Rep Power: 0

Just ADDED photos, Thanks and yes frustrating to see this issue...

So i have posted and gotten answers to a problem i thought was originally in the CV joints... Was not and turned out to be a Front lower motor mount allowing the engine/Auto trans to 'clank' when going into gear...


Figured I'd just replace the mount and be done with this.

Tonight after work, I raised the hood to look at the mount and that's when the story took a turn, it clearly appears the TOP actual tapping for the lower front mount bolt is cracked with the bolt appearing to be snug against the mounting base plate of the motor mount but i imagine the crack allows the motor trans to 'jump/clank' when being engaged into gear...


That is the REAL problem i have as the mount actually looks new, guessing here that the previous owner probably changed the mount and cracked the engine / trans? casting or it wa slaready cracked and they just found me to buy it, and then conveniently forgot that at sale time... Nice, Thanks dude...

NOW what to do?

car is clean running with 67K and excellent other than the mount clank in/out of gear...

1.) Is that casting area part of the actual Block or is it part of the Trans housing ? (can it be replaced reasonably?)

2.) Dare i ask is there any possible fix besides having a larger whole new casting piece or Worse needing to be installed? (can that area just be welded as it is quite easily reached from the top and the other 2 mount bolts look secure and those casting areas not compromised...

Thanks i know this may not be an easy one but I am just trying to avoid spending needlessly...

MECCA60

 
Rep Power: 191

1. I do believe that is the engine block itself.

2. Might be able to clean around the crack with a good (non-oil based) solvent, drill the end of the crack to keep it from spreading any further, then pack some JB Weld into the cracked section, let it harden, then drive a tap or thread chaser through it to get the threads right.

If anyone can come up with a simpler fix that is less involved, I'm all ears, lol.

 
Rep Power: 313

OUCH... Can't give much advice without pictures on this one but that really sucks

 
Rep Power: 200

I would take the whole car to a GOOD welder. I don't know if the blocks are aluminum, magnesium, or some alloy of one or the other, but not just anyone can weld that. I would suggest JB if the crack was somewhere that isn't high stress, but that is. They should first unhook the battery just for safety reasons(make sure you have the radio code), then drill the end of the crack like he said to stop the crack from spreading. They will then grind the crack into a "V" to make better weld penetration, and weld it and tap it if necessary. Don't try that one yourself, not worth it unless you want to swap blocks.... Atleast if some shop screws it up they have insurance for that

 
Rep Power: 367

oooouchie... that's a tough part that cracked... Follow ^ and ^^^

 
Rep Power: 191

Good advice. I guess you're right, probably better to get it done right by a good welder than half *** it with JB weld. Either way, I'd get it fixed before it gets worse .

 
Rep Power: 367

^You did not have the pics to evaluate at the time. now, seeing it... ooouchie!

 
Rep Power: 285

Johndeerebones covered it pretty well and that's the route I was going to recommend, so I can only add that I believe our blocks are aluminum.

I have two side notes though:

1. I know that you can technically fix a cracked engine block with jb weld, but am I the only one who thinks that actually attempting to fix a decent size crack with it is completely crazy?

2. Does anyone else think that driving with a broken motor mount for to long could have caused this crack?

 
Rep Power: 313

Hmm... I don't know if driving with a broken mount would cause that honestly but it's possible. My question is, if the block is cracked it should be leaking something. There aren't many spots on the block that arent full of some sort of fluid. I'm still wondering it the crack is in the transmission casing.

 
Rep Power: 191

1. I don't think its completely crazy, I've held tactile transducers to smooth sheet metal with only JB weld and it works just fine, no separation of the JB weld at all after years of transmitting vibrations right through the JB weld... the stuff is really strong.

2. I don't think so.

 
Rep Power: 285

^You've had better luck with jb weld than me then, I've attempted to repair cracks in sheet metal with it before, but the mild vibration of the surface I used it on always cracked the weld once it fully cured. I applied it very liberally, cleaned the metals surface and drill stopped the cracks too. Eventually I just gave in and had it tig welded.

 
Rep Power: 313

You guys are ignoring the fact that a cracked engine block is not leaking any coolant or oil? .. Nevermind.. I just saw the pictures LOL . JB weld won't fix that... no way

 
Rep Power: 200

No, not ignoring it. If you know anything about the casting of any engine block there is actually quite a lot of places that can be cracked and not leak, especially around structural parts like mounts where there is extra "beef"... JB Weld is actually pretty amazing stuff, I just wouldn't use it myself in ALL areas so I will not recommend it either..

 
Rep Power: 0

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE>>>>>>> FIXED (pictures will come eventually but all good now)

Wanted to bring the latest as I REALLY appreciated ALL the insightful comments and suggestions, Thanks!

I was able to remove the center mount and noted it was a replacement which, while looked pristine, BUT had the rubber bushing torn away from the aluminum housing creating the massive movement in the mount as well as a very loose center "through mount" bolt.

AFTER DISCONNECTING BATTERY (had code) AND PROTECTING AREAS AROUND THE AREA TO BE WELDED... >>>> I also will note that the cracked casting noted in the photo WAS able to be fixed (easily) by TIG welding it together AFTER adding new mount.. (ALL done with block/mount in the car)

THIS IS KEY, adding the new mount allowed us to then PINCH (pseudo clamp) the cracked piece of casting in the EXACT location needed to weld together as well as and against the block... delicately using TIG we did NOT add too much heat... doable and pretty darn fast

The area damaged turned out to be VERY superficial (REALLY) and was, even though threaded, simply the 'pass-thru' - "SPACER" for the bolt/mount to be snugged against... IE.. the active threads holding the bold were and are intact and much deeper, or IN the block further...

SO MY Honda (in a box) Civic is good as new again and averaging 32-36 MPG ...

BTW>>>The "in the box" reference is because after buying it, I have had a gazillion NEW or replacement OEM parts sent in MANY Boxes to my house from the various sources out there, ALL to bring the car up to my expectations of condition...

Good as they get now... (though I probably will repaint her due to the NOW obvious less than perfect repairs made by the previous owner from "hidden Damage" including this mount issue caused by now obvious frontal impact... hidden and NOT disclosed by the last seller > nice, Jack#$$... )


THANKS AGAIN >>> GREAT SITE/INFO from you ALL!!!!

MECCA60 ATCO NJ

 
Rep Power: 313

Glad it's all fixed up!! Would you mind taking pics of the welds and posting it up?

 
Rep Power: 235

THREAD JACK!

When I first saw those pics I was like WTF that doesn't look like my mount at all. Then I realized I didn't see a slave cylinder in MECCA60's pic. Any-who, here's pics of mine (manual) so you can compare:

From the top. Can't really see the tab/foot/whatever you wanna call it because the slave cylinder is in the way.


And from the bottom. You get a much better view of that piece of the mount. Notice I said mount, that's 'cause it's part of the mount in the manual tranny version where as it's part of the tranny case in the auto.


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