Update for EMANAGE: WORKING SETUP FOR EXs!!!
7thgen Power Maker
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We are getting VTEC. I confirmed it with the Honda Diagnostic code reader. The VTEC enagages, but the switch turns on and off sparatically according to my buddy who came along for the monitoring.
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Originally Posted by HyaBoosta
would there really be a big benifit to lowering the vtec engaugment on boost?
7thgen Power Maker
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Originally Posted by HyaBoosta
but wouldn't the vafcII do this easily. the only beifit i can see of the emange is the ignition timing.
1. Injector Duty Cycle
2. VTEC Engagement
3. AIR/Fuel
4. Data Logging
5. Map Tracing
6. Timing
7. GReddy Pressure Sensor
8. Sub Injector Controller
9. Boost limiter cut
10. Anti-engine stall
V-AFC II
1. VTEC Engagment
2. AIR/Fuel
E-Manage > A'PEXi V-AFC II
Thread Starter
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From: Arizona
Rep Power: 326 I am about to go hook this thing up to do everything but VTEC. Hopfully we can find something that works. Dezod is attempting the same as we speak. Both of us should have a solution soon.
Thread Starter
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From: Arizona
Rep Power: 326 Ok we tried every setting there was.
Final Verdict:
With what we see on the boards, and with what Greddy gives you, there is know way to properly control VTEC on 01-04 Civics. 4-8-E works, hooked up and all, but the VTEC is electronic only, meaning the VTM wire is still on the low cam.
The emanage thinks it's changing VTEC, and logs it, but VTEC wont kick in because the only jumpers that work are set to not use a VTM.
4-8-C is what I ended up going with. I have the exact same setup as Optoisolator whcih works EXTREMELY well. My car has rediculous top end, because I left all the VTEC wiring stock (nothing VTEC touches the emanage). The settings 4-8-C require you to set the jumpers inside to control VTEC, but you don't have to wire it. The only thing you have to do use check off the air flow adjustment map under your parameter settings and you'll be fine. Once again, opto started this and deserves credit for those findings. I added some fuel to my top end and it feels pretty nice. Doesn't bog down either so the safer the better.
Only other possibility: If you hook up 4-8-C and wire the VTEC system into it (purple, light blue, yellow) you have one thing to play with. If you go to parameter setting, on the top right you will see a pull down box allowing you to change your air flow metering. I tried the default which is 3. Once VTEC engages for the first time the engine goes into limp mode and wont rev past 4k (even with the deadband set correctly). I tried Air flow 1, and it through a CEL instantly, and went into limp mode before I even engaged VTEC once. I have an OBDII scanner, and it shows that I had an air flow meter error. The only thing I can think of is to manually change the air flow metering settings to each one and see what happens. One of those MAY do the trick.
Until then, I can now adjust my fuel and my VTEC works fine. I don't see the need to change it, right around 4200rpms my car pulls like a motha! I will soon be able to adjust ignition timing and crank up the boost a little more, once I get more familiar with the software. Until then, I'm happy. Hopfully you guys get this right the first try and save yourselves the aggrevation. Good luck and happy tuning!
-Joe
Final Verdict:
With what we see on the boards, and with what Greddy gives you, there is know way to properly control VTEC on 01-04 Civics. 4-8-E works, hooked up and all, but the VTEC is electronic only, meaning the VTM wire is still on the low cam.
The emanage thinks it's changing VTEC, and logs it, but VTEC wont kick in because the only jumpers that work are set to not use a VTM.
4-8-C is what I ended up going with. I have the exact same setup as Optoisolator whcih works EXTREMELY well. My car has rediculous top end, because I left all the VTEC wiring stock (nothing VTEC touches the emanage). The settings 4-8-C require you to set the jumpers inside to control VTEC, but you don't have to wire it. The only thing you have to do use check off the air flow adjustment map under your parameter settings and you'll be fine. Once again, opto started this and deserves credit for those findings. I added some fuel to my top end and it feels pretty nice. Doesn't bog down either so the safer the better.
Only other possibility: If you hook up 4-8-C and wire the VTEC system into it (purple, light blue, yellow) you have one thing to play with. If you go to parameter setting, on the top right you will see a pull down box allowing you to change your air flow metering. I tried the default which is 3. Once VTEC engages for the first time the engine goes into limp mode and wont rev past 4k (even with the deadband set correctly). I tried Air flow 1, and it through a CEL instantly, and went into limp mode before I even engaged VTEC once. I have an OBDII scanner, and it shows that I had an air flow meter error. The only thing I can think of is to manually change the air flow metering settings to each one and see what happens. One of those MAY do the trick.
Until then, I can now adjust my fuel and my VTEC works fine. I don't see the need to change it, right around 4200rpms my car pulls like a motha! I will soon be able to adjust ignition timing and crank up the boost a little more, once I get more familiar with the software. Until then, I'm happy. Hopfully you guys get this right the first try and save yourselves the aggrevation. Good luck and happy tuning!
-Joe
7thgen Power Maker
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Originally Posted by MadWheel
yeah i will tomorrow... laptop is still in the car and im about ready for bed...
So all in all.....The E-Manage is ready to romp 7thgens on these settings.
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Rep Power: 0 Glad I read up on this thread. I'm getting all the info I need to know so when your kit comes out Dezod, I'll be purchasing that as long as my funding is available. I also have the convenience of living not too far from Joe so I can always give him a call to help me out with it. Good stuff tho guys.
7thgen Power Maker
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Originally Posted by HyaBoosta
so were theese settings put in after the vtec wiring was removed or is the vtec wiring still on?
Rotary settings set to 4-8-C
No VTEC wires were connected (VTEC in, out or VTM)
Thread Starter
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From: Arizona
Rep Power: 326 Make the emanage think it's set for a VTEC engine. When you choose your parameter settings, make sure to not check off VTEC and then you'll be all set. I am only adjusting fuel right now and it definately works.
I'll be hopfully taking it to the track tomorrow night to see if it's helped yet, even without dyno tuning. Once I have money again I'll be hitting up a dyno to really get it set up right.
I'll be hopfully taking it to the track tomorrow night to see if it's helped yet, even without dyno tuning. Once I have money again I'll be hitting up a dyno to really get it set up right.
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From: Zulu Alpha Tango Foxtrot
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Originally Posted by MadWheel
Make the emanage think it's set for a VTEC engine. When you choose your parameter settings, make sure to not check off VTEC and then you'll be all set. I am only adjusting fuel right now and it definately works.
I'll be hopfully taking it to the track tomorrow night to see if it's helped yet, even without dyno tuning. Once I have money again I'll be hitting up a dyno to really get it set up right.
I'll be hopfully taking it to the track tomorrow night to see if it's helped yet, even without dyno tuning. Once I have money again I'll be hitting up a dyno to really get it set up right.
7thgen Power Maker
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Originally Posted by opto_isolator
Or - if you really want to get creative - you might be able to enable vtec, and use the output as a shift light!
Creativity like whoa! LOL
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From: Arizona
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Originally Posted by Jeff
Hey madwheel, have any settings for a dx/lx jumper settings. Mine will be here soon and since you have messed with it the most, any info would help .
The settings I used will work for you. Just don't hook up the VTM wire, or the 2 VTEC wires and it will work. Leave everything else the way I hooked mine up which was posted earlier. This is the same setup as optoisolator.
I found a picture of the emanage circuit board. If you want you could use this in a diy showing the correct jumper settings. (the jumper setting in the picture are not for our cars, i just found it on the internet).
http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/pho...cuit_board.jpg
http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/pho...cuit_board.jpg
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From: Halifax, Nova Scotia
Rep Power: 0 E-manage setup for Boost on 2001 EX
I am still looking for a base map to use before I start dyno tuning, if anybody knows of where I can get one it would be greatly appreciated. But for anyone who is having trouble getting the wiring, & jumpers & switches set properly for the 2001 EX (With VTEC), here is what I have:
JP 1 1-2
JP 2 2-3
JP 3 2-3
JP 4 1-2
JP 5 Open
JP 6 Open
JP 7 Open
If I have JP 4 Set to Open, I get an error 14 When I turn the car on, "VTEC Signal Input Error."
Switch Settings:
4-8-C Works for me,
4-8-B Blows the 15A Coil Pack Fuse!
My Injector Settings are:
CH-1 Inj 1
CH-2 Inj 3
CH-3 Inj 4
CH-4 Inj 2
My Ignition Settings Are:
CH-1 Cyl 1
CH-2 Cyl 3
CH-3 Cyl 4
CH-4 Cyl 2
These settings seem to work for my car, but I am having a strange problem:
When I first start the car after being off for a while, the "Error 14 Code" Appears, saying I have a "VTEC Signal Input Error." But If I turn off the car, and back on it just goes away....?? This is very strange, and I think it might have something to do with the oil pressure not being at a certain level or something until the car warms up, any ideas on that one? Sometimes it does not do it though!
My other confusion is at 2000. 3000, 4000, 5000 & 6000 rpm the green light turns a solid Orange/Red! I wonder why?
I notice that in the Support Tool, Parameter Setup Where I am using;
HN_PR-1 for the Air Flow Meter Change
The A.A.V. Rpm Setup Uses these Rpm points. Is this a problem, or is it just showing me it is doing something?
I still have not received my entire turbo setup from SF yet, but I am trying to get this e-manage under control first.
JP 1 1-2
JP 2 2-3
JP 3 2-3
JP 4 1-2
JP 5 Open
JP 6 Open
JP 7 Open
If I have JP 4 Set to Open, I get an error 14 When I turn the car on, "VTEC Signal Input Error."
Switch Settings:
4-8-C Works for me,
4-8-B Blows the 15A Coil Pack Fuse!
My Injector Settings are:
CH-1 Inj 1
CH-2 Inj 3
CH-3 Inj 4
CH-4 Inj 2
My Ignition Settings Are:
CH-1 Cyl 1
CH-2 Cyl 3
CH-3 Cyl 4
CH-4 Cyl 2
These settings seem to work for my car, but I am having a strange problem:
When I first start the car after being off for a while, the "Error 14 Code" Appears, saying I have a "VTEC Signal Input Error." But If I turn off the car, and back on it just goes away....?? This is very strange, and I think it might have something to do with the oil pressure not being at a certain level or something until the car warms up, any ideas on that one? Sometimes it does not do it though!
My other confusion is at 2000. 3000, 4000, 5000 & 6000 rpm the green light turns a solid Orange/Red! I wonder why?
I notice that in the Support Tool, Parameter Setup Where I am using;
HN_PR-1 for the Air Flow Meter Change
The A.A.V. Rpm Setup Uses these Rpm points. Is this a problem, or is it just showing me it is doing something?
I still have not received my entire turbo setup from SF yet, but I am trying to get this e-manage under control first.
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From: Halifax, Nova Scotia
Rep Power: 0 I found this on the Yahoo e-manage support group;
JP1 Ignition input pullup/pulldown select
1-2 A resistor is pulled down to ground
2-3 A resistor is pulled up the +ve rail
* Use 1-2 when the ECU's driver transistor is
connected to ground
* Use 2-3 when the ECU's driver transistor is
connected to +ve (5V or 12V will determine JP2's
setting)
Supposedly you can see the input voltage in the Main Unit Setting
Information window. If it's 0v, use 1-2. If it's 5v or more, use 2-
3.
JP2 Ignition output select
1-2 Output resistor connected to +5V
2-3 Output resistor connected to +12V
* This will depend on the ECU ignitor signals output
* JP2 enables the e-manage to duplicate the amplitude
of the original signal
JP3 airflow/VTEC output select
1-2 2nd airflow meter
2-3 VTEC
* Even if you don't have a 2nd airflow meter, leave it on 1-2 for
non-
VTEC applications
JP4 airflow/VTEC input select
1-2 VTEC
2-3 2nd airflow meter
* Even if you don't have a 2nd airflow meter, leave it on 2-3 for
non-
VTEC applications
* On 1-2, enables pulldown resistor (for use as VTM signal). This
is
required because the VTM output is inverted with the VTEC out.
JP5/JP6 Sub injector drivers
Jumper off - Disabled
1-2 - Enabled
* Only enable if you're going to control extra injectors with the E-
manage
JP7 VTEC
1-2 Non-VTEC
Jumper off - VTEC
* On 1-2, enables pullup resistor (for use as MAF output)
JP1 Ignition input pullup/pulldown select
1-2 A resistor is pulled down to ground
2-3 A resistor is pulled up the +ve rail
* Use 1-2 when the ECU's driver transistor is
connected to ground
* Use 2-3 when the ECU's driver transistor is
connected to +ve (5V or 12V will determine JP2's
setting)
Supposedly you can see the input voltage in the Main Unit Setting
Information window. If it's 0v, use 1-2. If it's 5v or more, use 2-
3.
JP2 Ignition output select
1-2 Output resistor connected to +5V
2-3 Output resistor connected to +12V
* This will depend on the ECU ignitor signals output
* JP2 enables the e-manage to duplicate the amplitude
of the original signal
JP3 airflow/VTEC output select
1-2 2nd airflow meter
2-3 VTEC
* Even if you don't have a 2nd airflow meter, leave it on 1-2 for
non-
VTEC applications
JP4 airflow/VTEC input select
1-2 VTEC
2-3 2nd airflow meter
* Even if you don't have a 2nd airflow meter, leave it on 2-3 for
non-
VTEC applications
* On 1-2, enables pulldown resistor (for use as VTM signal). This
is
required because the VTM output is inverted with the VTEC out.
JP5/JP6 Sub injector drivers
Jumper off - Disabled
1-2 - Enabled
* Only enable if you're going to control extra injectors with the E-
manage
JP7 VTEC
1-2 Non-VTEC
Jumper off - VTEC
* On 1-2, enables pullup resistor (for use as MAF output)
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From: Zulu Alpha Tango Foxtrot
Rep Power: 312
Originally Posted by Canadian2k1SI
I am still looking for a base map to use before I start dyno tuning, if anybody knows of where I can get one it would be greatly appreciated. But for anyone who is having trouble getting the wiring, & jumpers & switches set properly for the 2001 EX (With VTEC), here is what I have:
JP 1 1-2
JP 2 2-3
JP 3 2-3
JP 4 1-2
JP 5 Open
JP 6 Open
JP 7 Open
If I have JP 4 Set to Open, I get an error 14 When I turn the car on, "VTEC Signal Input Error."
Switch Settings:
4-8-C Works for me,
4-8-B Blows the 15A Coil Pack Fuse!
My Injector Settings are:
CH-1 Inj 1
CH-2 Inj 3
CH-3 Inj 4
CH-4 Inj 2
My Ignition Settings Are:
CH-1 Cyl 1
CH-2 Cyl 3
CH-3 Cyl 4
CH-4 Cyl 2
These settings seem to work for my car, but I am having a strange problem:
When I first start the car after being off for a while, the "Error 14 Code" Appears, saying I have a "VTEC Signal Input Error." But If I turn off the car, and back on it just goes away....?? This is very strange, and I think it might have something to do with the oil pressure not being at a certain level or something until the car warms up, any ideas on that one? Sometimes it does not do it though!
My other confusion is at 2000. 3000, 4000, 5000 & 6000 rpm the green light turns a solid Orange/Red! I wonder why?
I notice that in the Support Tool, Parameter Setup Where I am using;
HN_PR-1 for the Air Flow Meter Change
The A.A.V. Rpm Setup Uses these Rpm points. Is this a problem, or is it just showing me it is doing something?
I still have not received my entire turbo setup from SF yet, but I am trying to get this e-manage under control first.
JP 1 1-2
JP 2 2-3
JP 3 2-3
JP 4 1-2
JP 5 Open
JP 6 Open
JP 7 Open
If I have JP 4 Set to Open, I get an error 14 When I turn the car on, "VTEC Signal Input Error."
Switch Settings:
4-8-C Works for me,
4-8-B Blows the 15A Coil Pack Fuse!
My Injector Settings are:
CH-1 Inj 1
CH-2 Inj 3
CH-3 Inj 4
CH-4 Inj 2
My Ignition Settings Are:
CH-1 Cyl 1
CH-2 Cyl 3
CH-3 Cyl 4
CH-4 Cyl 2
These settings seem to work for my car, but I am having a strange problem:
When I first start the car after being off for a while, the "Error 14 Code" Appears, saying I have a "VTEC Signal Input Error." But If I turn off the car, and back on it just goes away....?? This is very strange, and I think it might have something to do with the oil pressure not being at a certain level or something until the car warms up, any ideas on that one? Sometimes it does not do it though!
My other confusion is at 2000. 3000, 4000, 5000 & 6000 rpm the green light turns a solid Orange/Red! I wonder why?
I notice that in the Support Tool, Parameter Setup Where I am using;
HN_PR-1 for the Air Flow Meter Change
The A.A.V. Rpm Setup Uses these Rpm points. Is this a problem, or is it just showing me it is doing something?
I still have not received my entire turbo setup from SF yet, but I am trying to get this e-manage under control first.
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,658
Likes: 4
From: Woostah
Rep Power: 413 There's already a thread in Tech about hooking up and running the e-manage that is stickied. Lets try and keep all this VERY useful info in one spot for people....
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=164441
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=164441
