original The ultimate DX/LX header/exhaust DIY and FAQ
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Re: The ultimate DX/LX header/exhaust FAQ
by the way the link doesnt work for the o2 extenders...i need my wires extendedd cause im doing a swap and need to know if i can splice and extend or if i have to get aftermarket extenders
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From: Atlanta, GA
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Easiest way to do this, like Triz said, is buy an EX header and catback exhaust.
Then go to Summit Racing and buy 2-1/4" inlet/outlet Magnaflow hi-flow cat. It's a real cat (not a test pipe), is OBD-2A compliant and costs $70. While you're there, buy a 4' length of 2-1/4" pipe ($10-12) and a 2-1/4" formed flange for $5 (P/N: WLK-31885) .
We're at $85 plus shipping right now.
Then head over to Mandrel Bending Solutions Ebay store (Click this), buy these items:
1 piece of 2-1/4" U-bend pipe - $12
1 three-bolt 2-14" flange - $4.25
1 two-bolt and 1 three-bolt gasket - $6 ($3/each)
1 oxygen sensor bung for your post cat sensor -$4
1 L-shaped hanger - $1.76
That's $33 plus shipping from Mandrel Bend Solutions. The whole new, truly 2-1/4" downpipe and real high-flow cat has just cost you $120 plus shipping for the parts. You will reuse those spring bolts already on your car.
Now take your new EX header, catback system, and box of exhaust parts to the nearest non-chain muffler shop. Point to the box of parts and the car and say, "I want all this stuff on my car, and I want all the stuff that's currently on my car put in these boxes. I'll be back in two hours, here's $150."
Go stuff some food down your gullet, have a beer, and then come back to your brand new, **** sounding exhaust.
I'll get your pics in a second Triz. I'm pissed off at the car and don't feel like going outside right now.
Then go to Summit Racing and buy 2-1/4" inlet/outlet Magnaflow hi-flow cat. It's a real cat (not a test pipe), is OBD-2A compliant and costs $70. While you're there, buy a 4' length of 2-1/4" pipe ($10-12) and a 2-1/4" formed flange for $5 (P/N: WLK-31885) .
We're at $85 plus shipping right now.
Then head over to Mandrel Bending Solutions Ebay store (Click this), buy these items:
1 piece of 2-1/4" U-bend pipe - $12
1 three-bolt 2-14" flange - $4.25
1 two-bolt and 1 three-bolt gasket - $6 ($3/each)
1 oxygen sensor bung for your post cat sensor -$4
1 L-shaped hanger - $1.76
That's $33 plus shipping from Mandrel Bend Solutions. The whole new, truly 2-1/4" downpipe and real high-flow cat has just cost you $120 plus shipping for the parts. You will reuse those spring bolts already on your car.
Now take your new EX header, catback system, and box of exhaust parts to the nearest non-chain muffler shop. Point to the box of parts and the car and say, "I want all this stuff on my car, and I want all the stuff that's currently on my car put in these boxes. I'll be back in two hours, here's $150."
Go stuff some food down your gullet, have a beer, and then come back to your brand new, **** sounding exhaust.
I'll get your pics in a second Triz. I'm pissed off at the car and don't feel like going outside right now.
FYI, if no one else has tried fitting a "D16" turbo header to their D17 exhaust port, DONT. For the 2 headers...the bottom three fasteners are in the same place, but the D16 header takes 4 upper fasteners...the D17 only has 2 up top, and the D17 studs go exactly in between the inboard/outboard fasteners on a D16 header. Sigh, i suppose this is why you look at what your buying before trusting Mr. Ebay partseller's helpful application info...
FYI #2...My stock EX header had a bunch of weld slag and other whatnot immediately downstream of the flange. I ground it out, polished as much of each primary as I could, flushed with carb cleaner, compressed air, and reinstalled it. Made zero difference
. So now I've got two minor worries.
1) Less metal means less strength. Been driving like this for a month now, no cracked stock header, good times.
2) After grinding away at my stock manifold, I read on pg 119 of Corky Bell's Maximum Boost that "Reversal of the exhaust gas flow back into the combustion chamber during valve overlap is called reversion. Creating an aerodynamic barrier that reduces the reverse flow yet does not impede outward-flowing gases can pay dividends in performance."
If that weld bead i decided to grind out was supposed to be an "anti-reversion orifice", its now effectively removed. I haven't really felt any decrease in power, but prior to this pointless mod, i was putting 98.1whp to the ground...dont know if I would notice a small percentage change anyway.
Summary: D16 header DOES NOT FIT D17 w/o modification the top of flange...cost of modification (welding, grinding, then decking the surface) probably justifies buying the more expensive, properly fitting D17 manifold. D16 header fit tested. Fail = very yes.
PS, Herr Bell's book on turbocharging ist die Scheiße on der Engineering tip, yo.
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From: Portland, Oregon
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^ Thanks, no problem man.
Any additional information anyone wants added, let me know, I'm sure I forgot something.
Any additional information anyone wants added, let me know, I'm sure I forgot something.
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From: Portland, Oregon
Rep Power: 388 Re: The ultimate DX/LX header/exhaust FAQ
Write something on the difference between non foulders / defoulers and 02 simulators for me.
the best kind of lovin is from the oven!
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From: Kansas City
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This might be a stupid question but here it goes. The flange on the megan header has smaller holes than their resonator pipe. How do i bolt them together? Has anyone else had this problem?
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From: Portland, Oregon
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Do the holes match up? If so, just use bolts that fit in the smaller holes and yeah, they will be a little lose in the bigger holes, but if they match up then everyhting should be all good.
the best kind of lovin is from the oven!
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From: Kansas City
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they match up, the bolts that came with the res pipe are are quite a bit larger. I might just drill them out. I'm curious because i saw a pic of another megan header with the same small holes.
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From: akron, ohio
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Easiest way to do this, like Triz said, is buy an EX header and catback exhaust.
Then go to Summit Racing and buy 2-1/4" inlet/outlet Magnaflow hi-flow cat. It's a real cat (not a test pipe), is OBD-2A compliant and costs $70. While you're there, buy a 4' length of 2-1/4" pipe ($10-12) and a 2-1/4" formed flange for $5 (P/N: WLK-31885) .
We're at $85 plus shipping right now.
Then head over to Mandrel Bending Solutions Ebay store (Click this), buy these items:
1 piece of 2-1/4" U-bend pipe - $12
1 three-bolt 2-14" flange - $4.25
1 two-bolt and 1 three-bolt gasket - $6 ($3/each)
1 oxygen sensor bung for your post cat sensor -$4
1 L-shaped hanger - $1.76
That's $33 plus shipping from Mandrel Bend Solutions. The whole new, truly 2-1/4" downpipe and real high-flow cat has just cost you $120 plus shipping for the parts. You will reuse those spring bolts already on your car.
Now take your new EX header, catback system, and box of exhaust parts to the nearest non-chain muffler shop. Point to the box of parts and the car and say, "I want all this stuff on my car, and I want all the stuff that's currently on my car put in these boxes. I'll be back in two hours, here's $150."
Go stuff some food down your gullet, have a beer, and then come back to your brand new, **** sounding exhaust.
I'll get your pics in a second Triz. I'm pissed off at the car and don't feel like going outside right now.
Then go to Summit Racing and buy 2-1/4" inlet/outlet Magnaflow hi-flow cat. It's a real cat (not a test pipe), is OBD-2A compliant and costs $70. While you're there, buy a 4' length of 2-1/4" pipe ($10-12) and a 2-1/4" formed flange for $5 (P/N: WLK-31885) .
We're at $85 plus shipping right now.
Then head over to Mandrel Bending Solutions Ebay store (Click this), buy these items:
1 piece of 2-1/4" U-bend pipe - $12
1 three-bolt 2-14" flange - $4.25
1 two-bolt and 1 three-bolt gasket - $6 ($3/each)
1 oxygen sensor bung for your post cat sensor -$4
1 L-shaped hanger - $1.76
That's $33 plus shipping from Mandrel Bend Solutions. The whole new, truly 2-1/4" downpipe and real high-flow cat has just cost you $120 plus shipping for the parts. You will reuse those spring bolts already on your car.
Now take your new EX header, catback system, and box of exhaust parts to the nearest non-chain muffler shop. Point to the box of parts and the car and say, "I want all this stuff on my car, and I want all the stuff that's currently on my car put in these boxes. I'll be back in two hours, here's $150."
Go stuff some food down your gullet, have a beer, and then come back to your brand new, **** sounding exhaust.
I'll get your pics in a second Triz. I'm pissed off at the car and don't feel like going outside right now.
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From: Portland, Oregon
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^ stock EX unless your looking for the best aftermarket header. Then I would say DC sports race header- continently proven to yield power gains.
Re: The ultimate DX/LX header/exhaust FAQ
Does anyone have a used D16Y7 header? E-mail me at cleft_asunder@yahoo.com.
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From: Portland, Oregon
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Does anyone have a used D16Y7 header? E-mail me at cleft_asunder@yahoo.com.
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From: Portland, Oregon
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Yeah I dont know anything about 6th gen exhausts. I"m pretty sure if I could look at an lx and an ex engine bay I could tell you whats up. Most of the info still holds, just the parts are different.
the best kind of lovin is from the oven!
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From: Kansas City
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Yes they make catback exhausts for lx/dx models, or you can use the aforementioned lx to ex exhaust swap, both will work.
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From: akron, ohio
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has anyone else done this swap besides speedfoos? i just bought dc headers for an ex and im in the process of getting a skunk2 cat-back but just wanted to make sure before i went through with all of it.
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From: akron, ohio
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i also wanted to make sure that the piping for the 4dr is the same as the 2dr concerning the cat converter since the original was done on a 2dr and im doing mine on a 4 dr.
