Rep Power: 0

I have read through the very detailed articles already on the forum. I just wanted to see if any previous repairs could create this 'non-start' situation-

History- i just got my cat converter and cam shaft sensor replaced last month. Had to drive the car about 900 miles from place of repair back to my home town. Had an O2 sensor light come on and it went away on its own during this trip. No problems otherwise...

Present day- Had to fill up gas last night. As I went to crank up the engine to leave, the car would not start. Got the car jumped and got the battery and alternator readings from O'Rielly's and they said that the battery is fine and so is the alternator. They did however find that the negative terminal clamp was loose and came off easily. I got the car jumped again and drove the car around another 25 miles or so. When I tried to start the car again immediately, it didn't start. The cluster lights come on, the radio can be turned ON, the dome lights come ON, the front lights come ON as well.

I wanted to ask if there was a way I could check if the crank shaft sensor was installed correctly and if it could have caused something else to be loose, before I try to go through these links-
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...eshooting.html

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ont-start.html

Thanks!

 
Rep Power: 518

Does the engine not start because the starter does not operate? (No crank)

 
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Sorry, I am not sure. When I try to turn the key from "0" position to "3" position, nothing happens.

This is very sudden as I didn't really get any indication. The dome light and the dash board lights up properly. Today 24 hours after posting my question, I can't seem to be able to unlock / lock the car using the remote.

 
Rep Power: 228

If the battery is good then when you hit position 3 you should hear either a rapid clicking sound, or, the starter sound (ermmm,ermm,ermm,ermm).

-If you hear the clicking sound, then there is a poor connection to the battery.
-If you hear the starter, then there is a fuel or ignition problem.
-if you hear nothing, then as ezone said, the starter is dead and needs to be replaced.

 
Rep Power: 518

This could also indicate a starter problem.....but actual testing should be done before wasting money replacing parts needlessly.


If it starts normally and consistently while connected to jumper cables and another car battery, the starter worked.
Focus on your battery and cables/terminal clamps/connections.

 
Rep Power: 0

Okay. Thanks! I will start by taking the battery out and cleaning out the terminals. Will keep you posted. Thanks again!

 
Rep Power: 518

battery is completely dead?

 
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There were no signs of dead battery or weak battery. Filled up gas, tried to start the car and Nothing!

 
Rep Power: 518

Au contraire. To wit:

Sounds like the FIRST thing I'd be checking is the battery.

They didn't load test the battery.
I kinda bet there's only about 10 people left under the age of 50 who actually know how to do such a test AND has the necessary equipment to do so.

The hand-held battery gizmotron most parts stores and shops use now only checks one of about 17 different ways a basic car battery can fail. It's main purpose as a sales tool is usually great, but that does not make it a 100% reliable battery tester.

 
Rep Power: 224

I recently troubleshot my sister-in-law's Toyota Yaris with a no start no crank issue. When you tried to crank it you'd hear a clicking noise. I immediately thought the battery was low so I checked the voltage but it read ~12V. After checking some other items and getting no where we decided to check battery voltage while trying to start and read ~4V. Replaced the battery and all was fine. The battery appeared to be ok until a load was placed on it.