The Parasitic draw
Working on son's 2009 civic hybrid and we've replaced the 12V battery 4 times in 2 years and jumped it more than I can remember, yesterday I pulled every fuse from inside and out trying to find the source of parasitic draw. I was between 70-85mA and it never changed when I started systematically pulling fuses. I ended up pulling almost all the cables and connectors inside on the fuse panel but never found the draw. I have seen where folks have issue with the windows/door locks so I'll try that this afternoon, has anyone had issue where they pull everything and still have a draw? Any ideas of what could still be powered 12v and key not on? 1. Doors/Windows. 2. Radio/Navigation? 3. Bluetooth connection?
I pulled aftermarket remote starter and everything I could think of, just not finding the right leak to fix.
Set car with windows down and doors closed - let sit 20min
Draw @ 75mA and started pulling fuses in engine bay....nothing
Disconnected AC compressor and pulled relays...nothing
Pulled fuses inside car and connecting cables to the panel...nothing.
At the end of my rope, as usual the Stealership couldn't 'replicate the issue' so I'm on my own here and looking for ideas of 12v always on that could be stuck...thanks
I pulled aftermarket remote starter and everything I could think of, just not finding the right leak to fix.
Set car with windows down and doors closed - let sit 20min
Draw @ 75mA and started pulling fuses in engine bay....nothing
Disconnected AC compressor and pulled relays...nothing
Pulled fuses inside car and connecting cables to the panel...nothing.
At the end of my rope, as usual the Stealership couldn't 'replicate the issue' so I'm on my own here and looking for ideas of 12v always on that could be stuck...thanks
Re: The Parasitic draw
It does recharge but the boy only drives 3-4 miles each day so I've had him run up and down the highway to help recharge. It goes through fits of dead battery and then fine for awhile, that's why I think it's something stuck that's always 'on' like door switches or something. I've checked the AC clutch and rear defroster (found via google as a problem) but that's not it.
Re: The Parasitic draw
I didn't think 70mA was high either but according to the interwebs and manuals anything above 50mA is a drawdown and could cause problems. I did some more work last night and systematically disconnect items and nothing seemed to drop down the amperage. Dropped the radio, auto start, even the main fuses from the battery to everything below it to no avail. It intermittently pissing me off....if anything I appreciate the forum to vent
Re: The Parasitic draw
Every day, it wasn't but 3-4 miles so I told him to run around after work on the highway to help charge it. On weekends I made him run it for 15 minutes in morning/afternoon to keep it charged. We had a cold snap of -10 so I told him to run it when he gets the chance as it kills batteries at those temps.
I did have a window that appeared stuck (wouldn't move up or down) so after freeing it up I disconnected that connector in the door, this morning it started fine and the IMA battery indicator isn't jumping around as much and seems more steady. I hope to heck it was a stuck window trying to move up or down, but it doesn't make sense as that's not always 'powered on' and only operate when keyed on.
I did have a window that appeared stuck (wouldn't move up or down) so after freeing it up I disconnected that connector in the door, this morning it started fine and the IMA battery indicator isn't jumping around as much and seems more steady. I hope to heck it was a stuck window trying to move up or down, but it doesn't make sense as that's not always 'powered on' and only operate when keyed on.
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