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I want to tell you everything that was going on to maybe help diagnose the issue.
Last Thursday night it wouldn't start. Got a jump and it started with no issue and I let it run for about 20 minutes before turning it off. Friday morning it wouldn't start and I took the batter to autozone to get checked and charged. They said the battery was good and tested the alternator and said it was bad. Then I replaced the alternator. Car started with no issue. Then Sunday at noon I tried to start my car and it wouldn't start. So got it jumped and took it to Firestone and they said my battery isn't keeping a charge so they replaced it. And Monday I filled my tank. Tuesday afternoon I tried to start it and it had a rough start but it did and I backed up and put it in drive and it stopped. So I tried to jump the battery and wouldn't work and the battery light came on this time. So I checked the alternator belt and the connector but the connector came off with out me having to press the tab in. I’m not sure what is going on. My mechanic is saying it’s the ecu but from everything I’ve looked up and read sounds like the main relay. Please help.

 
Rep Power: 367

what do you mean connector?
also, check if the alternator bolts loose. That tends to kill ECU's with voltage fluctuations

OE alternator is recommended, many stories of remanufactured/aftermarket not working well

 
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what I mean by connector is the plug that gets plugged into the alternator and also splits to the battery I believe. Has a ring that goes over a bolt on the alternator and nut screwed in to keep in place.

 
Rep Power: 367

that could cause voltage fluctuations...
Before going into the ECU, try to get everything checked.
Lots of alternators being returned because they don't work well, BTW...

 
Rep Power: 367

an ad for alternator just popped up in our marketplace, BTW.
and it is in TX.

 
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So sent in my ecu to ModuleExperts, and they told me the computer chip is completely fried and will have to send me a whole new refurbished one to replace it. I just hope that is actually all that’s wrong with my car. Still waiting for the part to be sent to me.

 
Rep Power: 367

after replacement, you will need program keys to it

 
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Ok so a month later no further progress. Ended up taking it to a Honda dealership and took them 2 weeks to tell me it was my fuel pump….well it wasn’t my fuel pump. They told me that the reason they said that was because I wasn’t getting compression with my other one, around 10 psi. So they said it started then stalled and died and couldn’t start it again but now holding the proper compression, 41-44 psi. My personal mechanic said the pump was fine and he thinks its an electrical issue, prior to me taking to the dealership for diagnostics. Now they tested it and saying the car is out of timing. So they recommend that i get a new engine. Are any of these signs of a timing belt jumping? And if anyone in Texas would like to help me out, please let me know. Not in a position to buy a new car. Also don’t want to buy an engine and that’s not the issue.

 
Rep Power: 222

Not hard to check the mechanical timing...

 
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I understand that. However, I was referring to the symptoms I mentioned in my first comment. Currently do not have my car to check at the moment.

 
Rep Power: 126

Has the check engine light been on at any point? If timing was off, it'd be in limp mode and throw a code.

What's the mileage? What mileage did you get the car?

 
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When my mechanic looked at it only code was the cat low efficiency code, which I’ve had prior to all this. Since the ecm was replaced, I haven’t been told anything about any codes. I got the car at 110k, it’s at 160k

 
Rep Power: 126

You got it right around when the timing belt should have been done. Did you ever do it/was there ever proof of it being done?

 
Rep Power: 367

ask them to check if cat is plugged?

 
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I was told all of that was done, but I didn’t have it checked again in the 6 years I’ve had the car.

 
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it’s a new cat I had put on last year Halloween. Check engine light went off for like 5 miles and came back and haven’t been able to figure it out since then.

 
Rep Power: 222

still p0420? Cheap aftermarket cat, Hondas are picky

 
Rep Power: 367

then the o2 sensors. Or your dying ECU (replaced now)

 
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02 sensors were replaced with cat. And ecu has been replaced.

 
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Probably. I went where a friend recommended me to get one.

 
Rep Power: 222

Put a defouler on the secondary o2, should go away