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Whoever AIM'd me asking me to E-mail them... post in here.

 
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Not to thread jack, but will one of these solve that problem also??

http://www.dezod.com/pd_dezod_motorsports_stage_0.cfm

 
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^ any ex swaybar should solve the problem of hitting the cat or any part of the exhaust

 
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Forgive me if this was answered i read through the 17 or so pages and didn't find the exact answer i was looking for.

I have a 2005 Civic Reverb which has a d17a1 making it a dx \ lx i guess?

I want to buy an apexi world sport 2 catback, but it is only made for the ex, now i know the difference between the two models the cat is basically built into the dx/lx manifold and the ex is not.

I have not been able to find any pics comparing the length or setup under the car and im wondering how much work will it be to take the ws2 catback for the ex to a shop and have them fit it up to my stock header/cat.

 
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It will take your exhaust shop one piece of pipe and two flanges to make it work. Probably cost you all of $100.

 
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^ words. I've also seen the adapter pipes for a dx/lx manifold to mate to an EX catback. I'm not sure who makes them though, or if they are only sold with certain exhausts.

 
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Nice so its not a big deal to do, i really didn't want to go through the work of relocating the o2 sensors etc.

I noticed the magnaflo catback includes 2 pipes and says its made for the dx lx and ex, i was considering this catback but i dont really like the look of round strait through mufflers.

 
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hey triz, i know the whole faq is on dx/lx but ive searched all over for some info on the ex header and i cant find much that i need.

i have an HP header to install on my ex, and i was looking at the two bolts at the bottom that connect at the downpipe. they have two spring looking things on them, and after looking at the stock header, those springs look like they were compressed somehow underneath the downpipe flange, so the bolt reached up from underneath and through the header holes. am i thinking too far into it or is there some sort of a tool youd need for it?

it looks like if i thread the bolts upward through the downpipe flange, the spring would stop it from being up far enough to reach the header holes.

 
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Nope, you got it completely right. You just need to get under your car and apply a little upward pressure (to compress the springs) when you try and connect the header and downpipe. From experience tho, get new bolts if yours have a decent set of miles on them.. I snapped one off in that little f'er of a welded bolt. The thickness of the screws is just too small to withstand years and years of repeated heating up and cooling down to be torqued and untorqued more then a handfull of times.

 
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ok right on, so it just takes pressure to squeeze them up.

heres my next question. the bolt is supposed to thread upward from the bottom and also supposed to have a nut on the top side of it, correct? mine never came with nuts. (i got it through a kind of local guy and it was used, but it only came with the bolts and no nuts).

also, the bolts are in pretty crappy shape (they are rusty and the threads are kind of worn out and rusty as well) and the threads on the header holes are in kind of rough worn out shape as well. could i just use a regular nut and bolt that is the right length instead? i was thinking i could get the new regular bolt just a hair smaller diameter than the headers hole so i completely avoid using the threads on the header holes. do you know what i mean? so it just slides through instead of threading through the header, and i would just thread the new nut ontop of it on the top side.

 
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Yeah you can do that. I'd suggest a bigger thicker bolt. For my race header I had to pick up new hardware at napa. If you dont have the ability to drill metal, take it to a machine shop and have them drill out the hole big enough for the bolt you want to use. and have them do a few tack welds on the nut at the end. Just like stock, but better. The springs you dont really need. I think they are there to help the motor flex without your exhaust flexing but after that gasket between the header and down pipe wears out it really doesnt matter anyways. So what if it flexs- your rubber exhaust hangers will do a decent job of letting your exhaust pivot with the engine.

 
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sounds pretty straight forward. after looking at the stock header, i thought those nuts were just seized to it. i didnt realise they were welded.

a few more questions now...will i also have to bore out the holes on the top of the downpipe flange? or will the newer header bolts go through there with a lot of slack?

my next question was about the springs and if they needed to be there. obviously the rusty bolts coming with the header have a very big top to each bolt that holds the spring up from underneath, and that would be really hard to find when looking for a new bolt. so im guessing just cake the new bigger bolt with anti seize grease and butt it right up to the bottom of the downpipe flange and torque away?

also lets say im able to drill it out myself....how important is it that the nuts are tack welded in place? can i go without it or do you think its that important?

thanks again for all the help.

 
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also i just thought of something else too. what if i used a fairly thick washer on the bolt that the spring could sit on, and if i couldnt find one that was that thick, maybe two washers just to make it a bit stronger...that would work, no?

 
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I was going to suggest using a washer if you wanted to still rock the springs on the bolts. You dont HAVE to get the nuts welded to the header, but it will make it one HELL of a lot easier on you when you try to put it all together. As it is, its still a pretty tricky job for one or two ppl. Having another head in the bay trying to hold the nuts from the top would make it even more difficult. A tack weld is cheap- a lot of shops probably wouldnt even charge you. Just throw 10 bucks their way for the hassle and they'll be happy.

As for the bolt holes in the downpipe flange, I dunno if you'll have to bore them out a little too. You might depending on what thickness bolt you get- from what I vaguely remember, they are slightly larger and give you some play room.

 
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thanks again for all the help. ive got a couple projects in the works when i get back home in a few weeks, this is one of them. ive got pretty much what i need for info i think so well see how it goes when i get back home.

 
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Its a pretty easy job. It costs some bills to do, but its worth it because you have way more exhaust options.

 
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Will the aftermarket header fit onto stock downpipe or exhaust? dont know much about this..

 
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Will the aftermarket header fit without getting a exhaust system? i have an LX

 
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Hey guys im new to this site but i stumbled across this thread on google....

I have a 2004 Honda Civic DX and i was searching for headers and catback exhaust..but i found a combo at a cheap price..

my question is...can i put these EX parts on my DX with no trouble?
if so what do i need to do

and also these parts are from ebay

thanks

 
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Yes, you can get an aftermarket LX header and it'll bolt to your stock LX exhaust just fine.

What you CANT do is get an EX header and expect it to bolt to your LX exhaust, because they wont even be close- the stock exhaust will be too long... you could take it to an exhaust shop and have them cut a few inches out your LX exhaust and re-weld it so it bolts up---- but I dont suggest it, you'll still have a pea shooter exhaust.

 
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I refer you back to the first post. The DX and LX exhaust are exactly the same. EXACTLY. So whenever you see LX in an exhaust thread, just substitute DX and i'll all make sense for your ride.

EX parts will bolt up just fine, but you have to convert your HEADER, DOWN PIPE, CATBACK + MUFFLER to run the parts. If any of these parts are from a DX/LX, then it wont work without having custom work down at the muffler shop. What kinda custom work you might ask- depends on the parts your talking about swapping. Post some specifics and I'll get back 2 U.

 
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what size extensions do we need for 02 sensor extension? i went on password jdm and they have 16" and 32"

 
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read first post.

 
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hey, so i got back from vacation, got the header all cleaned and ready to go (had to do some work since it was a used HP racing 4-1 header) and made the attempt to install it. once i took out the bolts they had included and spraying them down a few times with wd-40, they actually cleaned right up for the most part, and so did all the threads on the header itself. i decided to just see what would happen by using them instead of drilling a bigger hole, getting new nuts, bolts, washers, and tack welding the nut on the top. the hp header bolts/springs are the identical ones to stock, so i actually used the stock ones since they were in better condition on the new header.

anyway, after i got the stock header off with some annoyance from that stupid a/c line being in the way, i went to install the hp header. everything fit in place, i put some anti-sieze on the threads and everything bolted right up. everything went smooth except for when i was under the car and went to thread the two bolts in that connect the downpipe. the passenger side one went in and went nice and tight, but when i went to do the driver side one...it tightened snug and then slipped. i would do 2-3 more turns as it snugged up then it would slip again. i think one of the threads is worn on the header hole. do you think theres anything i can do to make it all tight? last thing i want to do now is remove the header, drill them out, and rethread or use a new nut and bolt.

do you think i can just thread new nuts downward onto the bolts from the top side until they are fairly tight, then get back under the car and torque the bolts into those new nuts? i know its the threads on the one hole of the header, not the threads on the bolt that are the problem...

 
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Rocky, you're going to want to drill the hole in the header out before putting on the new nuts. Otherwise you run a risk of stripping out the bolt as well by having essentially one really long nut (combo of both sets of threads) that is partially stripped.

 
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ok i never thought of it that way but that makes perfect sense. so in other words if i leave it as it is and try to put a new nut on... im going to be basically threading the bolt through a double length nut with part of the threads already stripped and that potentially can ruin the bolt and i would have a total headache trying to fix it at that point.

well, like i was saying before, everything is tight and secure and ive been driving on it since wednesday without noticing any problem at all. one bolt is completely torqued tight, and the stripped one is tight enough that it only slips when i go to torque it real tight. it never slips to the point its loose, just to the point where its not torqued all the way tight which im thinking i can live with.

we (www.em2ab.com) are going on a cruise tomorrow to banff so i will check it when i get back and if it is leak/problem free, im going to leave it as it is otherwise ill take it out, drill it out and use a nut and bolt like you guys suggest.

thanks guys, +rep.

 
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So, just to clarify, I have an '02 LX. If I buy an aftermarket or stock EX header, and the Magnaflow exhaust I want( this fits EX or LX because it has an extension pipe to hook up to the LX manifold). With the extension pipe on the exhaust will be too long, but without it it will be too short because it will be missing the EX downpipe and converter, right? This magnaflow kit also comes with a 3 bolt flange to hook up to the EX downpipe, so can I just have the extension pipe cut shorter and the 3bolt flange welded on so it will hook up to the EX header? Or should I just get a 2 piece race header, this should bolt right up to the a/m exhaust w/out a converter right?

 
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I was also wondering if you had any opinion on whether ceramic or stainless is better? I heard that ceramic will run a lot cooler, but which one will last the longest?

 
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Stainless. Most exhaust rots from the inside out. Get stainless especially since you're in Michigan and winters are terrible.

 
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You can run the LX header and EX exhaust perfectly fine as long as you have that extension/converter pipe that comes with the exhaust. You could also buy an EX race header and it would bolt right up to the exhaust as well without any extension pipe. Your other option should be a stock EX header AND downpipe.