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In cleaning the IACV, should you take out the sensor part (red encircle on the image)? If yes, is it safe? Because I've watched some videos on youtube that they are also taking that part out to thoroughly clean the valve. I want to give it a try but I'm afraid if that will give me a problem after putting it all back.
By the way, the photo is not the actual IACV from my car. I just grabbed it. Mine is dirtier.
Last edited by felicianojerome; May 21, 2020 at 02:27 AM.
Yes you can pull it off. That will allow you to spin the valve by hand to make cleaning easier. Those screws will likely strip or break on you and you'll have to replace them.
Yes you can pull it off. That will allow you to spin the valve by hand to make cleaning easier. Those screws will likely strip or break on you and you'll have to replace them.
Is there a proper adjustment or alignment of the sensor and the valve when putting it back? And do you know what is the size of the screws?
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Re: IACV cleaning
Remove the screws with an impact screwdriver to prevent stripping the slots. Harbor Freight sells one for $7. If they do strip use a reverse drill bit to back them out. When you get them out bring to Honda dealer or Ace hardware and match the diameter/pitch/length. Also, a 10 grade or higher for heat expansion.
If you do remove it you might as well order a gasket for it, and the larger gasket for mating to the cylinder head.
I was able to removed the solenoid from the valve and cleaned it. However, it didn't resolved my problem with the rpm on idle drops whenever I turn on the AC. I have no issues on idle when I'm not using the AC.
No check engine, no fault code, new spark plugs. What should I do next?
From 800 down to 500-600. This usually happens when both radiator and condenser fan starts to kick in. And when I'm stepping on the brake to stop, the rpm will drop to 500 and starts shaking like it will going to stall. But the idle is steady at 800 and car runs smoothly when I'm not using the AC.
From 800 down to 500-600. This usually happens when both radiator and condenser fan starts to kick in. And when I'm stepping on the brake to stop, the rpm will drop to 500 and starts shaking like it will going to stall. But the idle is steady at 800 and car runs smoothly when I'm not using the AC.
Yesterday, I brought my car to a local auto electrical shop for them to check. They've noticed that engine is losing power while on idle. The auto guy suspected that the engine cannot handle the electrical load when using the AC. They've suggested to replace the coil packs, so I did. And the battery too. Engine is fine and car runs smooth but without AC.
Another thing that I've noticed, because it's summer and it's freakin' hot so I cannot stand not to use the AC, after turning off the engine (so engine is still hot) and I tried to start it again after maybe 10-15 mins, it is hard starting. The engine will crank but it will not start. I have to wait for the engine to cool down and try to start again. But this hard starting usually happens if the car came from a run while I'm using the AC. But if the car came from a run and I didn't use the AC at all, the car will start in one click.
I have checked the battery and engine ground cable, everything is clean and tight.
Earlier, I have brought my car to a car aircon shop to check if the problem is coming from the AC system. They've said that AC system is fine and they have found no issues.
I went back to the auto electrical shop in our town for them to check again and while on the way, CEL comes on and speedometer is not working. I suspected that it has something to do with the vehicle speed sensor. And just to make sure, I have asked the car guy to scan for code and yes, its vehicle speed sensor. But this is not the main issue and I can just replace the sensor. LOL
Going back to the main problem, when the mechanic is reaching for the OBD port under the steering wheel, he noticed this switch (and I have seen that switch before but I have not idea what it is for).
He then make a conclusion that the AC is already converted (and I have no idea what that means) and it is no longer the original AC system. He said that he's 70% sure that it is the culprit.
Do you guys have any idea what he's saying? And do you think this might solved my problem?
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Re: IACV cleaning
Is it a rheostat (turns) or an on/off toggle switch?
Looks to be wired in by a prior owner. Have you tried turning or flipping the switch to see what happens when engine is idling?
Possibly a dimmer switch for dash lights, other lights, or windshield wipers?
Last edited by Wankenstein; Jun 6, 2020 at 12:07 PM.
Is it a rheostat (turns) or an on/off toggle switch?
Looks to be wired in by a prior owner. Have you tried turning or flipping the switch to see what happens when engine is idling?
Possibly a dimmer switch for dash lights, other lights, or windshield wipers?
It's a rheostat I think. I tried to turn it slowly but nothing happens on the idle, dash and other lights and on wipers. I was told by my uncle before that it is for the AC fan if I remember it right.
I don't want to replace my IACV because I don't think it is failing. So I tried to test it, following what these guys discussed on this thread: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...prob-idle.html
When I cover the hole in the tb with my finger, the idle drops like it will going to stall. So it means that my IACV is working fine, right?
I've replaced the vehicle speed sensor this morning and went for a drive. Before that, I've tried to slightly turn the rheostat switch to see if that will make a difference on the idle when the AC is on. And I noticed that it gives maybe 40-50% improvement on the idle. RPM will still drop from 800 down to 650-700 when you turn on the AC. Unlike before that, it will drop to almost 500 and the car will violently shake like it's going to stall. And I've noticed also that after slightly turning that rheostat switch, when the rad and AC fan starts to kick in, there were times that the idle is stable to 800. Kinda strange for me.
