Tie Bars and Sway bars
Originally Posted by Zzyzx
have fun with that thing, but take it easy at first.... Ease in to it. and most importantly, when the rear end starts coming around on you DO NOT HIT THE BRAKES OR LIFT OFF THE THROTTLE!!!! do some thing usefull instead, like add in more throttle 
What do you mean don't hit the brakes? Oh boy!! Is it going to be like really hard to handle the back of the car after installing these bars or do you mean only with the rear one installed? I'm surprised at this; I wouldn't had imagine that our FWDs would spin out of control, hmmm...
By the way, I ordered my tokicos Nindo. The seller is here in FL and said I'll get them before Friday, just in time to install them on Saturday. Yeah!!!, he he, sorry guys, I'm excited...
One thing though, will I need a vice to hold them while they are being drilled or can it be done at hand with another person? My Dad's pretty handy with tools, so I think it'll be ok, I'd just like to make sure.
Nindo, seems like we'll get our cars set up the same way but at diferent times. this is cool, we'll be able to compare.
Last edited by cubanmike26; Oct 25, 2004 at 04:09 PM.
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Well, with a FWD car there are 2 primary ways to get the rear end to rotate for you. (Intentionaly or not)
1. Carrying the brakes too hard Too long in to a corner. (All the wieght is on the nose making the rear end light and slide prone)
2. Lifting off the gas or hitting the brakes mid corner. (Simmilar to above, by doing either of these, you are forcing more weight off the rear and on to the front)
With some pratice (I suggest learning on an autocross course) you can use these two oversteer inducing manuvers to help you take turns Faster and correct for understeer mid corner.
An example of the process may go something like this.
1. as you enter the turn, you should be Threashold braking and Downshifting to the proper corner exit gear (The one that should put you in the powerband for maximum corner exit acceleration).
2. Keep on the brakes as you enter the turn, this should start to get the rear end to slide. (You should be coming off the brakes by now).
3. With the rear end sliding, you should start to add in more throttle just before the car is pointed in the direction you want to go. This should settle the rear end down, and allow you to accelerate out of the corner.
THere are some issues with doing this, such as the amount of Trail braking you need to get the rear end to rotate, and how fast the car actually rotates... But with some time and experamenting, you shoud be able to steer the car with the rear end.
1. Carrying the brakes too hard Too long in to a corner. (All the wieght is on the nose making the rear end light and slide prone)
2. Lifting off the gas or hitting the brakes mid corner. (Simmilar to above, by doing either of these, you are forcing more weight off the rear and on to the front)
With some pratice (I suggest learning on an autocross course) you can use these two oversteer inducing manuvers to help you take turns Faster and correct for understeer mid corner.
An example of the process may go something like this.
1. as you enter the turn, you should be Threashold braking and Downshifting to the proper corner exit gear (The one that should put you in the powerband for maximum corner exit acceleration).
2. Keep on the brakes as you enter the turn, this should start to get the rear end to slide. (You should be coming off the brakes by now).
3. With the rear end sliding, you should start to add in more throttle just before the car is pointed in the direction you want to go. This should settle the rear end down, and allow you to accelerate out of the corner.
THere are some issues with doing this, such as the amount of Trail braking you need to get the rear end to rotate, and how fast the car actually rotates... But with some time and experamenting, you shoud be able to steer the car with the rear end.
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Rep Power: 304 This sounds like a lot of fun!!!!!
Rear end is gonna be hanging all over place. I might install it after the winter, I just had my car rust proofed. Hmmmmmmmmm I really wanted to get have a bit of fun before the snow hits.
CubanMike26 where did you buy your tokicos? I might like to buy from the same place.
Rear end is gonna be hanging all over place. I might install it after the winter, I just had my car rust proofed. Hmmmmmmmmm I really wanted to get have a bit of fun before the snow hits.
CubanMike26 where did you buy your tokicos? I might like to buy from the same place.
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Rep Power: 380 nindoo, its probably a good idea to leave the larger rear bar off for winter, as a heavily rear biased car tends to not be all that stable in low traction conditions.... You may want to swap between the two for winter, and Drive more carefully when its wet out. I dont have all that much experiance in the snow, but I can tell you that a rear biased FWD car in the rain will want to bring the rear end around Sooner and Much more often then when its dry out.
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Rep Power: 304 I wonder how much work it would be to switch between these two set-ups
1)have a set of tokico shocks with lowering springs for the summer
2)and keep a set of OEM shocks and OEM springs with lowering springs for the winter.
Is it feasible. I've never installed new shocks and springs before, I'll be helping my friend replace the shocks on his uncle's car this weekend.
1)have a set of tokico shocks with lowering springs for the summer
2)and keep a set of OEM shocks and OEM springs with lowering springs for the winter.
Is it feasible. I've never installed new shocks and springs before, I'll be helping my friend replace the shocks on his uncle's car this weekend.
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Rep Power: 412 don't bother swaping the springs and shocks out. I mean you can if you want to, but every time you do it will take up time, increase the chance you will fvck something up, and you will have to get an alignment 2 times a year.
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Rep Power: 304 With the progress bar I received to bushings with metal covers. What if instead of the rubber component a solid light metal was used, and maybe have a smaller rubber hose inside to grip the bar? Why is rubber used? Is it to absorb impact that would eventually damage the car?
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Rep Power: 380 Its more of a Reducing Vibrations thing... You could use a solid metal bushing as they would get rid of all diflection and make the bar work at its fullest potential, but it would be squeaky, and you'd feel a whole lot more of the road... Great for race cars, not so much for street cars. (especially when picking up a date).
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Rep Power: 304 There only so much discomfort one can tolerate in daily driving.
The best would be to pick up a date in a car with all the interior ripped out and a plastic seat(with no cusions as the pasenger seat). And the date would also have to meet a certain weight requirement. I guess I wouldn't get many second dates.
Even first dates for that matter!
The best would be to pick up a date in a car with all the interior ripped out and a plastic seat(with no cusions as the pasenger seat). And the date would also have to meet a certain weight requirement. I guess I wouldn't get many second dates.
Even first dates for that matter! Last edited by nindoo; Oct 27, 2004 at 06:34 PM.
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Rep Power: 304 I installed the progress sway-bar tie bar combo and its making too much noise. I think its rubbing against the exhaust. I'm rolling and the back is making noise all the time. In terms of performance I didn't push the car I was afraid since it was raining and the tail end of the car was slipping on some turns and I was just throttling. Nothing crazy I'll keep you updated on the performace. I'm feeling down cause of all the noise the darn thing makes.
Could some it be attributed to the fact that I didn't grease the bushings?
Could some it be attributed to the fact that I didn't grease the bushings?
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Rep Power: 412 did you put it in right? make sure it isn't upside down, also make sure that the endlinks are adjusted properly. you should be able to tell if you are hitting the exhaust by looking at it. What exhaust and are you lowered?
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Rep Power: 412 They should be able to move around a bit. I also think Grey designed them so they could be slightly adjustable. Can you see what is hitting the bar by looking at it?
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Rep Power: 304 There is one big thing I noticed just now.
You see the bolt that going through the tie bar into the sway bar I didn't put it.
I only put the two on the side that go through the bushings of the anti-roll bar and go through the tie bar to the piece linking the control arms.
You see the bolt that going through the tie bar into the sway bar I didn't put it.
I only put the two on the side that go through the bushings of the anti-roll bar and go through the tie bar to the piece linking the control arms.
Last edited by nindoo; Oct 30, 2004 at 08:51 PM.
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Rep Power: 0 Man I Cant Wait To Get Home And Put All Of My Stuff On. Dang Im So Excited But I Have To Wait Until I Get My License Back And My Car A New Inssurance Pollicy Before I Can Take It Out And Rip It Up. But Man Im So Excited.
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Originally Posted by nindoo
I hope I don't damage my car I have to go to my friends house to fix it, hese 20mins away.
Hey Nindo,
How did your install go with the sway bar? Was it just a direct bolt on thing or did you have to drill into the control arms as well? My 04 LX brings both OEM sway bars with all the bolts everywhere, so it won't be that hard to take off and put the new ones on, I hope. Did you run into any problems? Any pros or cons performance wise?
How did your install go with the sway bar? Was it just a direct bolt on thing or did you have to drill into the control arms as well? My 04 LX brings both OEM sway bars with all the bolts everywhere, so it won't be that hard to take off and put the new ones on, I hope. Did you run into any problems? Any pros or cons performance wise?
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Rep Power: 304 Well so far I think I've installed it wrong I'm gonna fix it in the afternoon.
I haven't had a chance to push it since I'm worried about the noise. I didn't need to drill any holes.
It should be fairly simple to install I just did something wring cause I'm pretty sure it shouldn'r be making noise when I'm driving.
I haven't had a chance to push it since I'm worried about the noise. I didn't need to drill any holes.
It should be fairly simple to install I just did something wring cause I'm pretty sure it shouldn'r be making noise when I'm driving.
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Rep Power: 304 I think I've isolated the problem, The bar is touching the exhaust resonator from the back and its rubbing agaisnt the left and right control arms(I noticed some paint coming of the sway bar. So what I'll do is loosen the endlinks rotate the bar upwards that way it will have more room to clear the endlinks and resonator, but it will be closer to the exhasut pipe. I hope this works
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Originally Posted by nindoo
I think I've isolated the problem, The bar is touching the exhaust resonator from the back and its rubbing agaisnt the left and right control arms(I noticed some paint coming of the sway bar. So what I'll do is loosen the endlinks rotate the bar upwards that way it will have more room to clear the endlinks and resonator, but it will be closer to the exhasut pipe. I hope this works
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Originally Posted by robbclark1
If it is touching the control arms, it might be on upside down. I did that at first. Make sure you have it on the right way. But if you do, just rotate the endlinks up.
Rob guess what,
My bar is upside freaking down!
You are the man!
I feel a bit better now. I hope everything is still a ok.
Last edited by nindoo; Oct 31, 2004 at 10:30 AM.
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Rep Power: 412 I know, i know...I'm da man!! haha j/k
Just passing on my information from my own stupidity! Let us know how it turns out.
Just passing on my information from my own stupidity! Let us know how it turns out.
^^^I wouldn't say stupidity. More like trial and error. After all, I'm sure you didn't have anyone to tell you how to install it, like must of us. Sometimes, even with the instructions can be a mess.
