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Does anybody know if you have to do any adjustments on the valve train with the stage 1 crower cam on the D17a2?

 
Rep Power: 511

you can just drop it in and go, well, assuming you didn't tinker with the timing belt, or, if you did, reset the timing correctly.

Valve clearance is supposed to be .006" (intake) and .008" (exhaust). The spec sheet I downloaded from Crower says to adjust cold, but the cam card on their website says that's the spec for a hot engine.. I tried contacting Crower, but they never responded.

Stock valve lash is .007-.009" intake and .009-.011" exhaust

edit: I just emailed them again. Hopefully I'll get an answer this time.

 
Rep Power: 811

valves are always adjusted cold, no exceptions. and yes you need to readjust the specs with a new camshaft.

 
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Sorry for the resurrection here...

You ever Hear back from Crower? i lost my sheet and want verification on this, im currently running stock valve lash and she is a bit more "Ticky" then before, thanks!

 
Rep Power: 811

you can have a performance shop that knows how to adjust valves make them a bit tighter, to help with the tick. but really some ticking will not hurt. the problems occur when they are too tight and you dont hear ticking. thats when you start burning valves. another problem with valve adjustments that most shops do not realize is even if you make the clearance perfect with a feeler gauge, it will change when you tighten the lock nut up. a small change, but it does make a difference when you consider there are 16 valves. most shops do not know or are not experienced enough to compensate for this and that is how many valve adjustments get messed up.

 
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Yeah, sorry. I completely forgot to post their response.

Crowe stage 1 spec is .006/.008 intake/exhaust COLD

 
Rep Power: 366

oh, wow, i always tought how we could disassemble everything fast enough to get to the adjusters before it gets cold

 
Rep Power: 511

Fckin Sandro.. being a smartass.. I hate your face.. No I don't.. lol

For those actually interested in my rebuttal.... Cold is a relative term. In this case (according to the Haynes manual I have.. I think.. Not quite sure on the source from which I'm citing), cold means the head is <100F

 
Rep Power: 366

100F is achievable

 
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Awesome thanks! That's pretty close to what mine is set at, just wanted verification!

@Gearbox:
This is why I do all my own work ha ha I double and triple check especially with Valve lash, it's super easy when you know what your doing. I did my cam swap and timing belt in my driveway, and would not have it any other way (ok a shop would be better but the next house I buy will have one) because at least I know it was done right.

 
Rep Power: 511

it was a huge pain in the *** for me when I tried adjusting my valve lash over the summer... lol