Clutch won't disengage
11-10-2015
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Clutch won't disengage
I'm having trouble looking for the issue. Car won't go into gear and the clutch stays engaged. I tried bleeding the clutch and now the clutch pedal is free to play with. It won't pump. No leaks I can see on my master or slave cylinder. I'm about to buy a new clutch and see if that fixes it. Any advice guys?
11-10-2015
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Re: Clutch won't disengage
Might read a little on this thread: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...need-help.html
I tried bleeding the clutch and had to buy a vacuum bleeder to get the air out and the pedal back....
I tried bleeding the clutch and had to buy a vacuum bleeder to get the air out and the pedal back....
11-10-2015
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Re: Clutch won't disengage
I'm having trouble looking for the issue. Car won't go into gear and the clutch stays engaged. I tried bleeding the clutch and now the clutch pedal is free to play with. It won't pump. No leaks I can see on my master or slave cylinder. I'm about to buy a new clutch and see if that fixes it. Any advice guys?
11-11-2015
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I didn't check with Honda page. Uh, people say it could be cylinders so I'm going to buy a slave today and see what's up. But maybe it could be that I need to vacuum it. But when I bled it, it shot out fluid, then bubbles. When I pump the clutch, it just oozes out instead of shooting out. No pressure builds up after I bled it the first time
11-13-2015
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Alright, I took the slave off and the rod that the slave pushes is loose. Is that normal, or it can it be the release bearing that broke?
11-15-2015
#9
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Re: Clutch won't disengage
From another thread here:
Got 2 ideas here.....
One idea is to stick your bottle of brake fluid upside down in the top of the reservoir, that way it will keep the little sucker full for a long while as you bleed. (assuming it will fit)
Another idea to purge trapped air bubbles is to open the bleeder screw then hold your finger on it firmly so it acts like a check valve (lets fluid out but won't let air in),
Then have the helper pump the pedal several times in a row until the air is out, then you can close bleeder screw and do a couple more pumps and bleeds the normal way just to make sure it's all done.. Hopefully you would have decent pedal again by now.
Then you should be able to watch the slave pushrod and throwout arm move when the pedal is pumped.
Got 2 ideas here.....
One idea is to stick your bottle of brake fluid upside down in the top of the reservoir, that way it will keep the little sucker full for a long while as you bleed. (assuming it will fit)
Another idea to purge trapped air bubbles is to open the bleeder screw then hold your finger on it firmly so it acts like a check valve (lets fluid out but won't let air in),
Then have the helper pump the pedal several times in a row until the air is out, then you can close bleeder screw and do a couple more pumps and bleeds the normal way just to make sure it's all done.. Hopefully you would have decent pedal again by now.
Then you should be able to watch the slave pushrod and throwout arm move when the pedal is pumped.
11-15-2015
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Did you say you replaced the master too? Or just the slave? If you replaced the master, you'll need to "prime" it first. Remove the hydraulic line from the MC, then slowly pour fluid into the reservoir, until fluid comes out of the master cylinder. Reattach the hard line to the master. This gets rid of a massive air bubble. That's half the battle.
11-15-2015
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I had a similar experience last summer. I replaced both the slave & master and couldn't get pressure to the pedal with 2 person traditional bleeding. I've used that method many times on Hondas since 1988.
Early in this thread I provided you link to how I resolved it. I bought a $30 vacuum bleeder from Harbor Freight and it was solved in 30 seconds.
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