Sick Cycle

ohhhh he gave him a head alright ...

TheSmuggler

iTrader: (11)

Wellll it's a SECRET lol and a BIG one so yeah, my gift is just a part of the bigger scheme lol... he will tell you all when he is ready =)

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

i just scored another surprise on ebay for $90

booba5185

was it a c02 launcher to shoot the old head at dh?

ncirom2003

iTrader: (7)

oh i thought you were just changing gasket.
ok ill do a quick list of what to do and not do for you to, swap in a new head which already has the cam in it. (if it doesnt already have the cam in it, thats easy you just unbolt the rocker arm assembly and pull out the cam then put it in the new one then youll have to align it on the car).
1. remove all accessories and components on and around cylinder head.
2.loosen the tensioner (normally stick a ratchet into it and pull back to loosen it) and slide the belt off the cam gear.
3. remove valve cover and in the correct sequence loosen then take out the head bolts (this may require that you remove the rocker arm assembly and maybe the camshaft also (gear can stay on)
5.now lets say you have 2 heads and one cam, youll pull it out and just bolt it up to the new one.
6.now put the new head on, once its bolted down nicely youll put the cam gear arrow to match to were you chalked the cylinder head (the belt doesnt have to be chalked cus it doesnt matter where the belt is, as long as its on good and tight).
7. now the crank pulley should not have been moved at all!!!!!, now the cam gear should be lined right back up to wehre it was before if you did it right (not hard).
8. now timing is set correctly again, you can pull the tensioner back and replace the belt. (remember it doesnt have to be at a certain point, just get it on there.
9. now youve got that all set, replace valve cover all bolts and all parts around the head.

if this doesnt answer you exactly, tell us what the situation is. do you have 2 heads and one cam? 2 heads each with one cam in them? ok.

and make sure when the head is off you use a razor blade to scrape off all the remains of the head gasket, dont let any get in the water jackets or cylinders though.

maybe youve read different but ive done plenty of things with removing cylinder heads, wether its for head rebuild or gasket or head replacement, its all the same removal and installation. and ive got a great understanding of how everything works so trust me im not telling you how to blow something up haha. again not tryin to sound assholish but research around and study up on how valvetrain timing works and all that.

feel free to question me

ncirom2003

iTrader: (7)

gearbox:"INCOMING BITCHES!"
dhracing:"oh great another cylinder heads getting returned...........hard hats people this ones coming in fast!!!"
gearbox--> <----dhracing

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

6.now put the new head on, once its bolted down nicely youll put the cam gear arrow to match to were you chalked the cylinder head (the belt doesnt have to be chalked cus it doesnt matter where the belt is, as long as its on good and tight).

i don't understand this part. there will be no line on the new head.

also i'm not sure if the head i'm getting comes with a camshaft yet. if it does it will mean i swap the cam gear to the new head.

ncirom2003

iTrader: (7)

yea didnt realize that, you caught me cus i was rushing through it. yes youll have to put the camshaft on the new head along with the camgear still on it. so what youll have to do is this.......... get car on stands, remove tire.
1remove tire
2. remove plastic till you see crankshaft pulley
3. put a socket on the bolt on the pulley, using a breaker bar (long solid non ratcheting bar)
4. now slowly and carefully turn it clockwise with just your hands on the bar until the cam gear points to either 12'oclock or 6. (dont worry you wont loosen the bolt if you do this gently and slowly)
5. now your cam gear is going to be at exactly 12'oclock, so when you put it in the new one mount it the same way.
6. to ensure its at 12'oclock get a ruler and measure from the top of the cylinder head to the arrow on the cam, measurements should be the same on both side. make sure they are the same on both sides in the new head also.

ok lol now here ya go.

you could also do it so the arrow points straight parallel with the cylinder head (horizontal) that might be easier because i just looked at a pic of a head off an engine from our car and the measurement technique might be a lil harder. plus a degree off doesnt matter(incase you dont get it perfect) since youve got the adjustable cam gear you can adjust it.

tinman

Our engines turn counter clockwise. The cam gear has the word "UP" on it and a notch on each side. I have to peek into the manual, but on some hondas the head itself has a notch that has to line up with the notch in the cam gear with the word UP on top. On some heads, (again, read manual) the notch on the cam gear has to line up exactly with the edge of the head surface.

Geez... do I have to get the book out? I've totally rebuilt dozens of honda motors. It's not rocket science. But the engine has to be turned into the direction of normal revolution. Otherwise you'll put a little slack into the belt, and make a small error in setting the timing.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

ah now i get it lol. so set everything to tdc 12oclock first before starting work. then head and cam gear comes off and new one goes on with gear at 12oclock. cool.i am still gonna try to first mark the belt tooth that lines up with tdc and try to put the belt in the same spot on the new gear without loosening the tensioner (this worked last time when friends did it). but if that doesn't work, I can loosen the tensioner and then put belt on and I would have already set everything to tdc before starting anyway.

booba5185

yea but he has an AEM Cam gear

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

so turn the crank pulley counterclockwise like i said first until cam gear is at tdc (i guess i can look at crank pulley marks too). my aem cam gear has a little target symbol for UP and two lines on each side that i think should line up with the head.

ncirom2003

iTrader: (7)

so turn the crank till the cam lines are all lined up like tinman said. although i dont know if your aftermarket adjustable cam has these two lines on them. does it?

its not so much that your setting everything to tdc, as much as your just making it so that you will be able to visibly line up the cam gear easily in the new head rather than guess. cylinder 1 being at absolute tdc doesnt matter for what your doing.
tinman, good catch on the rotation, thought i wrote that.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

thanks everyone feeling alot better now. i just need the parts to do it. and yes aem has a cross target for top, and two side lines I believe (there was a pic in a previous post).

is there anything else i should do with the head off??

booba5185

if ur gettin the new gasket and head studs, maybe clean the tops of your piston while you in there? can really think of anything else.....or maybe (just a maybe cuz i dunno how hard it is) since you'll have the head off, retro fit a d16 IM on it?

ncirom2003

iTrader: (7)

just leave the pistons, if your gonna clean them then take them out and clean them, dont half *** it. with the head off, you can inspect for cracks and all that obvious crap, check if its warped with a really really flat surface of hard metal and a feeler gauge that goes down to thousandths of an inch.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

well i'll just clean the piston tops not taking them out unless its easy. is throttle body cleaner okay? i'm working on getting more parts like a feeler gauge and straight edge altho the block is prolly fine.

shroomster

damn surprises....they always catch you off guard...


good luck with the whole swap man, hope everything goes smoothly

Black03civic

iTrader: (1)

damn bro hope it all works out

tinman

YES.

tinman

Get new head bolts/studs. They stretch, so you should not re-use them. Your torque settings wouldn't be accurate.

cg95660

iTrader: (3)

Absolutley. You can resuse but it can and will bite you in the ***. Especially if going turbo in the future. I recommend arp. On datsun motors you have to replace every time you take the head off.


Edit: btw gearbox did you have them do the machine work and putting the car back together?? If so the might have missed a step I would definatly hit them up on that. If not get a lawyer or some thing cause all this work after(if they did the work) has to be covered be them.

ncirom2003

iTrader: (7)

taking out the pistons isnt easy, but to clean them if your going to, get a wire brush (not too coarse, and use that with some throttle body cleaner, just dry it up nice before you put it back together. you might as well do the same to the valve face's and the cylinder head.

for the straight edge test on the head, youll need to find the minimum allowance on that. and what youll do is check it the long way from corner 1 to corner 2 then from corner 3 to corner 4. next youll do a x pattern on it going from 1 to 4 and 2 to 3.

oh and when you take the head off, some valves will probably be open, dont freak out thats ok.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

i will thanks. some friends installed the old head and i watched the whole time. they did better than any shop would have.

ncirom2003

iTrader: (7)

well if they just pulled the belt off instead of releasing the tensioner than i dont know how much better they did it than any shop.
not trying to be a **** but its just alot easier to release the tension than to fvck with the belt like that.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

ya lol i'm gonna release tension. didn't seem hard except i need a cotter pin. but everything else was done right. and if i release tension, i gotta remember to turn the crank twice and make sure everything lines up.

TheSmuggler

iTrader: (11)

TDC, remember it or die lol

Da1lyDr1ver

iTrader: (6)

hey Gearbox, are you saying that Garage Kwai doesnt know what they're doing?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

nah garage kwai is fine and i'll prolly go get my turbo installed and tuned there. its the stupid shop here thats supposedly one of the best. well i paid them $80 to figure out nothing. then i thought to tighten the head bolts and no more rough idle (altho coolant is still getting burned). and then there is dh racing but everyone knows how much they suck already.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

hey you guys should i ebay my dh head?