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I know I keep jumping back and forth, but I think the best option for me will be grey endlinks and the progress bar. The other tie bars are harder to come by.

 
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this could be a sticky....

 
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If you wait a few months, there may be a 25.4mm Hochkis rear bar on the market.... Slightly used. But it really depends if I can get the rotation I want out of the car with alignment adjustments.... if I cant, then the Hochkis 27mm bar may be on order...

 
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Zzyzx I should have read your post 5 mins ago.
I just ordered the progress bar from TrueHonda.

I was in a bit of a dilema. I didn't know whether to order 2 endlinks or 4. I'm going to most certainly replace the rear endlinks, do you think its a good idea to replace the front ones as well with the oem bar?

 
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Just buy 2. The front endlinks will be fine with a stock bar.

Just a notice to everyone. The 2005 RSX has a 21mm rear bar. It could be of interest to some people. I have no idea how much it costs, call Acura. Its just another step in the sway bar ladder to choose from. Endlinks of suffecient strength to support it should also be available and should bolt right in.

 
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Do you think I can cover the exhaust with something that wont burn that will not allow the exhaust and progress bar to rub causing the paint to come off the bar. I saw some motorcycles and racecars where some of the pipes were covered with this stuff that looked like seat belts from a car. Its better if I can avoid the rubbing cause in Montreal a lot of salt is thrown on the roads during the winter and I don't want that area to corrode.

 
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^^^I remember reading about that stuff to isolate the bar from the exhaust. I'll see if I can find it. They also mentioned it eliminates the squiking noises the bars may cause from rubbing on the exhaust.

 
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Exhaust wraps

 
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yup, "that stuff"

 
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I wonder if the'll have anything similar at my local hardware shop.

 
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When you have a strong chassis that doesn't flex and is more rigid than another chassis what is the benifit? Do the cars rigidity allow it to handle better, or it allows you to push the car harder on turns without breaking or damaging it? Does a poor chassis brake if you push it hard as oppose to a good strong chassis?

I think I'm on the wrong track associating a good chassis to one that doesn't flex which means it has less chances of braking.

 
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A stiffer chassis allows the suspension to do its job better.

 
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a Flexible chassis basicaly acts like a Very large un-dampend spring.... and if its flexible enough it can make tuning the handling of the car near impossible. So the stiffer the chassis, the less the chassis flex influences the handling of the car.

 
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What are your feelings on this 7thgen chassis zz?

 
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I dont really have any complaints about the chassis its self. Having struts on the noes, causes a bit more stress/flex to happen with the shock towers (double wish bone suspensions put suprisingly little stress on the shock mounts) but its not a real big issue, due to the strut towers being mounted so close to the fire wall. The rear end seems to be stiff, as the shocks are mounted right in to the floor pan, and its a trailing arm suspension any ways, so theres not much stress going to the shock mounts any way. My only real complaint would have to be about the suspension bushings, as the front lower control arm bushings are Very soft and they get torn up quicky (Making steering responce slugish). other then that, the OEM shocks have to go as they are way too soft for any spirited driving (once again Sluggish responce). So basically, get rid of the OEM shocks, Repace the suspension bushings, get some good tires, then Find some decent springs and then fiddle with the anti-roll bars and you can have a Very fun to drive car pretty easily/cheeply.

 
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I've already done sway bars, tower brace, and tires. I'm still disappointed. I know the shocks are junk, but I have been wondering if the cost of new springs, struts, camber kit, and an alignment would really be worth it. I didn't think of those bushings, and my steering response has gone to hell recently, thanks for the tip I'll have to check out their condition soon.

 
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When I finaly got konis, it was a Night and day difference in steering responce and handling in general. (I started Hitting Apex cones....)

... Considering you got an 01s 25.4mm front bar, your either going to want to get a larger rear bar (I hear The 05 RSX-S has a 21mm rear bar, or get one of the many 22mm bars) I wouldnt go back to your stock 15.9mm bar unless you got stiffer springs.

But seriously look in to Better shocks, as most cars come from the factory severly under Dampened, I know ours did. (Koni are more performance based, but the Tokico Hp's would be a good comprimise... or the D-tune (??? I think thats what they are called) shocks that Tokico just came out with.

other then that, the stock springs are a bit soft, and they are tuned to make the car understeer.....

This is the latest shot of my car Mid corner, just about to lift the inside rear tire.. even at its limits, with relitivly soft springs, there isnt much body roll, and the car really bites in and turns.... (I'm running an 03 15.9mm front bar and a Hochkis 25.4mm rear on Koni shocks with Eibach sportline springs, if you remeber from before.)

(Havent we had this conversation before?)

 
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LOL

sorry bud, but your the man with all the knowledge.

When I replace my shocks with the Tokico D-specs, will them come with bushings or they advise to use stock bushings? I am confused as to which bushings to buy. Cause there are complete polyeurathane sets that cost $ 100

http://dezod.com/pd_energy.cfm

Do I need all those? I didn't want to spend so much for bushings.

 
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Pretty much yes, lately I've been doing more thinking than spending. Unfortunately, $1k is a lot for me to shell out and possibly be unhappy with.

I'm still with the bigger front sway exactly because of the soft spring issue, I was tired of bottoming out. With the rear, I haven't gone to a 22mm rear sway because of the reinforcement issue and the soft spring issue. So the next logical step is probably springs/struts/camberkit/alignment (~950$), which I should have done to begin with, and fine tuned with the sways. Nice pic BTW.

 
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No you dont want that, as its for the Si.... The front lower control arm bushings get torn up the most and a set of Energy suspension bushings for them will run you about $25, and its 4 bushings.

Front control arm bushing Part # from Energy suspensions site :16.3116
Rear Control arm bushings par # 16.3118
This is what you replace...

 
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Thanks For the info. I've emailed energy suspension.

I'm getting impatient waiting for my progress bar and my grey endlinks. I want to install the darn things and drive around. I wanted to receive these items before I ordered my shocks and springs. The way its looking I wont be able to install the shocks and springs till after the winter.

 
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I can understand running the bigger bar on the nose with the stock springs. as far as a bigger rear... I have a 25.4mm rear with no reinforcemten and a half a season of autocross on it. havent seen any problems yet.

THe one part I can see that will give you the best improvent would be shocks. Seriously. Konis would be the best choice, but the tokicos, HP or D-Spec would work fine.

 
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hey spence, you want to get some spare control arms and press my bushings in for me?

 
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Oh boy here we go again. Guys, I too like Nindo am considering the Progress bars at a great price from Dezod, but I wanted the Tokicos as well. I remember Zzyzx recommended me to get the new shocks first but darm, I just don't want to miss on such a great deal for both rear sway bars. $255 for both front & rear + shipping. What do you guys recommend first? Tokicos would be $350 shipped, but the seller say whenever I could so time's not a problem. Regarding energy suspension bushings, if I get the whole set for my suspension, how much will I be looking to spend on installation? And finally, in order to have the appropiate set up, the bars should be 27mm front & 22mm rear right?

 
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Any speacial tools required to push the bushing into the control arms

 
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Yes, you need a really big press, like the one that Zzyzx has on the pics.

 
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If theres a good deal on the anti-roll bars then go for it. as far as an appropriate setup.... depends on what you are seting the car up for. If its just a street driven car, then the 27MM front with a 22mm rear would be fine, you should have much better handling then stock with little body roll. If you are doing open track or autocross, you are not going to want that 27mm front bar....

 
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Just received my progress rear sway/tie bar combo, I'm still waiting for my endlinks. Paid too much customs brokerage fees on it. I'll be installing it this weekend, I'll keep you guys posted.

 
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have fun with that thing, but take it easy at first.... Ease in to it. and most importantly, when the rear end starts coming around on you DO NOT HIT THE BRAKES OR LIFT OFF THE THROTTLE!!!! do some thing usefull instead, like add in more throttle

 
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Thanks for the heads up I get easily excited!

its gonna be freakin cool!

I use to get impressed when i saw cars get sideways and people do burnouts and 360's and stuff.

I drove my friends 1990 BMW 525 i. I launched the car hard, it was cool it would twist slightly sideways and then straighten out. I was taking turns and oversteering making the car slide with the a$s slightly hanging out, throttle more and change my steering direction to go straight. I did some spins with it, it was ok but you could really tell it was a heavy car.