Rep Power: 0

Hey guys

I could really use some advice. I drive a 2002 Civic LX (manual transmission).

Last week my car started struggling when I'd go to start it. When I would start it the engine sounded like it was drowning in thick fluid and would take a few tries before starting. Did this for about a day and then just stopped working altogether. The engine does nothing when I turn the keys (lights and stuff still work though). If I get a friend to give the car a push it will start.

Opened the hood and the passenger side of the engine looks like it's covered in oil. Checked oil level and it's really low. Engine, oil and battery light seem to be on.

Am I going to need to replace my starter? How do I go about stopping what I assume is an oil leak?

Anybody have any idea what's wrong with my car?

 
Rep Power: 150

Look at the passenger side of your head, just below the valve cover for a black plastic cap. Is there a puddle of oil under it?

The cap is $8. But when the o-ring and plastic get brittle it puts oil out big time, it will run down all over the passenger side. Your starter might be failed but deal with the oil first. See this thread for pictures and a youtube video: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...-oil-leak.html

 
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Here is my engine. Looks like this picture confirms where the leak is coming from? That's a puddle of oil right under the black cap. I need to read that other thread and deal with the oil leak now.

 
Rep Power: 150

That might not be the only oil leak, but your end cap is definitely leaking. The youtube video in post #5 (of that other thread) shows it's very easy to replace IF the cap is intact when you remove it. If the teeth have fallen off I wouldn't leave them in my head. I'd remove the cylinder cover and remove any bits that were in there. I'd replace the cylinder cover gasket and plug tube seals while I was at it.

Don't put gasket seal or Honda bond on the end cap, it isn't necessary.

Next up, If it were me I'd pull my starter and see if I could have it rebuilt at a local shop... if not I'd visit Pick n' Pull. I'm tight like that.

 
Rep Power: 518

I'd deal with the no-start before worrying about the oil leak. It can't leak more oil if it doesn't run.
Add oil if it is low, you don't want to run out.

 
Rep Power: 208

+1

priorities

 
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Anybody have any suggestions what the no start issue could be before I buy parts?

Wanna make sure I know what to get and what the problem is before dropping money.

Right now the engine does not start unless someone gives me a push.

Should I just replace the starter?

What else could account for the nostart issue and what should I replace?

 
Rep Power: 518

I would use a $3 test light or $20 volt meter and figure out what's really wrong...

Instead of dropping a bunch of money on a battery and/or starter and hope you guessed right.

 
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So do like a voltage test on the battery and ensure it isn't that before looking for what else it could be?

alright, thanks.

 
Rep Power: 518

Does the starter operate at all?
Does it make a loud click?
Does it click and all the lights go real dim?
Does the dash and all the lights go dead?


Volt test on the battery, should be at least 12.4v or higher (hoping the battery is charged up and still good, not dead and ruined from sitting unused)
Same test, read voltage during cranking

then test for battery power at the starter, is power still reaching the big cable terminal on the starter when one tries to crank it (engage the starter)?

When one tries to engage the starter, is battery power being supplied on the small wire at the starter?

While someone holds the key in the crank position, smack the starter.....does that make it crank?

 
Rep Power: 0

No sound or anything at all from the starter. All that happens when I turn the ignition is a soft hum for about 2 or 3 seconds followed by the hum stopping and nothing else.

Lights and dash do not dim when I attempt to start the vehicle but they all look bright

battery and oil light are on. battery light wasn't original on when this problem started but it has been sitting for a good six weeks now.

I'll get a test light and run those tests tomorrow.

 
Rep Power: 518

If all I had were a test light, I'd probably go in this order

Clip test light to battery ground terminal. Probe for power at the starter with the pointed end of the test light


When one tries to engage the starter, is battery power being supplied on the small wire at the starter?
(yes?) (and make sure that wire connector isn't loose on the starter, that makes for a frustrating intermittent crank)


test for battery power at the starter, is power still reaching the big cable terminal on the starter when one tries to crank it (engage the starter)?
Check ON the stud, not the wire terminal. If the big nut were loose then power might be at the wire but not the stud.
(yes)
That would mean power is getting to the starter on both circuits when it should be.

Stick test light to the starter housing (or any nearby bare exposed metal, trans case, bolt head, etc.) and have someone crank it, light should not illuminate. If it does, then the ground cable from battery to trans or engine is shot.



While someone holds the key in the crank position, smack the starter.....does that make it crank?

 
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So I did these tests with a test light. It passed all of them.

Smacking the starter made the car star. The car now starts on its own and the starter seems to be working again. Am I in the clear or will the starter die on me again?

 
Rep Power: 176

It will happen again, probably at the worst time. Your starter relay is on its way out. Be safe and change it. Easy fix.

 
Rep Power: 518

It will happen again. Sooner or later, it will happen.


I assume you made sure the small wire at the starter wasn't loose?

Starter problem confirmed.
Usually this means the solenoid contacts are going bad.
Most people just replace the starter.

 
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yup. I don't think it had been taken off ever. took a bit of pulling to pull it off and test the connection with the test light.

alright. I'll replace it.

thanks a bunch

 
Rep Power: 210

My dad was a bait shrimper decades ago and now that you mentioned it I remember him doing that to the starter occassionally, soon after would be replaced. He used straight six chevy 250 engines and ran them on salt water (no radiator) screened inlet on bottom of boat. Those engines held up for years...surprsingly.