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Hey Guys. I wanted to check my timing belt, on this 05 I bought recently. After getting the upper cover off, I discover the belt was very loose, and lot's of cover shavings. I figure buy a belt kit and do it. I discovered the tensioner was loose, and snugged it down to check if it would tighten up. Seemed ok, but on installing the new tensioner, and when trying to torque it to 33, discovered it couldn't make 33. The original bolt looked bad before I even tried it. I guess someone stripped it, left it loose, and sold it to me. The point is I tried using another bolt, that was about 1/4 inch longer, but the shoulders matched up. I shortened it with a couple washers. I was able to torque it 30ft lbs without it stripping. I just felt it wouldn't make the 33! I guess that sounds crazy? Is there any chance this thing will hold up at the 30 ft lbs? The belt is on. The tensioner pin out, and spring on. I rotated it many times all seems ok. I did notice the belt edge is slightly past the outer tensioner edge? The belt is aligned on the crank sprocket, water pump sprocket, and cam sprocket nicely. I even bought new covers for this Duke, cause upper and lowers were both pretty bad! Belt nearly cut completely through a channel it carved into lower cover from being so loose. I need advice. I was thinking of removing the bolt, and using locktight on it? I am older, and just don't think I can do the drill, and helicoil repair? This thing has 225k on it. I would like to run it another 10k, and sell it! Sorry so long, I'm all bummed out. I was doing a nice job on it. Please advise. Thank you.

 
Rep Power: 125

Should be fine at 30. Not sure why it wouldn't be able to go another 3 ft-lbs.

Can't remember my timing belt replacement too well but I vaguely remember it being at the edge of the cam gear, so as long as it's tight, you'll be okay.

 
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Thank you for your reply. I hope it holds up. I'm waiting for the new covers to arrive soon. I'm putting new cam and crank sensors in it too. Don't have the money for Honda sensors, and don't want eBay fake Honda sensors! I got a Denso crank sensor, and a Duralast Cam sensor on Amazon. I hope they are ok. I'll update after I get it running, later this coming week. I do still work, even though I'm past retirement age. No choice, sink or swim for me! Thanks again.

 
Rep Power: 222

Duralast is junk.
go get an oem one from a junkyard if you dont want to buy new

 
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Ok glad you told me! I will send it back to Amazon, and find a OEM one. I did not install it yet. Thanks.

 
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Update on that. It is not a Duralast Cam sensor that I purchased. It is a Dorman, and I'm going to try it out. It has many good reviews, I don't see any bad ones. I remember now, that's why I bought this one. Made in USA also. I'll let you know how it works out. Thank you.

 
Rep Power: 367

denso is oem

 
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Dorman can be hit and miss, good luck

 
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I'm still waiting for a new lower cover, to finish it. It should arrive Friday. I'll let you guys know how it runs. Thank you for the help

 
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Well Bad luck Flocker here!! I had the new tensioner on and torqued to 30 lbs as previously stated. I decided to take it back out, and put some blue Loctite on it. I torqued it back to 30 again, but a little voice said, " Take it to 31 Flock Face! " I said ok to the little voice, and went to 31, but no it didn't go to 31 it just turned and turned! After that I totally destroyed the threads trying to use a thread chasing tool kit, but used the M10 x1.50 one by mistake cause I'm old and half blind. Can you guys tell me what kit size I need to drill it out and put a helicoil insert in it. I see kits listed as M10x1.25 but the tap says M10x 1,25, What size should the drill bit be, and the tap to restore the damaged M10x 1.25 bolt hole plz? What size should the inserts be also? I don't want to get the wrong kit plz? I also considered the time-sert kit, as I imagine it is better, cause it cost over $100. Please advise? I want to order it today. Thank you Flockin Flocker!

 
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I finally got the belt all done, last Thursday. I had to drill out the damaged threads, using a Stubby 13/32 bit. Had to drill it using a small pair of vice grips on the bit. I think I turned in the Helicoil in too far? My new bolt would only go in so far, and felt like it bottomed out. Just wouldn't turn anymore. Couldn't tighten past 30 ft lbs. The car is running well right now. My worry is will it last? I left my top belt cover off, so I can see how it's doing for awhile. The belt seems tight, except for at a certain rotation point of the crankshaft, there is one point where the side of the belt towards front of car, seems a little looser? I hope that doesn't mean the bolt is coming loose already? Please advise. Thank you.

 
Rep Power: 37

I just ran into the same problem. I am going to try a washer and 30lb and see where I get.

 
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How come no one mentions the fact that before torquing down the tensioner bolt you need to rotate the tensioner to the stop it's on the back of it I didn't do this the first time I did my timing belt and I'm pretty sure that's why Sunday night when I thought I was going to replace just the camshaft sensor I pulled the top cover and realized I had no tension at all whatsoever on the timing belt and I have been driving it for 3 weeks up and down the interstate at 80 miles an hour but I'm a YouTuber I searched every everything and try to watch every video I can but I never saw this video until this time around but I found a video where the guy says and he shows you that before you tighten it down to the torque specs we need to rotate the tension until it touches the back strap on the back of the tensioner now when I went and had mine warrantied out I looked at the back of the one that by the way I was missing the spring but my back stop had completely been sheared off how the car ran for three weeks up and down the interstate with no tension or spring on I have no clue but it did so is it true? Do we need to rotate it before we torque it if so how come no one else is mentioned that?

 
Rep Power: 367

? It is mentioned in the service manual?

 
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Can someone point me in that direction please

 
Rep Power: 224

Honestly, no idea what you're saying.

-Torque tensioner bolt to 8.7 lb ft, then back off 180 degrees.
-Install timing belt.
-Install tensioner spring to block.
-Rotate crankshaft counter-clockwise two rotations.
-Torque tensioner bolt to 33 lb ft.

If you're missing the tensioner spring, that's your issue.

 
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It's my understanding, that once we install our new tensioner, we hand tighten the tensioner bolt. Then we route our belt, after making sure you have your engine on TDC, and cam marks in the right position to the top edge of the cylinder head. Once we have that done, I would say hook on your tensioner spring. You leave the holding pin in place that came on your new tensioner. Do not remove it yet. Now you hand rotate your engine counter clockwise at least 4 or 5 complete turns. Then check and see if yoir belt held the proper alignment marks!! If it has held the marks, then you are ready to torque your tensioner to the correct ft lbs, which in a 1.7 that would be 33 ft lbs. Now you last step after torquing to specs, would be to remove you tensioner holding clip! I would mention that after doing your rotations, make sure to check you belt tension before torquing. It should feel nice and evenly tight..It shouldn't be loose, on the front side, or rear side. It should feel even, as the hand rotations you do are actually tightening your belt as you do them. At that pont your ready to start re-assembling. In your particular case, I would totally agree with Moderator BrotatoChip, that your missing tensioner spring was what caused you belt to come loose. That Spring is everything in relation to the belt tension! Always make sure to use a new one, and be very careful that it is attached securely!

 
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Rep Power: 222

That's just installing the tensioner correctly.... you can't just install it in any orientation that you want. That would be like trying to install your valve cover backwards.

 
Rep Power: 224

The instructions I gave are from the service manual. I think those are worth trusting.