
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true..the best teacher is experience.

are motors really are backwards huh?

 
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I would imagine it requires changing of the CAL in crank sensor, MX time, fuel teeth, spark teeth, missing teeth....Doubt any box mods itself unless they are really going left field due to lack of what works.

 
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Yeah I messed with all that plus more but there are so many different parameters and you need quite a bit of experience with an ems to hit the right combo. I even tried using the crank settings from a d16 calibration and I still couldnt get it. I wasnt saying that the kpro literally made the changes, but whether or not it could be changed. I dont have any experience with kpro so its capabilities are unknown to me. I', quite sure that the factory computer wouldnt jive with a piggyback and this crank though. Unless it can intercept the signal and modify it too, hehe.

 
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PM and maybe I can help. I have some decent AEM experience.

 
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AEM took care of it. They came up with the correct calibration pretty much as soon as I sent em the pictures of the two crank gears. Everyone says thier support sucks but I got right through and they helped me on the spot so I cant complain, hehe. I havent gotten around to tinkering on the car but it does sync up now. I just need to set my timing with the AEM box before I fire it up. I have just been real busy.

 
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Ok great!

 
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Only 97 ci???? My 102.5 ci beast pwnz j00!!!!!!

 
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lmao. yeah, I didnt feel like i was coming up short enough by picking the d17 motor so I went ahead and made it smaller haha. I did save a lot of money with that setup but looking back it was probably a lot easier just to go ahead and spend the extra money. Ahh well the 5 or 6 hundred I saved by getting hook ups on that stuff will go towards setting up the suspension. Hopefully I can find a compromise for a good 1/4mi setup that drives ok on the street without having to swap rear springs every weekend.

 
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^^^ Thats exactly what I want haha

 
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Ok back from the dead. I started figuring some stuff out and I should have this thing running soon. I pulled a whole bunch of stuff apart sunday when I got home from vaca. I'm having some stuff machined shortly and I think I have my problem solved. Everyone tryed messing with the crank trigger settings to no avail. So instead we are cutting a new profile on the D16 cam cog to match the D17 tooth specs. Turns out that I could weld to the edge of the D16 timing cog to allow build-up to cut out the new profile. If that doesnt work I have a few back-up plans. I'll post up again when I find out if this works.

 
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Please post in the proper sections!

Thanx!

 
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^^wtf...gtfo..wrong place.

 
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LMAO 5 posts, that explains it.

Dude, believe it or not, we have a spot on this forum that you can make a thread, and like post things up for sale, and people can even respond back to you. Its totally sick, you should try it. I bet you'll like it! hahahaha

 
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Lol........

 
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damn... i just read this whole thread gerry!!! very sick bro! have you, did you and are you planning to come up with different exhaust manifolds? like maybe ram or even just something EL will still keeping everything stock... for guys like me...lol. just wondering. but i'm still saving the money for the intake mani that i talked to you about a while back...well good luck with the build.

 
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Nah, its too much of a pain in the ***. I cut out a good portion of my rad support, I'm not running a/ or p/s. I don't have a car here to mock-up with and I think I'll just stick with the intake manifolds for now, hehe.

 
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oh ok thats cool, just was wondering. thanks for the heads up.