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Good Idea...Tada!

 
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Also FYI. Do not just drive the car after 30 secs of it being on after a cold start. This throws the CEL as well. Wait approx 2 minutes on cold starts.

 
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suscribing, good info guys keep it up....

 
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FYI: that hack doesn't really solve the 1106 error

What the injector correction factor does, is that it draws the map sensor voltage down and the output the ecu sees remains higher which causes a variation in the voltage that causes the 1106 CEL. You can easily see this by enabling the injector correction factor using 240 --> 320 CC change, hit confirm in the parameter settings. Go to real time data display, then look at the input voltage and output voltage....see the large variation? No go back and disable this.......now look at the voltage again. See now nearly identical.

That is caused by the injector correction factor in the e-manage. Without it enabled you have tune a bit more because the RSX injectors tend to make idle and vac run a bit more rich.

 
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wow guys, all I can say is, this is a great thread, I've learned alot.

Question: using the stock 320CC RSX Injecors, what is the max amount of boost they can hold? Don't they only run at about 80% duty cycle? I have both the 320CC stock ones and the 440CC RC ones but haven't installed the kit yet. Using the emanage to compensate for timing, which would be the recommended injectors?

Thanks for the help guys, its an excellent read

 
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the way i fixed the baro code was, dont use the map voltage clamp thing on the emanage, use a missing link, and moved the IAT sensor to the inlet side of the turbo, just after the filter and before the turbo, if u look at the air filter tube in my rides ull see the lil blue silicon coupler its in that

 
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On stock Fuel Pressure......8-9 PSI w/ the RSX injectors.

 
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I know I'm bringing this back from the dead, but.....
I threw this same cel and was wondering abou the post on honda tech with the formula the guy gave for changing the air map at 100 rpm and leaving the correction factor on. Has anyone gotten this to work, I mean actually being able to use the correction factor?

 
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What's your injector correction set at?

The HT thread thing is useless.

 
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Oh, yeah? I'm running 440's with it set at 440. When the code comes on it runs like crap. Even when the code isn't on, it stalls at WOT. Hmm, I figured if you balanced out the voltage b/w map and baro sensor, that would help. Why doesn't that solution work?

 
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Just didn't really work. I tried it all over the place. The major problem for me was with cold starts and not letting the car warm up atleast 5-10 mins. If I drove the car and went into boost prior to that, bam....that CEL.

It occurs more on cold starts or wot espedially if your using the voltage clamp or ML.

To see what I am talking about....trace map verus baro and you see a small to medium deviation. The ECU allows only so much.....If that is exceeded, the CEL comes on. The hack attempts to bring the 2 closer to be within that certain deviation.

The D17 reads off an alternate fuel map when cold which causes even more variation in the readings with the hack. The only way I found to do this is to narrow your injector correction factor as much as possible and use only real small portions of the hack in the air map...

 
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Bump from the dead for some history.

Schoolin cats since 2001!

 
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So what you're saying here is to keep the correction factor down (or off) and basically do more tuning to prevent the code with 440's by preventing such a large variation between map and baro voltage then, right? I didn't think the blue would have enough adjustment in it to get 440's to idle without a correction factor....

 
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The injector correction factor plays the huge role in it. The stock ECU does not like a huge variation in MAP sensor input voltage and output voltage. It thinks there is a MAP sensor fault, and throws a CEL of 1106 or something of sorts. It's been a while since I have dealt with it, but more or less it does not like that variation. The amount of variation the ECU likes, or will tolerate, if I recall is approx .07 volts or less.

One can monitor this by datalogging the MAP input and MAP output during idle and see exactly what I am speaking about.

 
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Right, I dealt with this with my 440's, I thought you were saying you found a fix for it.....

 
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There is but it' such a hack and trial and error, and still is not 100% done. It's not worth the aggrivation honestly. There are far better systems out there now like PCS, AEM and Hondata

 
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Ok, I thought you were saying in the other thread that you'd found a fix for it, I was just trying to confirm.
I agree, not worth it, exactly why I went AEM, as you know.

 
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That is the fix, massage it until it works with trial and error. I did it before, but took me hours....Still was not 100% successful. I would still get the baro error once every 2 weeks.

 
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Bump. More people need to understand this.