Rep Power: 0

02 EX Coupe. Sitting for 7 years.

Got key programmed, new battery in. Turning the key to on position. Green key "immobilizer" icon flashes once or twice but goes off (like it's supposed to right?) Windows, sunroof, dash lights operate.

No start (no starter relay click, just silent), AC/heater blower does not turn on, radio does not turn on. No sound from fuel pump.

Shouldn't at least the blower and radio come on? I'm so confused. Starter and fuel pump could be seized, but those two?

Ideas where to start?

 
Rep Power: 221

Look for corroded connections, fuse sockets

 
Rep Power: 0

any specific connections, locations, or fuses I should be looking at for this specific issue? the no-start is odd (maybe the starter solenoid is toast since it doesn't click) but the no climate control and no radio thing is just odd for all three to be happening at once.

I'm guessing that it's not immobilizer related. even if the immobilizer is not allowing the car to start I would imagine the climate control and radio still come on in the ON position. Can anyone verify for me exactly what is and what isn't supposed to work in the ON position regardless of the immobilizer status?

I think that would help. Right now I'm FAIRLY sure the key is turning off the immobilizer, but since I've never had a running/working 7th gen Civic I have no idea what it's supposed to, or not supposed to when it's working as intended.

Thanks.

 
Rep Power: 0

Bought an 02 EX as a project car. Had a locksmith come and program the key since the owner had lost the original. His little computer said it worked. The key turns the ignition cylinder but no crank. This is not surprising as the car has been sitting for quite a few years. The starter solenoid might be completely gone and that would explain no start and not even a starter click.

The thing I don't know, however, is what IS and what ISN'T supposed to work with the key simply in the ON position. Currently in the ON position I get windows, locks, dash lights, moon roof. What I DON'T get is climate controls or radio, they are just dead.

So I can only ASSUME the chip key is disabling the immobilizer. The green key light flashes once (maybe twice) when I turn the key but then goes off. Is that what it's SUPPOSED to do? That's the problem, I don't have any comparison as to what is supposed to happen on a fully functioning car for reference.

If you have a functioning chip key inserted in the ignition and turned to ON, what works and what doesn't? Also, if you have a non-functioning chip key (let's say a standard mechanical key with no chip) and turn the ignition to START what happens? Does the starter spin but the engine doesn't start, or does it do absolutely nothing?

I would like as much information on this as possible please. It will help a lot with me diagnosing what is going on. Thanks.

 
Rep Power: 221

It's probably going to be one of the major fuses considering what's not working. Look at the fuse diagrams in the owners manual, they list what that fuse supplies power to.
why would you buy a non running car you are unfamiliar with? Especially one thats been sitting for 7 years

 
Rep Power: 0

I tried using a multimeter set to OHMs (resistance) to test all of the fuses and they came back good. of course I'm not sure if that works with the major (large) fuses. I'm much better at solving mechanical issues than electrical ones.

got it because any other project car in this area is over $2000, even non-running. this was $500. I'm fine with putting in lots of work to get it going, just a bit frustrated that I can't get it to spin over so I can start diagnosing the actual mechanical problems.

there's no rush on this car. it will likely either be a track car or a rat rod. my concern was it being cheap. old cars can be revived after sitting for ages, it's just a matter of getting it sorted. so step one for me is electrical and the current issues are starter isn't spinning, blower doesn't come on, radio doesn't come on (last two aren't important, but I figured they may be relevant to what's going on with the no-start situation.)

With a working chip key is the radio and climate control/blower supposed to work in the ON position? What about a non-chip key, would they still function in the ON position? I don't have a running 7th gen to compare to, and that's part of the initial problem I'm facing is I don't have a baseline for comparison.

 
Rep Power: 366

if immobilizer is actuating, the green key should stay lit.
it stops the fuel pump

 
Rep Power: 0

so if it goes off the key is working, correct?

if it were to stay lit that would mean that the immobilizer is active (preventing the car from starting)?

just want to make sure I'm understanding correctly. thanks again.

 
Rep Power: 366

pull the fuses out to check them...

 
Rep Power: 0

I will remove each and every one, despite them testing okay on a multimeter continuity check.

what about those big fuses, like for the battery or the ignition switch. any idea of the best way to test those? (photo attached) I'm guessing pull them and do a continuity check.

 
Rep Power: 366

yes, sir

 
Rep Power: 0

gotcha.

so I'm going to chalk up the starter, blower motor, radio, and lack of fuel pump sound to various other electrical issues (fuses, broken wiring, etc...) and not the immobilizer.

that's what I was just trying to make sure. I don't want to be tracking down electrical gremlins if the entire time the problem is the stupid immobilizer.

 
Rep Power: 223

I would recommend you check fuses. Number 20 (40A) in the under-hood box has some involvement in all of those systems.

 
Rep Power: 0

#20, from what I can tell (checking visibly) seems to be intact. any other ideas?

 
Rep Power: 221

Check with a meter.
check the contacts in the fuse box. Check for chewed wires