When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
thank you Colin!
-VC installed (my 3rd one! haha)
-Fixed hood not closing issue; it turned out the reinf. I had cut out from the old A/C fan support I removed was making the hood latch flex downwards when pressure was applied so I welded angle iron to the frame and below the hood latch to keep it rigid and voila. I also cut some support from the hood where the dumptube bends upwards (the primary layer only).
What is left to do?
This summer is winding down for me and I am headed back to my last semester of school.
My plate has somewhat emptied out now, so I feel more relieved. My EM2 project is nearing completion, so I will have more time to wrap the project up and get her tuned.
-I have to fabricate the remaining portion of the stainless steel exhuast system I designed using 3in .065wall stainless steel tubing. Check out aceraceparts they have really good deals on bends. Especially if you buy in bulk. And they offer UL approved tubing which has a much higher quality then generic ebay stainless steel.
-I am contemplating fabbing up a heim joint support brace? anyone? Needed?
-I am also not sure how this will go if I want to refill coolant and burp the car without a tune will it be an issue?
-Fill the oil/ oil filter install, injector size update KPRO
Tune after burping coolant/checking for leaks
Thank you everyone for the support! Can't wait to drive her again!
I don't know how I feel right now.
The bad news is my tuner just said hes moving to Memphis and he sold his dyno to some guy south of Nashville.
The good news is, I have potential to teach myself how to tune a car.
What ever you do, DON'T touch boost levels till you get your fuel ratios close on all vacuum levels...
What i've learned is to run it in second or third gear on a back road, hold it at 1500 rpms for 5 seconds then go up 500 rpms and hold for another 5 seconds and so on till your close to your max rpms.
If your fuel is way off stop and adjust right then and there....
You have the ability to see a fuel heat map right, the A/F ratio number for a certain position on the fuel map, with regards to rpm and atmosphere pressure?
If not you can data log your air fuel sensor and import the raw data into excel to create a heat map.
You have the ability to see a fuel heat map right, the A/F ratio number for a certain position on the fuel map, with regards to rpm and atmosphere pressure?
If not you can data log your air fuel sensor and import the raw data into excel to create a heat map.
Hey guys, so I've been studying the Kpro Tuning Guide per Hondata's website. I'm still not done watching the tutorials on the fundamentals of tuning, but it seems pretty straightfoward. I am a mechanical engineering student after all, and have a solid grasp on A/F ratios and the basics of EFI tuning after reading some books. I feel like all I have to do is start from idle, work my way upto part throttle, then WOT.
So heres my first question. 1) Do we ignore the high-cam tuning on Kpro since D17 is single cam? Or do we consider high-cam as when RPM which VTEC is enabled and >=RPM Vtec?
The process is as follows
1) Fuel map
2) Ignition timing
3) Cam timing
For both low cam and high cam
Start at idle, get it smooth. Get the part-throttle tuned. Then goto a track and get WOT tuned.
I understand this will be a learning curved process of trial and error but I've always been able to challenge myself with daunting tasks and came out fine!
Im excited to get this project finished.
I will be looking forward to fabbing the rest of the exhaust up and topping her fluids up to prepare for first ignition.
From my understanding the high cam is for when Vtec kicks in.
I have that same option with Ktuner but i ignore it since i have Vtec killer pins in.
If street tuning do the 500 rpm for 5 seconds jump in second or third gear option.
For your WOT, I would do a 2nd gear WOT on the street after everything below boost is somewhat set, then go to the track.
From my understanding the high cam is for when Vtec kicks in.
I have that same option with Ktuner but i ignore it since i have Vtec killer pins in.
If street tuning do the 500 rpm for 5 seconds jump in second or third gear option.
For your WOT, I would do a 2nd gear WOT on the street after everything below boost is somewhat set, then go to the track.
It is indeed correct that VTEC is the high-cam tuning profile. We can tune low cam first then high cam on Hondata/Ktuner. It seems most tuning applications before the D17 (d16 OBD1 conversion) utilized Crome, Neptune, S300, or some other form of tuning software but what they all have in common is similar fuel/ignition/cam tables and low-cam/high cam options when tuning.
The idea is to keep the A/F ration 14.7:1 during pre-boost and during boost 12.0-12.5:1.
More power= Need more fuel
Safer to run rich than lean on boosted engines
Also on boosted engines the VTEC set-point is safe set somewhere between 5500-6500RPM.
And thanks Piano! I'm going to make an instruction guide for my self such that I can refer to the notes during the process and know the lower-upper bound constraints for fuel, ignition per MAP or RPM.
The project moves ON!
*Its been 4 weeks since my last update*
I got some preparations done. Moved the car to the street for jacking and underbody work. Made some headway on the exhaust (see pics) O2 bung for secondary O2 added and bend added to transition following the OEM path of the exhuast. There she sits in all her glory waiting to be tuned!! O2 welding Tubing I am on currently. Hangers, Vband, and Bends must be ordered to continue
I am in the middle of a semester (final one) graduate December. The biggest hurdles left are to finish welding the exhaust (need more V bands, hangers and bends) and tuning the car.
I can breathe a bit more once I can have the exhaust done so I dont have to get dirty under the car and chill out in a seat for once.
I have read up on tuning with Kpro and am going to come up with a plan on how to tune it for street soon. I might have to delay the project a little longer than anticipated so I can focus on finishing my degree, but honestly, I'll most likely have the exhaust done by December, so that will be good.
Sup fellas, quick update.
Got some more time on my hands now that I have graduated. (Woohoo!)
The last time I made progress me and a friend fabricated the entire new exhaust sections, but it sits WAY TOO LOW. So I need to fab up some custom length hangers using traditional stainless rods instead of the Walker Exhaust hangers I used. I will use the stock hanger locations and somehow make it work. The 3in exhaust sits half an in from the ground when the car is lowered onto the ground. So, that will be the next goal; to modify the exhaust system so it sits higher.
Then some of the next steps will be to
a) new battery
b) add fluids
c) install this EGT probe
d) upload MAP
e) tune (need to refresh my tuning knowledge and prepare for this unless I find me a tuner in the area) :S
Sorry I have taken so long. I have been extremely busy with school and my next steps afterwards that I haven't had the time to wrench. :-( But I am looking forward to getting this thing closer to tuning time!
Whats up boys?
soooo lotta awesome news so far! lets keep it brief.
-Finished the mid-pipe, now just need to fab up the axle tube about 24"-36" piece, which I have to fab next weekend.
Hopefully my remaining argon gas I used for TIG will suffice before I have to make a long trip again to the welding supply.
Remaining steps
-Drill and tap the EGT probe into manifold
-Fluid fill - oil, new gas, coolant, power steering, new brake fluid,
-Battery swap (dead)
-Get the injectors updated in KPRO
-First start up and coolant burp (little worried on how Idle will sound or go) Going to try to start with a D17A1 base map for turbo included on KPRO, and see how she idles.
-Tune
Whats up boys!
So I finally got the Civic started and running. This morning I updated the ECU and calibration and then I went to start it up. The battery required a good jump start and charge because the battery had become completely depleted after sitting for over a year. (Oct 18' was last I drove her)
What I am glad to see is that there were no leaks of fluids or vacuum.
I did idle for about an hour and burped the coolant. I noticed the idle was really rough until the ECU went into re-learn procedure. Then the car really got to idling around 800rpm which I was super relieved about. The last time I drove the car I had a faulty IACV sensor and it idled sporadically, and after I bought a genuine one and replaced it, I went ahead with finishing the turbo build and crossed my fingers and no more idle issues after over a year! The turbo looks good. I got some minor repairs I have to work out but nothing major. The exhaust note is deeper while idling and sounds much better, and I can't wait to actually rev this D17 engine.
Next steps
-Replace my broken clutch slave cylinder
-Edit wideband in Kpro to be used from AEM
-Diagose oil pressure gauge/water temp/oil temp gauges see if I can figure out why they aren't working
-Dyno tune by Mid march hopefully
I got word of a dyno tuner not to far from where I live, so I am going to reach out to them and see if they are familiar with Hondata Kpro tuning. Onwards!
Just a little teaser before I actually get this vehicle tuned properly and on the road. Cool engine bay shot.
-Idling smooth at around 14.7 A/F
-Replacing a bad clutch line soon so I can go for a test drive and tune the part and full throttle fuel map
Stuff I been working on and fixed lately
-Clutch master/slave cyls replaced
-Battery replaced
-Gages installed and working fine
-ECU tuning, been getting a guide readied up for tuning with street tuning on Kpro's Hondata KMANAGER software. KManager is fairly simple and with some research I was able to update my fuel tables to be good on idle mode. Car is just begging for a good drive.
minor issues
Oil leak (small) from return line
major issues
overheating and check engine light after sitting idle.... going to take a look at the thermostat and see if that might be the case, or heater core hoses. Im not getting hot air.
Re: Erf's Low Boost Build (Stock Internals) 
congrats on graduating. 
