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If you want to improve ride quality don't get hayame. You can go fast on railroad with hayame but you will feel every crack (like the car is falling apart) because hayame is quite stiff. WHat springs do you have now?

If you want something smooth you should try out tein SS($1050)/D2($850) since both of them let you adjust damper.

If you don't have the money you can get a replacement shocks like koni(500 but you also need to cut off your front strut(not good IMO) or tokico HP (400 full replacment but I will wait for the Illumina because it lets you adjust the damper)

 
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Oh yea check this link here too

http://www.2k1civic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=159014

 
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see, I thought I was getting the "best bang for the buck hayame." I didnt know that I was going to get a "you get what you pay for hayame." I should have waited longer to get the D2. But they are back-ordered and cant stand the sotck ride. ahhh regrets...

 
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Most complaints are due to installation.
When I first got them, i really had no complaints. Any problems I encounter was easily fixed. Thing is most people just dont know how to install/adjust these things properly. They have alignment issues and they're blaming it on the coilovers. They're getting noises and they're saying its the coilovers when its really something with installation. If you have any questions, maybe you can ask me and i can clear them up for you guys

 
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I agree wholeheartedly. When you install a new suspension, you WILL throw your alignment off. Get it fixed and you will be straight again.
When you get noises, some noises are typical of having a stiffer suspension but often clanking or grinding noises come from improper or incomplete installation.

 
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Now, since no one else has the same complaints on my issue, it should be the installation.

 
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my right rear is making some noises every now and then. it was installation tho i believe

 
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squeeking? if so its the dust boot rubbing against the spring

 
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yea partly squeeking, how do you stop the dust boot from rubbing? there is also a sound every now and then that sounds like the shock is bottoming out. what would that be?

 
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you can either take it out, cut part of it or grease that part of it.
or if lazy just go crazy with some wd40
it should be plasticy and not rubbery so it should be fine. just try avoid getting it on anything else...
maybe the shock is bottoming out? did you adjust the height with the 3rd(bottom) locknut or did you use the perch(1st and 2nd locnknut).

 
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Thanks for helping. I am still getting clicking sound from my front driver side. I tried taking off pre-load, adding pre-load, tighten 3rd nut, grease and I really dont know what else to try. The only time I have no clicking is when I have no pre-load at all (loosen springs). I also tried turning the spring to face diff direction but no luck....

My second problem is same as slam, can't low the rear more than 1.5" or else lose pre-load.

I still have v1 though, I don't see v2 is any better. If I try out v2 and it does the same thing I will lose money on shipping back v1 and another alignment. If possible I really like a refund but I doubt they will let me.

 
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clicking when you turn the wheel right. Its the 3rd locknut. Jack the car up, turn the wheel with your hand and you'll hear the noise. It has to be really² tight. I've had people say that it was tight but they went back 2-3 times before they got it right(use a hammer or a breaker bar if you have to). The problem is if you have too much preload it puts extra stress on the 3rd locknut and it loosens it up. When i had the hayames, i put very little preload on the springs. Even some people with JICs have this problem.

The rear, it almost seems like its just differences in people's judgement. In the rear i had about a 2" drop. It was lower than my sports and about the same height as my race. Some people with low pro tires might think that the drop isnt 2" when it actually is. a 2" drop will still leave you some gap depending on the tire size. People say its a defect but i just think of it as thats how the coilovers were designed. There's always a recommended setting and there's always the range. to me the 4" they were talking about is simply the range and not the recommended. You can drop to 4" if you wanted to but that would mean you'd have to take off the preload. Atleast this is an option you have. Teins only go 2", D2s only go a little lower than 2", no one ever complained about them.

 
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Funny, I have no noises at all (besides the occasional "woohoo" and "yippeee"). I guess I've really been used to my craptastic ride on blown rear stock shocks with H&R springs. Again people, don't expect miracles with Hayames, just know that when you spend $650US on a set of coilovers, there's something they took out so they wouldn't cost $1100. I wouldn't expect them to make me some sort of togue battle champ, but I love the ride they give me on the street and highway, with some spurts of "spirited" driving.
That said, from my last hour and a half of driving after my alignment, I'll so far have to give these an enthusiastic thumbs up. Let's give it a couple more days to see if I take one (or both) thumbs down or chop off someone else's thumb to add to my own.

 
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i adjusted the height with the 3rd locknut. the first and second are tight just enough so i cant move the spring with my hand. that squeeking is gone now, but the other sound is still there.

 
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Hey i was wondering is Hayames good for autocrossing? Can they take corner on high speed like nothing like 100 on 50,70 on sharp turn? I current have GC coil-over and i'm thinking of getting koni but for the price $500+. i rather spend extra on true coilover like hayames for the price.

 
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Yea hayame is pretty stiff. I can take corners 20mph+ extra easily. I think I can go faster if i want.

 
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took a pretty sharp turn at 90 mph and i was fine. they are pretty good in the handling department.

 
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Nice... I want one. I not worry about the installation problem , but how low can you go on the rear? I don't get what you guys mean preload and you have to compress the spring to make it lower for the rear?

 
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The rear can tuck into the fender well....please take a look at MADWHEEL's car...he is sponsored by us. He just installed them last weekend.

http://www.7thgencivic.com/memberrid...cat/500/page/1

We have 1 set left for sale.

 
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Ahhh....heard my first click this morning....well, now I have something to do tonight - time to jack up my baby and check that passenger side front wheel. It's probably the 3rd locknut, as it wasn't there yesterday - might have started coming loose, what with the preload I have up front and the crazy driving I've been enjoying lately. And those speedbumps at the grocery store probably didn't help either, LOL. It's funny, I really cranked those suckers when I installed too. I may as well go round all 4 corners. Gotta add this to my review.

 
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Clicky:
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=144970

 
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You probaby have too much pre-load up front (VNlilMAN said just add little bit to release the stress on third nut) I tighten that bit*h so hard but I still get it. You should use a hammer once you have your desire height set.

 
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Will do. Will post results after tonight.

 
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Looks like there is no pre-load at all and the springs are not even secured on the top strut. Is that safe to drive on the road? Put the question of "can it be done?" on the side. Lets focus on the safety of our cars when its tucked when that method is used.

 
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^yea that

 
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I dont think it is safe to drive. When the springs are not secure mean the springs are not working like they are suppose to and you will have that bottom out feel when you go over bump. Having pre-load basically mean the spring can't move up or down (not loosen).

 
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Well like i said, its not that big of a deal. thats how ALL conventional coilovers are. thats even how the tein ss are.. Especially ground controls on stock shocks. I remember when i had ground controls I had like a 2" gap between the top of my springs and the top mount.
It really isnt a big deal...

 
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Im not surprised that you said that VNlilMAN. Because the alignment shop told me its okay to have the springs not locked on top strut. I tried to argue with him and he told me that he does installation JIC/TEIN and all other coilover system with his eyes closed so he knows what he's talking about.

But Im still not comfortable becasue you will hear clunk when you hit the bump. Something just isnt right when the springs doesnt sit very well.

 
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Well thats why the hayames were designed so that you wouldnt have to adjust it like that BUT only to a certain limit. And that limit is like 3" up front and 2" rear. IF you want to go lower than that point than you have no choice but to go that route.

If he installs JICs like that.. he needs to learn how to adjust them correctly...

 
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I adjusted the Hayames myself in which I have had no problems but the wiggle. And the wiggle is normal.

Im going in for alignment in an hour