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sounds like you havent tuned many FWD cars... You dont want the front bar any way.

Personally I've came to the conclusion that for autocross your probably better off with the Hotchkis 27mm rear bar, and they do sell that seperatly.


also, You may want to look in to the camber plates that Hotchkis sells too.

 
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You are right about that I started autocrossing in a miata. This will be a first for me so please don't flame me too much.
I would like to have something better then what I have but smaller than the rear

I most likely will go with the Hotckis 27mm rear and look into the camber plates.

 
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I would call hotchkis to make sure the camber plates work with any type of after market shock. Also, the 27 mm rear sway they say is only for autox, so please be careful with your car if you get it. I would get a 1" stock front sway bar if you are going that large in the rear, but whatever. It also depends on your springs and the difference in rates from front to rear.

 
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No flames here, but given the above, I assume you havent driven a FWD car at its limits much either?? If you havent then Heed Robbclark and take it easy if/when you do get that 27mm rear bar. The car will behave Very differently then a RWD miata. heres a tip though... If you get your FWD car to oversteer, the absolute worst things you can do is hit the brakes or Lift off the gas (BOth will transfer more weight off the rear end and make the oversteer worse) the better option would be to add in more throttle.


This depends greatly on what spring rate you run and how much negitive camber you plan on running... but Be aware, with FWD if you run a lot of roll resistance on the nose, you'll also cause more inside wheel spin on corner exits.

(I have Eibach sportlines (15-20% stiffer then stock) and I've actually down sized my front bar to the 15.9mm, and Upped the rear to a 25.4mm)

Like robb said, It may be a good Idea to call Hotchkiss and see what springs the camber kit will work with...


Other wise, Have fun with your new FWD autocross car... and if any one tells you FWD doesnt oversteer smack them once and then lift mid turn..

 
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I just oredered a cold air intake and front and rear strut bars for my 2004 civic coupe, and am wondering if the cold air intake will be in the way when I try to install the front strut bar.

 
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I have lowered my 04 coupe with springs only, it looks a lot better, I would like to stiffen it up a little bit for cornering. are the eibach front and rear sway bars worth it, or is there a better brand or type out there?

 
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The only strut bars that will work with a CAI is the DC sports and the neuspeed, in which the neuspeed is far superior. No one I know has the eibach sway kit. There are better (ie larger) sets out that are cheaper. You have to figure out what you want out of your car. Read the FAQ and the suspension Tuning 101.

 
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Thanks robclark. good info.

 
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Just in case you might be interested, there's a group buy going on as we speak hosted by Dezod for both the Progress Front & Rear Sway Bars on the GB section. Check it out, it's a good deal.

 
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The progress bar because of the way its shaped breaks the stock endlinks .We have the same endlinks have the RSX.

 
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What is the disadvantage of having an ultra stiff rear anti-roll bar as oppose to the puny stock one. Will the ride quality be dramatically reduced or not at all?

 
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You will feel Certin types of bumps more, otherwise Ride quality should remain pretty much un-effected.

 
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Zzyzx did you change both the rear and front lower control arm bushings?

Do the polyeurathne bushings have longer life?

When you upgraded the busghings how did the feeling of the car change? Did the steering feel more response and precise.

Do the bushings affect ride quality and noise?

 
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I've only canged out the front bushings. so far.

polyeurathne will last much longer.

steering was a bit more responsive

Ride quality did decreas a bit, I didnt notice an increase in noise.

 
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Guys, I finally got both sway bars installed and they feel awesome as far as handling on the car. Wow! what a big diference in control. My car barely body rolls now, it's almost as if it sticks to the ground. One thing though, Grey mentioned on his DIY that you could adjust the strength of the rear sway bar. How is this attained?

 
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Nice, does the bar make any noise?

I think you can loosen the endlinks and straighten them then tighten them when the suspension in under load. Zzyzx was mentioning how its better to adjust the bar when the suspension is loaded.

 
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^^^Well, to be honest I do have noises coming from the bars when I'm driving on smooth terrains at slow speeds. From what I can tell, it sounds like it's coming from the front bar, but I actually think it's the front endlinks just kind of vibrating with the car, since they are not under any load. The rear bar I don't think it has any load either but mostly it just seems like the noise comes from the front. Nindo, these bars are great man. The improvement in handling was considerably better. When turning on a curve, it almost feels as if the cars sticks to the ground. No more body roll, amzing!!

 
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Wicked!! You got yourself a go-kart thats street legal.

 
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LOL, yep. I think I'll start saving for a k20 now. okkkkkk, yeahhhh!!!!

 
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I was about to do that before OKAY!!!!! WHAT!!!! WHAT!!!!!!! YEAH!!!!

I was thinking of getting a Type S instead of upgrading the civic. I'm not sure yet, its cheaper to buy the type S.

 
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Well, upgrading the Vic won't be even close to what you'd end up paying for a type S. Think about it, for that I might as well get an STi then you'd be talking!! I mean I wouldn't pay $2500 for a turbo on a Vic to only take it up to 140 whp, wtf?? For that matter I simply save for a new k20.

LOL, yep. I think I'll start saving for a k20 now. okkkkkk, yeahhhh!!!!

Man!! I really wish we AutoX down here in Miami. The closest track is 200 miles from here, too damn far. They should really build one since everyone around here races on the streets and there are way too many accidents.

Zzyzx, do you think that the Cusco Rear strut Bar for the RSX would help some more on the handling part for the vic?

 
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I think it would make for an excelent place to strap down your subwoofer so it doesnt roll around in the trunk when you corner.... See, the rear end is a double wish bone type suspension... Meaning the shock (and its mounts) its self doesnt really see much lataral force applyed to it that would cause the upper mount to flex (what a tie bar is designed to reduce), as that force is focused through the control arms (Upper and lower). So, ya it may help a little... but your reinforcing a part that doenst see a whole lot of stress...

 
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Got you, thanks!

 
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Well if you upgade the suspension and swap the engine and add the cost of the ex coupe the car ends up costing more then the stock type S.

 
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I'm glad I have an LX then

 
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Anyone needs any Front sways? Lemme know....I have 2 in stock, ready to rock.

 
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^^^There's the man I've got them from. Thanks again Dezod!!
The bars are working great.

 
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Glad you like Mike.

 
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I hate to piggyback on this thread but I wanted to ask how you got the rear mount bushings pressed out? I was able to get the front ones out no problem, it was a straight shot with a press. However, I can't get to the rear ones with a press (bad angle / front portion in the way). Someone suggested that I melt the rubber bushing with a torch and knock out the remaining metal casing with a hammer and punch. Your advice?

 
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Did you trim off the metal cap on the out side edge? if you did, then you can press them out that way... Thats what we did at least.