Youngrob650

First off my car is a 2000 Honda Civic ex DOHC 1.6 with 205,xxx miles and I've recently had this problem starting my engine after I turned it off and quickly came back to (got lunch). The car usually starts after a 30 minute break.

One of my buddies dad told me a fuse might be overheating when I run the car to its stable temp..

The engine cranks up sluggishly but run fines after its started. I replaced the spark plug wires about 2 years ago. Any ideas on what could be a factor?
Also, my DLC cable to pull codes does not work. My CEL is on but I have no ways to pull codes.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated

ezone

Do you want to figure out the issue for sure, or do you want to try throwing a part or two at it?


Elaborate.
What does it do or not do?

Youngrob650

I wouldn't mind throwing some new parts in there if it isn't too expensive. I did some research on it. Could the fuse I'm talking about be the PGM FI fuse?

The DLC connector has a pin jammed in there so I will need to get it replaced. I took it petboys for a free scan but couldn't establish a link to the computer.

ezone

Let me check my crystal ball here....




I see an ECT sensor. The coolant temp sensor for the computer.
2 wire sensor near or under the distributor.

Or a main relay, or an ignition switch..... but my nickel bet is on the ECT sensor.


You really need to get codes before blindly firing the parts cannon at the symptom, because actually figuring out what the computer already knows will probably save a bunch of time and loot.


Handy pic of a parts cannon for reference:



Oh hell, may as well throw this one in too:




LOL
You mean from this line?
I'm just gonna forget I even read this.


You mean like someones code reader broke a pin off in your connector?
OMFG LOL
Well, at least it should be an easy fix to splice another plug in from a salvage yard car.

Youngrob650

Lol nice picture refs. Thank you for the advice. I'm going to look more into those parts and I figure the best way to do this would to get a new DLC to get my codes.

Dave Brabant

im assuming youve checked for rusted out starter connections and battery connections ? these can cause intermitent starting issues and the slugish turnover of the engine leads me to believe it is a corroded wire or overheating wire.

ezone

I guess I too should ask, does this line mean it cranks just fine but will not start and run on its own?

Is the electric starter is having trouble, or is it cranking the engine ok?

Youngrob650

It feels like an electrical problem. The engine fires up and runs just fine but I have to wait roughly 30 minutes before I turn on the engine again after running. Maybe a bad start motor?

Youngrob650

One of my co workers who fixes his old school Volvo said the same thing. The connection to the starter motor. I'm not too knowledgable on cars that's why I came here and made an account! I will check these for sure.

ezone

SMH.

Can you post a video of whatever happens when you try to start it during this 30 minute period?

Youngrob650

i would but I'm not too sure on how to upload a video on here.

Youngrob650

heres the video i uploaded it on my youtube account.

ezone

Ok that's a whole lot different than what I had in my head when I read the other posts.

Looks like extremely slow cranking speed....and it looks like the dash lights went dim or dark during cranking.

Electrical.
Battery weak, starter drawing too many amps, or poor connections that don't allow enough current flow to operate the starter.

Further testing required.

I'd get it to act up then
probably do a load test on the battery,

And an amp check on the starter,
If it's real high it's probably a starter bad,,,,
but if it's real low then I'd do voltage drop testing to look for a poor connection or high resistance.

Youngrob650

Battery tested fine with my multimeter. Gas tank half full, having the problem right now but this time the car has sat for a hour and half. No start hard crAnk then clickssssss if I hold it for too long

ezone

Not good enough.

Need to do a real load test on the battery.
Load test using half of the cold cranking amps rating on the label and see if it will deliver that many amps for 15 seconds without going below 9.6v.


Then move on to testing the starter.
How many amps is it drawing during cranking?
Is there any voltage drop in either battery cable to the block or engine? Voltage drops will reduce available battery power to the starter.

Youngrob650

Quick update, I was just getting to the amps of the battery. I had a co worker help me jump start my car. It started up like a champ. So I've come to conclusion that my battery is drained of amps

Youngrob650

Thanks for all the advice guys! I'll post again if I still have issues after a new battery

EdGasket

Dry solder joint on a relay; opens up when hot. Check fuel pump relay. I had the exact same problem on a 1.6 engine which wouldn't start when hot or after stalling until about 20 mins later.