Rep Power: 222

"Dammit...what you're describing is exactly it! A pulsed boom once every second. I could have sworn my timing was perfect. So, what you're saying is in order for me to correct this I have to take off the upper timing cover off and see that it's at TDC and then look down to see if the pulley marker is lined up to the white marker? Is this correct?"

can you hear the booming through the intake? it may again be the IACV as mine did this as well and it was corrected through retiming and properly purging the coolant. if you have air in the coolant system it can cause the engine to stall as the IACV needs proper coolant to correctly idle. I had timing off by two teeth on the exhaust side and it can also cause this.

 
Rep Power: 204

UPDATE:

I planned on checking the timing last night but instead first wanted to attempt the Idle Learning Procedure though my car idled fine. Still this was recommended in the manual to get the air bubbles out of the system...though, again, my temp gauge read perfectly fine. Nevertheless, I wanted to go through with it in hopes it would eradicate the "pulsing boom (very low tone)" noise.

Put the key in, turn it to on position (without starting the car), for 20 seconds then started the car and brought her up to operating temp...wateva that is...just waited for the temp gauge to settle and used that as a guide then rev'd her to 3K rpm and held it there for 2 mins or so. Radiator fan never activated (I checked the fan relay but that was stupid because I didn't even know what to look out for). Fuses weren't broken or anything. Anyhow, after the rev I let it idle for 30 seconds and then turned off the engine.

Let it sit for a minute then turned her back on and tried to listen for the noise and nothing. No more pulsing boom of the sort.

Test drove her around the neighborhood and no issues.

Drove the car to work today and temp gauge was perfect, no issues with the car stalling, no pulsing boom noise, no acceleration issues...but when I accidentally turned on the A/C when I meant to turn on the heater I heard a squeaking noise...GREAT! Drive belt's too tight...no worries, it's an easy fix.

Arrived at work 30 minutes ago and smelled something burning...lifted the hood and couldn't fine anything wrong or where the smell was coming from. Well actually it smelled like burning oil and the first place I looked was the head cover gasket which I mentioned had a tiny bit of oil sipping or rather floating around the gasket. Nope, nothing...I mean it's still there but it's not dripping down or anything.

Moved my nose directly above the A/C and the smell was strongest around that area. I don't know...you got me.

 
Rep Power: 812

good to hear. i prolly shouldve asked what your idle rpm was at the time because lower than 750 and you can get the same booming noises when the engine struggles to stay on. about the smell, its prolly just from the stuff you fixed. no matter how careful i am when doing work on the car, something always spills somewhere that i cant see. it should go away in a few weeks if its just a spill or something burning off. if everything is working, just call it a day and fix the belt.

 
Rep Power: 253

I believe you may have an a/c compressor going bad. I am not 100% sure but when you accidently hit the ac compressor on it was the clucth making noise.

Think about it, even if the a/c is off the a/c belt is still spinning. Its probably the a/c clucth making the noise.

Ill have to agree with gearbox and just say you spilled something on or near the exhaust. Only time will tell.

Just as a percation, every morning for the next day or 2 in the morning when the car is ice cold, check your coolant and add as necessary. I ALWAYS do this even after bleeding because even if you do a good job on bleeding it takes a day of driving to get that last little bit of air out. However I am probably just super ****..

 
Rep Power: 812

while that sounds logical, i've had belt noises start only when the a/c is on (and car was parked). i sprayed belt dressing and the noise went away. i cant explain it, but it happens.

 
Rep Power: 204

My car's an AT and no noise prior.

I thought of this before and I totally agree however I think when you turn the A/C on the belt tightens even more or rather places more pressure/stress on the pulley adjuster hence the noise. I think it's the pulley adjuster that's on too tight. I won't have time to work on the car till Sunday afternoon as I'm off to the track to race/compete on my motorcycle.


Werd!

I've decided to replace the head cover gasket...there's just too much oil floating under the gasket for my liking.

Thanks guys!

 
Rep Power: 0

I suspect that it's the water pump seal. Does it only leak when the engine is running?

 
Rep Power: 204

Dang bro...not sure if you're just trolling or if you're trying to live up to your screen name.

J/K

Leak's already diagnosed, and yes it is the water pump seal along with the lower radiator hose and clamp. As for the oil leak, the o-ring in the oil pump was the culprit.

Anyhow, as for the A/C screeching noise I recall over tightening the adjuster pulley and loosened the bolt a couple turns and the screeching noise went away when I turned on the A/C.



Final Conclusion:

If you're ever going to replace a part that has fluid (coolant/oil) behind it always buy OEM. Back when I did the whole timing belt/WP/drive belts/etc. change I bought a kit from Amazon cuz that was the most inexpensive kit I could find. Here's the original thread. At the time I thought I was saving tons of money but in the end it cost me more in down time by having to drive my truck which cost $100 a week in gas and buying replacement parts.

When I swapped the WP I kept the OEM and I'm glad I did cuz that's what's in there now and so far no leaks. I truly believe the design of the aftermarket WP caused the seal to go bad. The width of the groove where the o-ring seats is so small the o-ring sits on top rather than in the groove like shown for the OEM below:






OEM water pumps from what I've read on this forum and others rarely go bad. However, if you want to replace the water pump make darn sure it's bad before having to spend all that money on a new one.

As for the oil leak by the lower part of the timing belt cover, I discovered the main two causes were the cam seal and the o-ring. More so the o-ring than the cam seal. Taking out the cam seal without nicking the housing was darn near impossible. You're better off buying a whole new assembly like I did.

Personally, going through the whole DIY timing belt/WP/drive belt/etc. change before made replacing the belly pan, oil pump, lower radiator hose, and the water pump o-ring that much easier.

Sorry I wasn't able to write up a DIY belly pan, oil pump, oil pump, lower radiator hose, and the water pump o-ring replacement procedure. However if you have questions or need help with yours hit me up as I'm more than willing to explain/assist you.

I'll call the dealership and get a quote for the work I performed above and see how much I was able to save.

 
Rep Power: 204

Got the following quote from Norm Reeves Honda: All prices includes labor but not tax


$155.00 for lower radiator hose
$550.00 for water pump includes seal (they would not install/sell just the o-ring alone)
$815 for oil pump

TOTAL: $1520 (NOT including tax)



This is what I paid to do the job myself:

19222-P08-004-Honda O-RING, WATER PUMP (YAMADA) $2.66
11251-P2A-014-Honda GASKET, OIL PAN (OTSUKA) $24.86
11200-P2E-000-Honda PAN, OIL $84.81
15200-P2A-000-Honda PIPE, OIL LEVEL $7.27 (Optional)
19502-P2A-000-Honda HOSE, WATER (LOWER) $12.81
15100-P7A-013-Honda PUMP ASSY., OIL (YAMADA) $100.12
Honda Liquid Gasket $13.68
Shipping Fee $25.00
4 qts of Mobil 1 5w-30 Syn $35.96
1 gallon of coolant $11.34
oil filter $12
Let's add tax for good measure $34.00

TOTAL: $364.51


A total savings of $1155 (give or take)!!!

 
Rep Power: 367

1520?!?!?!?!?
did you show yer middle one to them?!?!?

 
Rep Power: 812

what a ripoff. 155 for changing a stupid hose? it takes 5 mins and $20 in parts (unless you have issues and cant put the hose on the inlet)

 
Rep Power: 204

^^^


When they said $155 for the lower hose I was like, "Okay, I can understand that."

 
Rep Power: 234

^^ lol

 
Rep Power: 204

I was just cleaning out my subscribed threads and came across this old thread that contained a pic that looked just like mine.

My oil leak on the oil breather chamber from this thread:



His oil leak on the oil breather chamber:


Granted his is more severe than mine, he later discovered the oil leak was from a bad head gasket. See below pic:



But here's my question: Why did he circle the bolt and not just point to the gasket between the block/head? If oil sips out through the bolt I'm gonna have to check mine tonight.