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So fuel doesn't spray out when you disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail.. I didn't depressurize it, and only a little bit of fuel came out.

 
Rep Power: 367

i did not disconnect the line - just moved it to behind the intake

 
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I didn't disconnect the line. You will however get some fuel when disconnecting the injectors...

 
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Anyone know how much a shop/dealer would charge to do this.
I'm getting to old to work on cars like these, it would not be a problem if it were an older V8

 
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Nice DIY, I should have done this with my b series. I might go ahead and do that and show how to replace valves and everything to cause I'm in the process of that.

 
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Everyone removing heads keep taking pictujres.. if enough pictures show up I might get the motivation to finish the reassemble for this.

 
Rep Power: 367

here is why the alternator bracket was a pain. Yes, there is a socket in there...

Ah, do not go too hard on the crankshaft position sensor...
here is why: in 2 parts... wondering what next on that, but in 2 days to think about... not gonna work on that tonight - grrrr!

 
Rep Power: 367

Additional info from another thread:
^ That made me decide to keep the upper cover out - It was a pain to remove the sensor and afterwards i wanted to make sure everything was in place, so kept cover off - will not reduce belt life by that much anyways

 
Rep Power: 367

Also, there have been several members coming back from the timing belt job and having troubles of not going above xxxRPM, of car not working well.

I believe we did not mention, but HAVE a CODE READER handy for after the job is done and firing the engine up - solved a lot of the troubles i had afterwards. We need to disconnect too many of the control sensors out, and chances are you will have forgotten to hook up something...

 
Rep Power: 313

Yes code reader is good to have around but hopefully you won't and shouldn't need it if your meticulous enough and take your time

 
Rep Power: 367

counted 3 in a week that does not meet requirements :P

 
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I have just replaced the head on my 03 civic ex. 1.7 and now it idles rough. can any1 help me

 
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does anyone have the order for the head bolt to be reinstalled and also the torque for them? i might have to do this so im trying to find out before i do this

 
Rep Power: 313

Ehh sorry for my late response but you don't need to get new head bolts unless youve already reused them. Honda head bolts arent stretch fit so they last a couple changes anyway. However, if you absolutely must replace them:

http://www.hondapartscheap.com/index...20(SOHC%20VTEC)

^ Part #18 is your head bolt. 90005-PM3-003

I suggest getting ARP head studs if your replacing the bolts however.

 
Rep Power: 512

and here's a link to the ARP ones. I decided to install a set of ARP headstuds i've had laying around for a while when I did my head gasket job.

http://www.dezod.com/pd_arp_head_stud_kithonda.cfm

Word of warning if you're gonna install 'em... I accidentally dropped one of the nuts in my downpipe when I was reassembling everything. Don't be like me. Lol

I forgot what the stock torque spec on head bolts were, but for the ARP studs, the torque spec is 60ft-lbs in 3 steps

source: http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/208-4301.pdf

 
Rep Power: 313

I dropped a bolt into a gallon of oil I was using to lubricate them... *#(&%(@#*$&@(

 
Rep Power: 313

I just realized I totally left out removing the driver side and front plastic shields from the car

 
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When and if I ever get around to doing my head gasket... I am just going to pull the whole motor and mount it on an engine stand. I feel like that would be a bit easier access wise.

 
Rep Power: 313

Probably about the same amount of work. Only you don't need to remove all the mounts and stuff. I say changing the head gasket is still easier.

 
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Can someone help me out? As I was taking apart the splash shield for the timing belt this bolt fell out, but I havent a clue where it came from.



Can someone help me out?

 
Rep Power: 512

I believe that's the bolt that secures the bracket that the alternator tensioner bolt screws in to.

 
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Part B..??

 
Rep Power: 512

That's what I was thinking

 
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Sweet. Thanks a lot guys.

 
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Any idea of what to torque the stock head bolts too? Also I read that there is a pattern that ya have to do?

 
Rep Power: 313

Before you torque them make sure you dip the cylinder head bolts in fresh new oil, from the tip of the bolt to near the head. The cylinder head is torqued three times with three different specifications. In this order:



First to 14 ft/lbs
Second to 36 ft/lbs
Third to 49 ft/lbs

That's it I suggest using a beam type torque wrench for the 14 ft/lbs. Up to you on the others.

If you do use a click type be very careful not to over tighten them, these aluminum heads don't like it much.

 
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Boys, I'm having troubles. I got everything back together, all connectors hooked up, but the engine won't start. It just keeps turning over, we checked fuel, spark, air. No problems. We're completely stumped.

 
Rep Power: 512

How long you try for? It may take a bit for your fuel lines to "fill" back up

Mine wouldn't start for a good couple of minutes, but when she finally did, she purred just fine

 
Rep Power: 313

Yikes, mine fired right up like nobodies business... Turn the key to the II position without starting the car and back to off. Should prime enough gas to start it up. Still might take a couple attempts but you should be able to get it going. Other than that check your work over, if everything looks ok compression test might be in order.

 
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Ive turned the car over enough to drain 2 batteries. The fuel pump is working, there is plenty of pressure in the fuel rail. But nothing coming out of the injectors. Do the cam sensor or crank sensor tell when the injectors to fire?