When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Plan on getting it on a dyno sometime? Curious how much power it's making.
I want to, but my buddies is still in storage, and the only other local person I have access to (without spending an arm and a leg), he's booked out 6+ months.
Tbh i'm getting pretty confident with my street tuning, utilizing both the target lambda tables + lambda percentage overlay. I agree though, numbers would be nice.
So I need to play with my weight to put more power to the ground. I started mocking up a battery relocation box (again). My plan is to put this Odyssey battery I have on the passenger side, in front of the tire against the frame. I'm hoping to get it finished this week.
Have you had it out to the drags yet this year? My best run was 14.7 with a 2.42 60’. I had some issues though with the car. Hoping I can get into 13’s with 220tw tires in the front.
I assume your car is a LX/dx with the longer gear transmission. What do you think about the 1-2 shift? Just seems like the revs drop off so much it takes so long to actually get to where the power actually is.
Haven't made it to the strip yet. The 3 hour drive one way makes it an ordeal. I have gotten a couple races down in Mexico . I'm what VQ boys fear from a dig with launch control.
I'm actually running the ex trans, with a 225 tire, and I upped my rev limiter to 7500. I'm in that weird zone where its almost out of revs at the end of the 1/4 mile in 3rd, but not far enough back to shift into 4th.
Having a similar situation but on lx trans. This run I made it to 4th. Almost worth short shifting 3rd at like 7k just to avoid the torque drop off. My rev limit is 7800 right now. I usually shift around 7200
What's the altitude of the track you run at? I did some googling on the town in your profile, and it looks like you're pretty much at sea level. You should send me your tune, if you're on kpro. I'm happy to take a look at it.
Your 60' is what's killing you right now. Me too . Basically you gotta play the balance game between higher launch control limiter, and tire traction. You might need a stickier compound, and do a burnout beforehand. You might also be running into a common 7th gen issue, where 3rd isnt tall enough to cross the 1/4 mile, but a shift to 4th without some serious hp will end up costing you, despite crossing faster. I've been mulling over ideas on how to combat this, and I only really have one plausible solution. That's for another post though.
As for short shifting, are you still running a stock cam and valve springs?
Last edited by chozobody; Jun 21, 2024 at 11:00 AM.
Hey man. Are you alive? Did you get your car running this summer? Drag racing?
I'm surviving...lol
Been busy trying to get the money together to buy a house. I'm still stuck at my parents for now, but I'm hoping to pull the trigger on something somewhere east of here within the next 6-12 months.
However that hasn't stopped me from wrenching on other things. I got me a new daily last October for $250. Swapped in a lower mileage motor that I did a heads off rebuild on, and now i'm the proud owner of a 1996 ES300 haha.
I took the civic out yesterday and today, and fixed the "burble" I was getting at idle at operating temp. I was just WAY too lean in some cells. She's ripping though.
Still haven't made it to the track since October of 23...but I'm trying. I need a shop before I can really get back at it.
Ok I took the Civic out the other day. I cleaned up my fuel maps and im ready to start breaking some hearts. Ill make sure to update this thread with video as it becomes available.
On an unrelated note, would anyone be interested in a tutorial on how to add an (affordable) knock box to our cars when running K-Pro, which would allow for greater street tuning?
What's up all you beautiful people? Sorry it's been a minute. Life has had me busy with some side work. 👀
Lets do a quick recap on my what's new.
New digital AEM boost gauge installed. I now know how much boost I'm making since it has a peak recall function.
You could say we're making some power. lol
I've yet to hook it into K-pro to record the data points, but that's on my to-do list (Thanks analog inputs!)
So on that note, I'm planning on buying a 5 bar map sensor tonight to accurately tune this car for e85. I'm still currently running E10 91 Octane so I have a bit of headroom. I fully expect to max these 1000cc injectors out well before we stop making power.
I checked the logs from my 28 pound pull and the IAT(post turbo pre intake manifold) got all the way up to 162F which was about 80-90 degrees over ambient. It's a little hotter than my liking, so I want to bring down these charge temps to boost efficiency. Ideas that I'm currently evaluating;
Intercooler water/meth spray bar
Turbo blanket
Vented carbon-fiber hood (Does anybody make an affordable "invader" style fiberglass hood for our cars?)
Remove factory bumper support and tube the front end to allow more airflow over the IC.
Aside from these ideas, my next option would be a turbo upgrade, which I really don't want to do right now, since all my piping would need to be changed (t3 currently). If I can effectively get these temps down, my plan is to run more boost w/ E85.
New map sensor arrived, but until I can get my IAT's down, adding boost over 28 lbs is pretty much pointless. Even more so with the turbo falling off at the slightest throttle close.
Water-meth is looking promising, however my brain is saying just get a bigger turbo and the same goals should be attained. 🤷🏾
A garrett T67 or something similar in a t3 flavor is what im looking into.
Hey good to hear you’re still alive. I can help answer some of your questions and ask some other questions that might help you achieve clarity. The d17 turbo world has made some progress in the last few months with me being a big part of that.
what turbo are you currently running? What is your downpipe and exhaust setup? What intercooler and which camshaft?
Myself and another guy recently had our cars on the dyno and we learned some stuff. He was hitting a wall at 300hp. I was hitting a wall at 350hp but we can get into what’s a real constraint and what’s self inflicted.
first up intercoolers:
if you’re running a tube and fin, this will be an issue. My charge temps are never above 120 with a bar and plate intercooler. I have the old dezod v3 that came with their kit. But the other guy has similar issues to you
in addition to air temps- water/meth:
it makes a minor difference. On my car 93 pump gas, I stopped getting power gains around 330whp at 15psi. With the meth turned on and some added timing and fueling adjustments, I was able to get to 350hp at 18psi but I picked up 20lbft of toque basically all over from 4k to redline
downpipes and exhaust:
if you want to break 350 you need 3”. I’m running 2.5” downpipe to 2.5” catback that’s actually very quiet and tame and has great fitment. I ditched the 3” catback for the above mentioned reasons. This likely cost me some top end power. The dyno doesn’t lie. This is where my setup fell off.
camshaft:
im running crower stage 2 turbo. Im happy with it. I’m definitely curious about a d16y/z 3 lobe setup and running like a speed factory street savage cam but my head clearly flows with what I’ve got. The other guy was running a nonvtec head with a crower regrind. That may have contributed to his 300hp limit. (Also if you have your head off make sure to lap your valves. I’m running ferrea 5000 NA flat valves for a little more compression. I swear it makes a difference)
turbo selection:
smaller turbo is better. I’ve run 4 different turbos over the years- t3/t4 50 trim .48ar hot side, 57trim .63ar hot side, Borg s256sx .48ar, and finally gt2871r-52trim 0.63ar.
the 50 trim was a good match. It just failed so for a journal bearing this is probably the best way to go for a sub 400hp turbo.
the 57trim was so laggy i ran it for like a month tops. Hated it but I wasn’t chasing big power like I am now.
s256sx is a good turbo. A bit laggy but not dramatically different from the 50 trim despite being a bigger turbo. I really like it. Super reliable. It can make insane power but decently efficient down low. With a 0.48ar hot side it was a bit of a weird setup. Fast turbine but still a big compressor. So some lag and actually felt like it wanted a lot more boost to make power (20+). As I saw on the dyno I was just inefficient at that pressure
gt28. Ball bearing turbos rock! I spool 600rpm sooner which you definitely feel. I was making 260whp on gate pressure (9ish psi). My car is happiest at 15psi as stated above. It feels faster than it was with my old tune at 20+.
if I were to do this all again I would probably go with a g25-550 or the well known off-brand pulsar 4849g. This would get even more low end spool and have more top end. It’s an affordable turbo. Run a vband adapter and vband turbine housing and 3” exhaust. Doing all that no doubt I could break 400hp.
For fueling I’m running 625cc fic injectors and a return fuel setup. I still have a decent amount of injector left. No e85 up in Canada.
running stage 4 clutch and it’s still holding up but at some point I imagine that would be a limiting factor.
what turbo are you currently running? What is your downpipe and exhaust setup? What intercooler and which camshaft? Turbo is an ebay T3 .48 A/R 2.5" cold side outlet, DP is a 3" reduced to a 2.5 the rest of the way back, Intercooler is a "same side" Ebay special, I'm also running the crower stage 2 turbo cam.
Myself and another guy recently had our cars on the dyno and we learned some stuff. He was hitting a wall at 300hp. I was hitting a wall at 350hp but we can get into what’s a real constraint and what’s self inflicted.
first up intercoolers:
if you’re running a tube and fin, this will be an issue. My charge temps are never above 120 with a bar and plate intercooler. I have the old dezod v3 that came with their kit. But the other guy has similar issues to you
Part of my problem is my placement. My OE bumper is still in place, and my IC is pretty much dead-nuts centered on it, so my plan is to build something of a bash bar, and modify my front bumper for more airflow.
in addition to air temps- water/meth:
it makes a minor difference. On my car 93 pump gas, I stopped getting power gains around 330whp at 15psi. With the meth turned on and some added timing and fueling adjustments, I was able to get to 350hp at 18psi but I picked up 20lbft of toque basically all over from 4k to redline
downpipes and exhaust:
if you want to break 350 you need 3”. I’m running 2.5” downpipe to 2.5” catback that’s actually very quiet and tame and has great fitment. I ditched the 3” catback for the above mentioned reasons. This likely cost me some top end power. The dyno doesn’t lie. This is where my setup fell off.
camshaft:
im running crower stage 2 turbo. Im happy with it. I’m definitely curious about a d16y/z 3 lobe setup and running like a speed factory street savage cam but my head clearly flows with what I’ve got. The other guy was running a nonvtec head with a crower regrind. That may have contributed to his 300hp limit. (Also if you have your head off make sure to lap your valves. I’m running ferrea 5000 NA flat valves for a little more compression. I swear it makes a difference)
I have a ported and polished head, along with my stage 2 crower cam. I don't have any issues with it, and it's not terrible at idle.
turbo selection:
smaller turbo is better. I’ve run 4 different turbos over the years- t3/t4 50 trim .48ar hot side, 57trim .63ar hot side, Borg s256sx .48ar, and finally gt2871r-52trim 0.63ar.
Part of me thinks mine is too small. It isn't holding boost when I get higher in the rev range. Spools super quick, but is struggling above 6000. However, that could also be mitigated with a reduction of intake temps. Below are the "specs" of what i'm running.
•0.42 A/R Compressor Wheel (Cold Side)
•EXD 60.10mm
•IND 42.50
•12 Blades (6 long,6 short)
•0.48 A/R Turbine Wheel (Hot Side)
•EXD 64.00mm
•IND 46.30
All things considered, a new turbo probably won't happen until after I make some airflow modifications for my IC, along with water/methanol injection. One thing I am learning is that heatsoak is cutting into my back-to back pull time. I really want a vented VIS racing hood, but 1200 is a little steep for that, in this economy 😂. Dyno numbers are also badly needed, so ill post them whenever I manager to get them.
Good hearing from you!
On another note, I have begun the hunt for my first house. Ill hopefully have a real shop to work on the civic (and my other projects) in all year round within the next couple months.
Super cool, dude. Just got the keys to my first place today so I finally have a garage to do stuff again lol. It's been too cramped at my parents'. Can't wait to finally get working on the FRS - it's long overdue
Quick placeholder for myself. I'm noticing some significant voltage drop coinciding with the moment my throttle snaps shut, when coming off a high boost pull. At first, my brain wanted to think it was the alternator belt slipping, however after looking at the logs my voltage is steady until the exact moment the throttle closes and the tps reading begins to decrease. I'm going to start with the basics and make sure my grounds are good all around. Not sure what the next step after that would be.
Either way, Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays ya'll.
Lil update regarding some of the previous issues I was having with my Kpro and the Daughterboard communication errors I was receiving occasionally after cranking.
Well it turns out Hondata doesn't play nicely with Odyssey batteries, since the amperage drop during cranking from them is too significant for the ECU to account for. Hondata also states that battery relocations can cause this issue, so keep that in mind if you're seeing this issue with a factory battery. My plan is to replace my PC680 with a Braille B2015, which is the recommended brand by Hondata. Similar physical size (Although I will need to fab a new battery box, but over double the CCA over a Longer duration than what I have now.
. I'm what VQ boys fear from a dig with launch control. 
. Basically you gotta play the balance game between higher launch control limiter, and tire traction. You might need a stickier compound, and do a burnout beforehand. You might also be running into a common 7th gen issue, where 3rd isnt tall enough to cross the 1/4 mile, but a shift to 4th without some serious hp will end up costing you, despite crossing faster. I've been mulling over ideas on how to combat this, and I only really have one plausible solution. That's for another post though. 
