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i was just saying that because i think its just the stock civic line with an rsx fitting on the end

 
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The RSX line is between 2 and 3 feet

The Civic line is between 5 and 7 feet

I have the RSX slave with Civic Master

EDIT : USELESS

 
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Today is D day.... I'll receive my new Throtle body (for replace my fu?%$ TPS) Everything should going right after that. I'll keep you inform...

PS Only RSX type S TPS work for a k20a2... Honda haven't re use this TPS on other car....The others one work in the other sense..

 
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OK, I deleted over 400 posts in this thing to keep it in a useable format.

THIS IS NOT TO DISCUSS YOUR SWAP, THIS IS FOR SWAP QUESTIONS ONLY THAT HAVE NOT BEEN COVERED BEFORE!!!!

I'm watching this thread, so lets keep it usefull or it will get locked...

 
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CAN THE ENGINE BE DROPED FROM TOP TO BOTTOM INSTEAD USING A LIFT? USING JUST AND ENGINE LIFT AND A LEVELER????
I was thinking about using 2 heavy duty floor jacks or something like that!

 
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I drop the engine in the engine bay with a chain fall.... It's tie but easy enough to drop. Just be carreful not to kinc the fuel line, everything else pass easy. Start to bolt the rear mount (the one go on the subframe) in the bracket (big black one) and the passager side mount on the engine... Drop the engine, bolt lightely the passager mount on the car...adjust the driver side one. Tight the both mount. And after that bolt the rear one on the subframe.

 
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when you buy the jmounts... they tell you how to both swap the motor from top and from the bottom

 
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I don't understand why...But Integra Axles 94+ only fit on the passager side. On the driver side, it spend is time to go tou from the tranny. It need at less 1 inches more. I try a Civic Si 02 one, but I still have the same trouble.

Because I don't have ABS the RSX axles fit well

The engine is in is place...It's impossible to be 1 inches beside...

 
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my driver side axle was too long. i had to get a spacer to fill the gap. it was only a couple of threads but i didnt want to mess up the knuckle.

dont know what to tell you. try maybe an rsx axle with the civic si end piece. maybe they are longer. dont know why they would be but like i said, mine fit fine.

 
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Edit...bad info, forget it

Base RSX axles is the greatest fit

 
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Okay.. for those of you that would like to add in your 2 cents on how to do the k20 swap(for those of you that did it) then that would greatly be of help to everyone on this forum that either wants to do it or in the process of doing it themselves (and might have some problems)... basically it comes down to this.. i have already posted (its stickied up top) the wire harness that you need to rewire for the k20 wire harness to work on in a d17 (courtesy of dark2k1)... plus with the addtion of adding extra wiring for the 02 sensor which the d17 clip doesnt have... so what else has everyone else come into along during the swap that everyone might encounter and how to fix it??... as far as i know is the swap is straight forward with the modification of clip C101..... plus thae addition of adding the thermostat wiring and other stuff... so who has a complete everything done??... and dont say buy a wireharness thats already made.. the purpose of DIY is to learn for yourself and to save money... HAVOK says to ask the wiring questions in the I.C.E./ Electrical section but why bother when that section is basically all audio and lighting stuff anyways..

 
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EDIT

 
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I meant to ask swap wiring questions in the swap harness thread

 
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K20A – Japan Spec
• HP 220 @ 8000 rpm
• Torque 152 lb/ft @ 7000 rpm
• Redline 8400 RPMS
• Bore 86mm
• Stroke 86mm
• Comp Ratio 11.5:1
• Displacement 1998cc
• Specific output 110HP/L

Trans Specs
• 1st 3.27:1
• 2nd 2.13:1
• 3rd 1.57:1
• 4th 1.21:1
• 5th .97:1
• 6th .78:1
• Final Drive 4.765




K20A - EURO spec
• 147 kW (200 hp) @7400 rpm
• Torque 196 Nm @5900 rpm
• Redline 8100 RPMS
• Bore 87mm
• Stroke 86mm
• Comp Ratio 11,0:1
• Displacement 1998 cm3
• Specific output 100HP/L


K20A2 – US spec RSX type S motor
• 200 HP@7400 rpm
• Torque 142 lb/ft @ 6000 rpm
• Redline 8100 RPMS
• Bore 86mm
• Stroke 86mm
• Comp Ratio 11.0:1
• Displacement 1998cc
• Specific output 100HP/L

Trans Specs
• 1st 3.267
• 2nd 2.13
• 3rd 1.54
• 4th 1.14
• 5th .92
• 6th .73
• Final Drive 4.388


K20A3 – US spec Ep3 / RSX motor
• 160 HP@6500 rpm
• Torque 132 lb/ft @ 5000 rpm
• Redline 6800 RPMS
• Bore 86mm
• Stroke 86mm
• Comp Ratio 9.8:1
• Displacement 1998cc
• Specific output 80HP/L

Trans Specs
• 1st 3.662
• 2nd 1.769
• 3rd 1.212
• 4th 1.14
• 5th .92
• Final Drive 4.765


K24A2 – US spec TSX motor
• 200 HP@6800 rpm
• Torque 166 lb/ft @ 4500 rpm
• Redline 7100 RPMS
• Bore 87mm
• Stroke 99mm
• Comp Ratio 10.5:1
• Displacement 2354cc
• Specific output 88.33Hp/L

Trans Specs manual
• 1st 3.262
• 2nd 1.88
• 3rd 1.35
• 4th 1.0
• 5th .82
• 6th .659
• Final Drive 4.765


K24A – US spec CRV motor
• 160 HP@6000 rpm
• Torque 162 lb/ft @ 3600 rpm
• Redline 6500 RPMS
• Bore 87mm
• Stroke 99mm
• Comp Ratio 9.6:1
• Displacement 2354cc
• Specific output 80HP/L

Trans Specs manual
• 1st 3.262
• 2nd 1.88
• 3rd 1.35
• 4th 1.0
• 5th .82
• Final Drive 4.765




The K20A3 does not have a standard DOHC VTEC valvetrain as we know it from the B-series engines - the K20A3 should actually be called a "DOHC i-VTEC-E" engine, because it uses a VTEC-E cam setup. The K20A2 is the "real" DOHC i-VTEC engine, utilizing the standard DOHC VTEC cam setup we're all familiar with. To help you understand the differences between the K20A2 and K20A3 engines, I've included the following information from a post I made elsewhere:

Allow me to evaluate. Let's start out by defining some terms:

VTEC - Variable valve Timing and lift Electronic Control. At low RPM, a VTEC engine uses a normal cam profile to retain a smooth idle, good fuel economy, and good low-end power delivery. The VTEC mechanism engages a high-lift, long-duration "race" cam profile at a set RPM value (i.e., ~5500RPM on the B16A) to increase high-end power delivery.

VTEC-E - Variable valve Timing and lift Electronic Control for Efficiency. This system isn't really VTEC as we know it. At low RPM, the VTEC-E mechanism effectively forces the engine to operate as a 12-valve engine - one of the intake valves does not open fully, thus decreasing fuel consumption. At a set RPM value (i.e., ~2500RPM in the D16Y5), the VTEC-E mechanism engages the 2nd intake valve, effectively resuming operation as a normal 16-valve engine. Note: in a VTEC-E engine, there are no high-RPM performance cam profiles; this engine is supposed to be tuned for fuel economy, right?

VTC - Variable Timing Control. This is a mechanism attached to the end of the intake camshaft only which acts as a continuously variable cam gear - it automatically adjusts the overlap between the intake and exhaust cams, effectively allowing the engine to have the most ideal amount of valve overlap in all RPM ranges. VTC is active at all RPMs.

i-VTEC - intelligent Variable valve Timing and lift Electronic Control. This is a combination of both the VTEC and the VTC technologies - in other words, i-VTEC = VTEC + VTC. Currently, the only engines that use the i-VTEC system are the DOHC K-series engines.

Now this is where things get tricky - Honda uses the term "DOHC i-VTEC" for two different systems: The first system is used in the K20A2 engine of the RSX Type-S. The second system is used in the K20A3 engine of the Civic Si.

The First System (K20A2):

This system is pretty close to the older DOHC VTEC engines. At low RPM, the K20A2 uses a normal cam profile to retain a smooth idle, good fuel economy, and good low-end power delivery. At 5800RPM, its VTEC mechanism engages a high-lift, long-duration "race" cam profile to increase high-end power delivery. The only difference between this i-VTEC engine and the older VTEC engines is the addition of the VTC system. The intake camshaft has the automatic self-adjusting cam gear which continuously optimizes valve overlap for all RPM ranges.

Here we see an image of the intake cam lobes of the K20A2. Notice there are 3 lobes; the two side lobes are the low-RPM profiles, and the center lobe is the high-lift, long-duration profile which engages at 5800RPM. Basically the same setup as the old VTEC engines we are familiar with.



Now here we see the VTC mechanism - the gear on the end of the intake cam that adjusts valve timing (overlap) automatically on the fly.



This system is used in engines powering the JDM Honda Integra Type-R, Civic Type-R, Accord Euro-R, and the USDM Acura RSX Type-S and TSX.

The Second System (K20A3):

This system does not really conform to the "DOHC i-VTEC" nomenclature, as Honda would like us to believe. As I mentioned in my previous post, it actually should be called "i-VTEC-E," because it uses a VTEC-E mechanism rather than a standard VTEC mechanism. At low RPM, the VTEC-E system effectively forces the engine to operate as a 12-valve engine - one of the intake valves does not open fully, thus decreasing fuel consumption. At 2200RPM, the VTEC-E system engages the 2nd intake valve, effectively resuming operation as a normal 16-valve engine. There are no high-RPM performance cam profiles; this engine is tuned to balance fuel economy and power, rather than provide pure performance. On the intake cam, there is the VTC mechanism which basically is an automatic self-adjusting cam gear used to continuously optimize the valve overlap for all RPM ranges. This being a VTEC-E system - and not a true DOHC VTEC system - is the reason the K20A3 redlines at a measly 6800RPM, while the K20A2 is able to rev all the way to 7900RPM.

Here we see an image of the intake cam lobes of the K20A3. Notice there are only 2 lobes - there is a nearly round one used only for the low-RPM disabled intake valve, and then there is the regular lobe used by the other valve at low-RPM and by both valves at high-RPM:



This system is used in engines powering the USDM Acura RSX base, Honda Civic Si, Accord 4-cylinder, CRV, and Element.

Special note: The K20A3 engine used in the Acura RSX base has a slightly different intake manifold design from the K20A3 engine used in the Civic Si. The RSX engine uses a dual-stage manifold, similar in concept to the manifold of the B18C1 in the old Integra GSR. It uses long intake runners at low-RPM to retain low end power, and switches at 4700RPM to a set of shorter intake runners to enhance high-end torque. This accounts for the extra 9 ft-lb of torque in the RSX (141 ft-lb, vs. 132 ft-lb in the Civic Si).

Here is an image showing just how this dual-stage manifold works. On the top, you can see the low-RPM (long) runners are in use, and on the bottom, you can see the high-RPM (short) runners in use.



Myths:

1. The i-VTEC engine engages VTEC gradually, and not suddenly like in the old VTEC engines.

Wrong. The i-VTEC engine "engages VTEC" at a single set RPM, like always. Whoever started this rumor is a ****tard. Read the definitions above.

2. VTC engages at a set RPM.

Wrong. VTC is always activated. Read under "VTC" above.

3. The K20A3 engages VTEC at 5000+ RPM.

Wrong. Technically, there is no "VTEC" (as we think of it) in the K20A3 engine - it uses a VTEC-E technology, which engages at 2200RPM. Read under "The Second Sytem" above.

 
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if you guys do see an error and know for sure it needs to be changed then let me know.. i will change it

 
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i was sure, i was being nice... http://performance.clubrsx.com/GearRatio.xls
my helms manual agrees with 4.388. the gear ratios are right, just swap the FD

 
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there ya go.. swapped

 
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hook meh up! plzzz EA_D17A2@msn.com

 
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Check the DIY wiring swap D17 to K20 ... you gonna have more there

 
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acrua wont flask a k20A Dc5R

 
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Where is the DIY wiring convertion tread???

 
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its not a sticky anymore yet so much people ask about it.. its here for everyone looking for it

http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=206924

 
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Thank to xproductionz to host the images



About the AF sensor wiring..

The sensor itself is easy enough to wire, just plug the K20 C101 wire to the sensor.
The second one have to be wire in the E connector if my memory is correct. You must had 2 wire in it (refer to the manual shop).
The major problems is about hte Sensor heater relay, I still get a code about it, so I can't help you and I'm tired to work on this detail, so I'll take time again this summer and when I'll find how to wire it correctly I'll make a second sheet for the sensor.

But...in fact..

AF sensor : Signal + and signal - MUST be correctly wire for start the engine

Secondary 02 sensor : Only here for advise you if your cat converter work correctly(something like useless), but will sort a code if it not wire.

Heater Relay : the sensor heater is only here for heat the sensor when is cold. o2 sensor give better result when is hot, so for a better fuel effiency (when engine is cold only)is great to have this one correctly wire. But like the last one, if is not wire correctly, a code will be on (41 exactely)

The pin 7 Fan control wire is also the wire you must connect on the thermoswitch.

This one is the switch start you fan when the temp come to hot. Take the Civic one (connect on the thermostat hosing on the block) if the RSX wasn't in the radiator (or if you do like me, put a custom one with a fitting in a pipe for the switch) Connect one wire to the ground, and the other one on the FanControl wire.

About the FanC wire, I take it neer the fusebox connector (and it work), but you can take it a the C101 connector

Other Think I realize and highligted in another tread by xproductionz

you dont need the rsx throttle cable if you wanna save some cash... you can use any 92-95 civic sohc throttle cable... thats what i am using now

you dont need the fuel line, brake booster line, and purge line cause the original ones from the motor will do just fine...

you dont need the 90 accord negative battery cable.. pointless

your original shifter assembly will work with the swap so dont buy it like i did.. waste of money once again.... just buy the cables

and you dont need a custom hood latch from hasport

RSX (k20a3 model) axles gonna work too

You can use your Civic clutch master cylinder but you gonna have to make a custom line and use your Civic rubber line. The RSX line don't plug on it...

About the distribution belt... I have a 2001 dx civic without AC... The size I needed for my distribution belt is 53 1/2 inch ... Dayco have a good one in this size (7 groove)

Its highly recommended to use a RSX fuel pump because the Civic one only give the minimum a k20a2 need

 
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any idea how to fix a P0134? ... should I just get a new primary o2 sensor?

 
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In the manual shop they say... change the sensor if It was correctly fixed.... So I maybe have the same code (41) but I thought is the sensor heater relay... (I don't have a OBD2 code reader...)

 
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just go here to see the wiring sheet
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=206924

 
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hi i dont mean to hijack this thread but does anyone have or know where i can find a d17a2 to buy because ive been looking for 2 weeks with no luck anywhere

 
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hmm ... to anyone who did the swap:

what did you use for the primary o2 sensor? ... a brand new type s one is $200 ... and used ones aren't cheap either ... are there alternatives to this?

 
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This Sounds Bad But I Didn't Use One

 
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I bought one in a scrapyard