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Door lock and radio light problem.

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Old Apr 14, 2013
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Door lock and radio light problem.

2001 Honda Civic LX
No remote entry from the factory. Confirmed by there not being a control unit to the left of the radio.
The passenger rear door lock does not work. The actuator works when powered directly to a battery in both polar positions but it does not work in the car when the door lock switch is pressed down or when the door lock button is pressed down or when the key is turned on the outer door lock to lock the doors.
There is also a problem with the radio lights turning off randomly while the radio still works properly.
What is wrong with my car?

Thank you.
Nathan

Last edited by Biscuit; Apr 14, 2013 at 06:04 AM.
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Old Apr 14, 2013
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Re: Door lock and radio light problem.

i had the same problem with one of my rear door locks, my problem turned out to be 2 broken wires, the wires that go to the door actuator were broken inside the rubber boot, the wires run through this rubber boot between the door and the body of the car, i guess opening and closing the door for all those years bends the wires and they become fragile and literally broke in two, i just spliced them back together and all was good, pull that rubber boot off and inspect the wires
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Old Apr 14, 2013
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Re: Door lock and radio light problem.

I might disconnect the harness in the door jamb and power the actuator to see if it still works from that point. (No, I'd really peel the boot back and tug on each wire to see if any are broken.)


If it is the door jamb wiring, you can get a door harness dirt cheap. So cheap I won't even consider trying to repair one again.

Like $15 at Majestic


#13 is the left rear
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...5=WIRE+HARNESS
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Old Apr 14, 2013
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Re: Door lock and radio light problem.

Originally Posted by ezone
I might disconnect the harness in the door jamb and power the actuator to see if it still works from that point. (No, I'd really peel the boot back and tug on each wire to see if any are broken.)


If it is the door jamb wiring, you can get a door harness dirt cheap. So cheap I won't even consider trying to repair one again.

Like $15 at Majestic


#13 is the left rear
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...5=WIRE+HARNESS


the wires in my car were wrapped very tight with electrical tape from end to end, so pulling on the wires would not help, even if the wires were broken the tape would still hold them together, all the tape needed to be removed which meant peeling back the rubber boot anyway
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Old May 24, 2013
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Re: Door lock and radio light problem.

Follow-up.
The yellow positive wire to the door lock actuator was worn apart/broken.
There is a wire harness that has a terminal inside the b-pillar that leads into the rear door with two other terminals. The wire broke inside the rubber boot between the door and b-pillar about two inches from the terminal inside the b-pillar.

I still do not know why the radio lights cut out but I have learned there is a jumper that can be installed on the fuse box to initiate diagnostic codes for the multiplexer. I plan to make that jumper tool and get some diagnostic codes to hopefully learn what is wrong with the multiplexer.
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Old May 24, 2013
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Re: Door lock and radio light problem.

^^^ I would not risk the jumper test, multiplex not really involved in illumination.

Are all the radio lights dropping out ?? do the other dimmable bulbs continue to work? (hvac and 3 button)
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Old May 24, 2013
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Re: Door lock and radio light problem.

Originally Posted by Biscuit
Follow-up.
The yellow positive wire to the door lock actuator was worn apart/broken.
There is a wire harness that has a terminal inside the b-pillar that leads into the rear door with two other terminals. The wire broke inside the rubber boot between the door and b-pillar about two inches from the terminal inside the b-pillar.
this seems to be a common problem.....

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...ck-issues.html
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Old May 25, 2013
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Re: Door lock and radio light problem.

Originally Posted by CraigW
^^^ I would not risk the jumper test, multiplex not really involved in illumination.

Are all the radio lights dropping out ?? do the other dimmable bulbs continue to work? (hvac and 3 button)
All of those lights will randomly go out with no determinal frequency.
Why is there a risk with doing the jumper test?

Nathan
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Old May 25, 2013
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Re: Door lock and radio light problem.

Originally Posted by Biscuit
All of those lights will randomly go out with no determinal frequency.
Why is there a risk with doing the jumper test?

Nathan
No real risk, just pointless. You are simply barking up the wrong tree. Wasted time and effort/no results.
Step #1 is to understand the circuits involved (ALL of them), and MICU is not part of dash light illumination.
This can be seen and "read" in the wiring diagrams.


Do the park lights also quit at the same time as your dash lights? If they do, then ignore the stuff below. Start chasing the park light problem, not the dash lights.

---------------------------------

If not a park light issue:

I would get wiring diagrams and a test light.

Pick any affected light, pop out the easiest one to access.

Either the positive side or the negative side drops out (goes away) when the lights go out, so I only need to figure out which one that would be.

Determine which side is dropping out by connecting a test light on one side of the circuit at a time, drive and wait for it to act up.

Once I figure out which side is dropping, I read the wiring diagrams and chase "up" the tree toward the source of that particular circuit.
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Old May 25, 2013
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Re: Door lock and radio light problem.

^^^Yes, the dimmable lights are off the taillights circuit.... and the dimming is controlled through cluster.
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Old May 27, 2013
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Re: Door lock and radio light problem.

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