Stage 1 cam question
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you can just drop it in and go, well, assuming you didn't tinker with the timing belt, or, if you did, reset the timing correctly.
Valve clearance is supposed to be .006" (intake) and .008" (exhaust). The spec sheet I downloaded from Crower says to adjust cold, but the cam card on their website says that's the spec for a hot engine.. I tried contacting Crower, but they never responded.
Stock valve lash is .007-.009" intake and .009-.011" exhaust
edit: I just emailed them again. Hopefully I'll get an answer this time.
Valve clearance is supposed to be .006" (intake) and .008" (exhaust). The spec sheet I downloaded from Crower says to adjust cold, but the cam card on their website says that's the spec for a hot engine.. I tried contacting Crower, but they never responded.
Stock valve lash is .007-.009" intake and .009-.011" exhaust
edit: I just emailed them again. Hopefully I'll get an answer this time.
Last edited by xRiCeBoYx; 08-26-2012 at 03:31 PM.
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valves are always adjusted cold, no exceptions. and yes you need to readjust the specs with a new camshaft.
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you can just drop it in and go, well, assuming you didn't tinker with the timing belt, or, if you did, reset the timing correctly.
Valve clearance is supposed to be .006" (intake) and .008" (exhaust). The spec sheet I downloaded from Crower says to adjust cold, but the cam card on their website says that's the spec for a hot engine.. I tried contacting Crower, but they never responded.
Stock valve lash is .007-.009" intake and .009-.011" exhaust
edit: I just emailed them again. Hopefully I'll get an answer this time.
Valve clearance is supposed to be .006" (intake) and .008" (exhaust). The spec sheet I downloaded from Crower says to adjust cold, but the cam card on their website says that's the spec for a hot engine.. I tried contacting Crower, but they never responded.
Stock valve lash is .007-.009" intake and .009-.011" exhaust
edit: I just emailed them again. Hopefully I'll get an answer this time.
You ever Hear back from Crower? i lost my sheet and want verification on this, im currently running stock valve lash and she is a bit more "Ticky" then before, thanks!
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you can have a performance shop that knows how to adjust valves make them a bit tighter, to help with the tick. but really some ticking will not hurt. the problems occur when they are too tight and you dont hear ticking. thats when you start burning valves. another problem with valve adjustments that most shops do not realize is even if you make the clearance perfect with a feeler gauge, it will change when you tighten the lock nut up. a small change, but it does make a difference when you consider there are 16 valves. most shops do not know or are not experienced enough to compensate for this and that is how many valve adjustments get messed up.
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Crowe stage 1 spec is .006/.008 intake/exhaust COLD
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Fckin Sandro.. being a smartass.. I hate your face.. No I don't.. lol
For those actually interested in my rebuttal.... Cold is a relative term. In this case (according to the Haynes manual I have.. I think.. Not quite sure on the source from which I'm citing), cold means the head is <100F
For those actually interested in my rebuttal.... Cold is a relative term. In this case (according to the Haynes manual I have.. I think.. Not quite sure on the source from which I'm citing), cold means the head is <100F
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100F is achievable
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@Gearbox:
This is why I do all my own work ha ha I double and triple check especially with Valve lash, it's super easy when you know what your doing. I did my cam swap and timing belt in my driveway, and would not have it any other way (ok a shop would be better but the next house I buy will have one) because at least I know it was done right.
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