Rep Power: 367

Just additional datapoint, but I drove from Quebec to TN, 1200 miles, after months that I diagnosed the gasket, and it was still not overheating. You going to be safe

 
Rep Power: 518

As long as the radiator is kept full.

 
Rep Power: 128

So, for the rest of us who tend to panic at any sign of oil in the coolant, or the mere mention of a headgasket, and quickly hide our head in a bucket of oily rags... at what point does it become imperative to pull the head and do the job?

 
Rep Power: 128

@ezone: Is the current OEM headgasket, or gasket set, significantly different from the factory original?

 
Rep Power: 518

99% only seep from the combustion chamber into the cooling system. Fluids don't mix and you don't lose compression.........Maybe AFTER it's been allowed to overheat bad enough to warp the head and become a disaster, but not initially.

Come to think of it, I haven't even seen one flame cut the gasket, head, or block so far. Lucky, I guess?

The Honda part number suggests there have been revisions.

 
Rep Power: 128

In the past I noticed that Honda changed a p/n when the part came from a different supplier, but did not necessarily signal a material change or improvement. Is there a higher quality aftermarket part??

 
Rep Power: 518

The leak typically begins as a teensy little breach in the fire ring. Not the oil passages.



Different engine is different.

This isn't your other motor, the rules everyone is used to don't always have to apply.



Any change is a change. Supplier or improvement are still changes. I have no way of knowing what the changes were, all I see is the part number has apparently changed since introduction.
I don't know.....I use factory with no problems that I'm aware of.

Apparently for Scout1 it isn't Felpro.

 
Rep Power: 367

the first time it overheats is the cut line. better do it before it does, and when it does, quick action (stop, park and let it cool.)

 
Rep Power: 128

Agreed. If the same rules always applied, then buying used cars would not be nearly as entertaining -

 
Rep Power: 518

All cars have 4 wheels, therefore they are all the same.


Everyone with a shoebox full of tools has the exact same abilities and talents.
If I speak louder and slower you will understand better.

Wait, that's all management thinking.





If the images don't show up here, click this link:
https://medium.com/swlh/the-zombie-m...71d#.7jvb2p6pu


Looks like they didn't show up here.. Damn. Click the link.

 
Rep Power: 128

Good article. Maybe my next impulse purchase should be an S2000

 
Rep Power: 210

Good ole Honda Sievics.. always leaking from somewhere..lol

 
Rep Power: 518

At least you seem to understand a used car can have issues and problems just like any other car.

Too many people expect every used car (hell, every car) to be absolutely perfect and never ever wear out or break.....and nobody would ever knowingly sell a used car that has a major problem.

At work we have a saying: The used car window sticker says "AS IS", not "as if".

 
Rep Power: 128

To be honest, I would rather buy a car with known issues to be addressed, than one where you never know if something had been fixed right, or at all. However, I do feel for those who have to depend on a 12-year-old car for a daily driver. Been there, done that. My expectation is to spend around $1K on parts and/or repairs I am not up for personally in the first year, and I am about on budget.

 
Rep Power: 210

My car turn out to be a costly wench..but, i still love 'er.

 
Rep Power: 367

Amen to y'all
(Darn, multiquote missed PMI post...)

So, the lingering question from scout1 seem to be the tty bolts?

 
Rep Power: 518

I've never found any but I didn't go further than the Honda parts catalog, It's entirely possible some other manufacturer uses a similar size but I have not pursued that avenue.

I believe Kinakoes contacted ARP and did some other searching without success, before he left the forum.

 
Rep Power: 176

Wow 4 pages. Didn't mean to take up everybody's time but discussion is good. I have started to plan my course of action and have checked at the dealer for the OEM gaskets and can have them in a day. Price of the OEM head gasket is $44.70 but will get it anyway. I just want to do this right and make it last this time. I did everything I could to do it by the book last time. Had the head professionally redone. I checked and cleaned the surface of the block and found no issues. Used a Felpro gasket set which I thought was good but will not use this time. Cleaned the head bolts and holes. Put oil on threads and torqued according to torque spec and pattern from the manual. I did not put any kind of sealer on the gasket and as far as I know I put the gasket on right side up. I can't remember but I think it was marked this side up but will double check that when I take it apart. The only thing is I have a cheap torque wrench. That is the only thing I think may be the problem. This time I will borrow a better one and compare it to mine and see if mine is off. Thanks again and I will report back when I tear into this job.

Ed

 
Rep Power: 128

So do I, it is one of the new-ish Sears wrenches that nobody seems to like. However, I did an informal comparison with an older and more expensive SK Tools wrench, and it was right on, except at the very low end of the scale, and even there it was still within spec.

 
Rep Power: 176

Okay guys Christmas is over and back to my son's car. I retested each cylinder by bringing it up to TDC and putting compressed air into the spark plug hole. I then watched the water at the radiator neck. I never saw air bubbles but on two cylinders the water very slowly rose and over flowed. This does confirm a bad head gasket correct? I have it just about tore down just paranoid that it is something else. In earlier discussions the water passage gasket also has exhaust passages in it. Are these passages in any way connected to the cylinders? I have the new oem gaskets and should have the head off in the morning so I guess I just over think things. I just hope the head and block check flat.

 
Rep Power: 518

Confirmed leakage. We're done here.




No, not during your above test.
Have the head checked.
I personally haven't ever seen a block warped.

 
Rep Power: 176

Thanks Ezone, I just doubt myself sometimes. Heading out there in a few minutes. Talked to a head shop and he says he will try and help me get it back quickly but he is closed for New Years and that could cause me issues.

 
Rep Power: 518

Make sure the machined finish is glass smooth when you get it back. It must not be rough.

 
Rep Power: 176

Got it pulled and dropped off at the shop. He gave it a quick check and said it wasn't warped.He will give it a short cut to make sure it is good. Should have it back thursday. I have a new oem gasket. It is not marked "up". They said put the side that has the part number on it up. Do you agree? I told them my story about it lasting only two years. They recommended getting new head bolts. Money is tight but if everybody thinks that is the way to go I guess I will do it. Everything looked good so far. Getting better at doing this. Got it apart and to the shop in one day. Pretty good for me.

 
Rep Power: 518

Look at ALL the holes...The gasket only fits correctly one way. It should be obvious right away.


I reuse those head bolts, no need to replace.

 
Rep Power: 210

I had a tough time at first too. If your's looks like this one: http://www.mizumoauto.com/ebay/mizumo/HS4038_image2.jpg

The metal tab that has the gasket part number stamped on it.. the stamped side faces up, is at the rear of engine and mates to the cylinder head. Plus as Ezone said it only fits one way: the gasket's two end pieces that flare out are postioned at the front (crankshaft pulley) side of the engine. The silver rings mate with the top of the engine block/coolant jacket.

This guy has good tips for any head gasket install:

 
Rep Power: 176

Happy New Year everybody. Car had to wait a while but I got it all back together. It started right up a so far so good... as far as the head gasket goes. Thanks for all the help on that. I will have to run it a while to make sure that it is fixed. I will report back when I know. Unfortunately I picked up a CEL code 1753 and flashing "D" light. I am going to start a new thread on that. Thanks again.

Ed

 
Rep Power: 0

You're not alone there Scout1, my 03 honda civic has got a blown head and what a headache its been. Thanks for posting this, a lot to learn from this post.

 
Rep Power: 176

Just a final report on this. So far so good. I think I am good. Let it run a few days topping of with anti-freeze to get the air out of the system. Radiator is maintaining the water level and expansion tank is not over flowing. I still hate the way they snaked the expansion tank under the battery. It is very hard to see where the level is. I look at night with a flashlight or a plastic tie strap stuck down the fill hole. Got my fingers crossed but looking good. Thanks for all the discussion and help.

Ed

 
Rep Power: 518

Many of the newer cars aren't much better. LOL

Good luck.