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My DH Ported Head (PICS)!

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Old Apr 26, 2004
  #211  
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wait so you cant get the header on or the head, if its the header that damn bolt near the bottom gives everyone trouble but it comes off eventually
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Old Apr 26, 2004
  #212  
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Both. The shop keeps giving excuses about the head. I'm trying to put on the header in the meantime, but I can't get any of the bolts off. Now they're ruined from me pushing so hard.
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Old Apr 26, 2004
  #213  
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wd 40 and a long wrench will get the bolts off the header
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Old Apr 26, 2004
  #214  
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^^ His problem is that he rounded them off. He no longer has any grip on them. I dunno what to tell you man, mine came off like lugs.
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Old Apr 26, 2004
  #215  
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Originally posted by gearbox
Both. The shop keeps giving excuses about the head. I'm trying to put on the header in the meantime, but I can't get any of the bolts off. Now they're ruined from me pushing so hard.

Gearbox,

I don't know the size of the bolts in question, although the following may help:

( www.sears.com )

Craftsman Bolt-Out™ Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set

5 pc. set fits many popular sizes (metric/SAE) bolt heads and nuts. Spiral flute design grabs and removes rusted, painted over and rounded off nuts/bolts (fit may vary due to corrosion/damage/paint).


Sears item #00952160000
Mfr. model #52160


the kit has several different sizes - I don't know if the size you need is in the kit..

--
or you could try to "tap" a box-end wrench (1) size smaller than the bolt size onto the bolt w/ a block of wood & hammer and use a length of pipe fitted over the wrench (as leverage) to turn the bolt out. If you try this, I'd be using a lot of (Liquid Wrench) or WD40 & letting it soak into the bolts/head for a few hours minimal when the engine is cold / has not been run for several hours - if the header & bolts are warm, they will expand making turning them out much more difficult.

I hope the info helps.
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Old Apr 26, 2004
  #216  
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Thanks for the info. It's just that they wouldn't budge. With the force I was applying, it was rounding off the bolts before loosening them. How stupid! I even used something called PB blaster that's supposed to be the best for soaking into metal and loosening bolts. Didn't work at all.
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Old Apr 26, 2004
  #217  
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should heat the bolts up with a torch until they where flaming hot and then crank away. I had troubles with mine to when I installed my DC header until I took it to my shop and he heated the suckers up and it finally came out
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Old Apr 26, 2004
  #218  
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Thanks. Now where can I get a blow torch? I'll probably just go to a shop and see what they can do. I've been to three already with no luck.

Anyone near Champaign that can install the ported head for me?
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Old Apr 26, 2004
  #219  
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It sounds like the bolts might be "cooked" on the Header.

If the Header is steel, you could try heating just the bolts with a propane torch & hitting them with WD40 to break the seal, let them cool and tap on & around each bolt w/ a ball peen hammer to further break the seal: if the Header is cast I'd be real careful trying this - it could crack the Header. If you do try this, be careful & have a fire extinguisher handy, IAC.

( If the bolts weren't over-tourqued when the Header was put on, just heating the bolts might be enough to expand/contract them to break the seal -> allow them to be backed out. )

If unsure of any of this, I'd let the shop handle it - air tools really make doing this stuff much easier.

( And it would be easier with a lift to get the exhaust disconnected, if that is pre-tensioning the Header / putting extra tension on the bolts. )


Best wishes on the Head install, hope it all goes well.
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Old Apr 26, 2004
  #220  
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so did we strip the head bolts or the header bolts???
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Old Apr 26, 2004
  #221  
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if the bolts are rounded off, then take a smaller size socket, heat up the bolt and pound on the socket with a hammer. If you can't break them loose, use a breaker bar, and if that doesn't help, you can put a pipe on the breaker bar, but use common sense. If the bolt broke, you will have to drill and tap it.
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Old Apr 26, 2004
  #222  
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Okay, I'm gonna try and find a shop to do it. I just can't do this with my tools. I don't want to risk drilling and end up ruining the head. Looks like now I'm gonna need new header bolts. Looks like another week wait for those. Is anything easy to do on cars anymore?
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Old Apr 27, 2004
  #223  
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Hmm, The DH-Racing shops website said that they were located in Lancaster California, I live in Palmdale California, the next town over. I have never heard of the shop before???

Maybe Catalyst knows where the shop was.?
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Old Apr 27, 2004
  #224  
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I found this on my ported head box.

DH-RACING.COM
43712 OLEANDER ST
LANCASTER, CA 93535
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Old Apr 27, 2004
  #225  
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That address is most likely a residential address. I have lived in Palmdale all my life, I would have heard a company such as DH-racing. I never knew.
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Old Apr 27, 2004
  #226  
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plug the address into mapquest. You'll find out. I dont know why gearbox is having soo much trouble with the header bolts. I soked them in wd-40 and was able to get them to come off first try. The only hard one was the one right by the alt.

Gearbox- good luck finding a shop.
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Old Apr 27, 2004
  #227  
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Ya, the right one near the alt was a pain in the ***. I used a 6" extension and finally broke it loose. It was an EASY install, but no doubt a beginner could do it, I just think gearbox got unlucky.
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Old Apr 27, 2004
  #228  
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You could always use the Craftsman Bolt-Out Bolt/Nut Remover with some Parts Buster PB). You can get PB at AutoZone for a few bucks a can, the stuff literally eats rust and crap off of bolts, a DEFINATE improvement over WD-40. Just hose 'em down, wait 20 minutes and give em a try. I've found that drenching the bolts repeatedly while wiping it off with a cloth also works well. If you can let it soak in for 12 hours or so then hit it with a wire brush that should fix it if nothin' else works.
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Old Apr 27, 2004
  #229  
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Originally posted by maxsin
That address is most likely a residential address. I have lived in Palmdale all my life, I would have heard a company such as DH-racing. I never knew.


This is from Honda-Tech.......

Originally posted by 99Hybrid_Hatch

I used to live in lancaster where "dickman" is from..he is very well known for blowing **** up..and to top things off..his motor is a 2.1L that he clams is a 1.6.
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Old Apr 27, 2004
  #230  
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For the bolts, I have to take those things off every time I do something turbo related lol... I have it down to a science now. for the nuts, the worst I ever had to do was dremel the nut on the very side of the manifold. It was stuck. After a little cutting a flathead screwdriver eased enough tension where I could take the ratchet to it and take it right off. Honda sells those nuts, the new ones look to be higher quality and are dirt cheap. I bought a ton of extras and they all still look new to this day.
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Old Apr 27, 2004
  #231  
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I used to live in lancaster where "****man" is from..he is very well known for blowing **** up..and to top things off..his motor is a 2.1L that he clams is a 1.6.
Also note that DH sells a 2.1L "stroker" that, if memory serves, started life as a 1.6.

Funny that he is known for blowing things up...
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Old Apr 30, 2004
  #232  
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You guys will get a kick out of this one. I got an estimate at another shop and said I'm supplying all the parts and fluids. They quoted me $800 for the head swap. I asked about the header and that's over $100! Are shops getting stupider every day?

Well, I'm back to the old place now. They told me to call again, and hopefully late next week it will be on.
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Old Apr 30, 2004
  #233  
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Originally posted by gearbox
You guys will get a kick out of this one. I got an estimate at another shop and said I'm supplying all the parts and fluids. They quoted me $800 for the head swap. I asked about the header and that's over $100! Are shops getting stupider every day?

Well, I'm back to the old place now. They told me to call again, and hopefully late next week it will be on.
na, they're not becoming more stupid...... they're becoming bigger and bigger @ssholes. if you think thats funny when i was looking to get my body kit painted and installed one body shop quoted me $3000.... thats too paint a bumper and 3 small pieces which are lips.

i personally think shops give rediculous prices liek that because they dont feel liek doing the work so they give a price knowing that you'll go away.
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Old Apr 30, 2004
  #234  
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Originally posted by nivenmk1
Also note that DH sells a 2.1L "stroker" that, if memory serves, started life as a 1.6.

Funny that he is known for blowing things up...
no surprize there.
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Old May 2, 2004
  #235  
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Another thing I'm worried about. The exhaust ports on the head are bigger than those on the header and gasket. Is this gonna cause problems in terms of air flowing properly?
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Old May 2, 2004
  #236  
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wuh oh....is the header metal thick enough so that you can bore it out with a dremmel tool? Maybe DH makes headers also.....no, for once I'm being serious.
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Old May 2, 2004
  #237  
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So what would happen if I just slap everything in there? Will the air bounce off the gasket or something? I didn't think DH was making the actual holes bigger, just the inside. So now what?
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Old May 2, 2004
  #238  
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that'll hinder the airflow, which will dampen the benefit you receive from a PnP head as far as I can see. I wonder if you could get away with boring out the header and gasket just to fit flush....what do you think?
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Old May 2, 2004
  #239  
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Well I sure can't do it. And I don't think the install guy would be able to. I'll ask anyway and see what he thinks. It's really stupid now because I don't know of anyplace that will widen the header. The gasket is way too small for the head, though.
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Old May 2, 2004
  #240  
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you don't have a dremmell tool? or files?
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