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So I got in my car one day and out of the blue the D (drive) light started flashing and the rpm dropped steeply. I was at work and the car had sat overnight during a cold spell. I have had this car for over a year, and had driven repeatedly during the previous winter and it did not do this, so the issue is new. At this point, I could not go into drive or 3rd gear and move the vehicle effectively. However, I could drive okay in third. Once I got home, I shut the car off after parking, and sat for a couple minutes, then restarted the car and it did not do it. I was able to drive normally (engine heated up). For the next few days I continued to allow the engine to warm up before trying to drive it, and I have since replace the torque convertor clutch solenoid and the clutch pressure control solenoid (see images below for ID). Now the problem is worse. I know I should stop driving it, but I only live 1 mile from my job, health WAY too bad to walk, and no other affordable transportation. Money is extremely limited as well, so I can't run to a mechanic every single time a light flashes. The downside on this is that I am now way in over my head.
I have read stuff on these forums that talks about wires and continuity checks and so on, but I do not have the skills to do this. Furthermore, the D light flashing is only doing so when it's cold. The hard shift exists warm or cold. It is entirely possible that the hard shift could be causes by a wire, but I find it hard to accept that the D light is caused by cold weather.
Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Torque Convertor Clutch Solenoid (pretty sure my car only has one of these)
Having much trouble finding the right ATF at a price I can afford. Sigh. The fluid that's in it right now is actually very reddish, so... should I still consider the 3x drain, or is this just an "elimination step?"
It is not an elimination step. Draining and refilling three times is really the only option. The issue with flushing is that it will most likely damage your transmission even more, and the "3x3" method is the only true way to ensure that there is new fluid in the system.
It is not an elimination step. Draining and refilling three times is really the only option. The issue with flushing is that it will most likely damage your transmission even more, and the "3x3" method is the only true way to ensure that there is new fluid in the system.
Yeah, even the factory original owner's manual states that a "flush" is a total of 4 or 5 drain and fills with driving in between. In my case, it took that many drain and fills to get the fluid from a slight burnt smelling brownish fluid to a bright red, cleaner smelling fluid.
Have this same code. And like you only when it's cold. Curious since you replacing the solenoid made it worse if I should just drain and fill the trans fluid.
Have this same code. And like you only when it's cold. Curious since you replacing the solenoid made it worse if I should just drain and fill the trans fluid.
Might as well. Drain, refill, drive around the block, repeat two more times.
p1773 
