Rep Power: 268

Last week my passenger wheel studs sheared off. I have taken apart both sides and heading to get new studs and bushings installed. Then I had some down time until parts arrive so I thought I would catch up on maintenance. Changed the oil and started to change the plugs. Well 1 decides to get stuck. So after a couple days of penetrant and slow turning back and forth with a breaker bar, it snapped. Oh happy day. I think I just got in a bit over my head. Now what do I do?

I've read about spark plug rethreaders and heli-coils. But how do I get the base of the plug out? Any suggestions or offers to help would be greatly appreciated.

 
Rep Power: 367

how do you do to get in so many issues at the same time? ...
Anyway, good that you trying to do the stuff by yourself, so not bashing you.
The most certain way would be for you to take the head out and take it to a machine shop to try to take it out, am afraid, unless somebodyelse butts in with a better idea...

 
Rep Power: 812

where did it snap? using a thread tapper and helicoil doesnt really work with the head on the car, because all the metal shavings will fall in the engine. ive heard of shops doing an oil flush but i doubt that would get everything out.

 
Rep Power: 210

Pulling the head and having a machine shop remove the plug or install an insert is the best solution.
If you really want to try it yourself I can think of two possibilities. You may be able to try a bolt extractor on the remaining part of the spark plug. My guess is that if the plug was tight enough to break off you will probably end up stripping the threads. With a lot of penetrating oil and luck it may come out. If you damage the threads in the head removing the spark plug then the other option is to try a Helicoil. I have never tried this but I have been told that to keep metal shavings out of the cylinder you use a heavy grease on the cutting tool so that the shavings get caught in the grease. Clean off and replace the grease as you cut the threads to make sure you get all the shavings.
As I said, I have never tried this on a cylinder head but I have seen heavy grease used on drill bits to capture the metal shavings for other parts and it works OK.

 
Rep Power: 0

I broke a spark plug on an old POS truck I used to have (F150) I had to drill it out then vacuum it out with a shop-vac and a long piece of 1/2 tubing. I work at a machine shop so I had no problem having an insert made. I also suggest you do an oil change before turning the motor over as well and pour about 2-qts of oil through the block to "rinse" it as much as you can OH and get a magnetic oil pan plug. Be happy our cars are low to the ground and the ignition coils are in the front. I had to use a mirror to see down the ignition coil shaft on the truck.

Good luck, did you get your controls arms all squared away yet? I know you had to do the ball joints too, hopefully those came out OK.

 
Rep Power: 0

Then again, taking the head off it probably the cleanest way to go about it. Might take the same amount of time as drilling it too!

 
Rep Power: 268

Yeah lately if it wasn't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all.

 
Rep Power: 268

It snapped just under the hex so only the threads remain. All of the insulator came out.

On a side note, I kinda blame you gb. Your advice to use the cheap V-power plugs made me try them, then laziness got a hold of me and I haven't changed them in quite a while. Okay, partial blame...

 
Rep Power: 268

Since my luck has been all bad lately, removing the head is probably not in my best interest.

Tomorrow I hunt for an EZ-Out spark plug remover. I have been squirting in penetrant this week so hopefully it will be loosened up and just come right out. Yeah, I couldn't even type that with a strait face. I am also planning on getting a rethreader to hopefully repair any damaged threads, if the base comes out okay. Anyone tried the EZ-Out?

 
Rep Power: 268

Dang it, I did the oil change just before changing the plugs. Of course! Should I empty the oil out, get the plug out, add some oil, empty, then fill with all new? Hate to waste the Mobil 1.

Just got the bushings and studs pressed in. I went ahead and also got new bearings too. Changed the ball joint boots, got new endlinks too. Everything goes back on tomorrow. I can't wait to drive her...

 
Rep Power: 313

I have a feeling your going to be taking the head off regardless No matter which way you remove the spark plug now your gonna get shitton of shavings into the cylinder. Fire it up, scar the cylinder walls and your in a world of hurt

 
Rep Power: 0

Well if you going to drill it out do it with a shop-vac and a piece of tubing in the coil constantly sucking the pieces out as you drill. The grease on the drill bit is a great idea too.

I would buy some really cheap oil to use as your flush. I would also change your oil again in a month or maybe less, do the filter of course too.

 
Rep Power: 812

im still not able to figure out how this can happen. were they installed too tight? i usually change my plugs every 3 yrs and they always come out without any effort. no anti-sieze or anything and i do 20 ft/lbs. i have iridiums but even with copper you can go upto 30k miles altho i wouldnt recommend it.

 
Rep Power: 0

Someone probably torqued the ever-loving **** out of it.

 
Rep Power: 210

this is more then likely the case. my x had a 06 ex an she thought cuz she changed oil at walmart that made her a great mechanic. well she tried to change her plugs by herself. she tightened them down an called me an asks how tight they should be. i said 20 ft lbs. she got scared cuz it was at like 60 so she tried to back it out an it snaped. not fun to fix at all people! freakin car had 20k an im tearing the head off. i hope the next time u try to work or ur vic its goes better. good luck

 
Rep Power: 268

Well, the threaded portion of the spark plug is officially out of the head. I got a bolt extractor to do the job. The problem with the extractor is that the end of it is a square for a tap wrench. Well I needed it to get down to the plug, so I beat it into a smaller spark plug socket that I never use. Then an extension and the breaker bar popped it right out. The threads at the bottom of the plug are flat so I am thinking there is a cut thread near the bottom of the hole. So now for a rethreader.

Anyone used a rethreader? I assume it will refurbish the original threads, not cut new threads or make it perfect. I am thinking if the plug flattenend any threads then the rethreader will at least cut the flattened sections back to allow a new plug to thread in. Any thoughts?

And pics of the extractor and thread:


The scratches on the top are from the channellocks used to get the plug off of the extractor:


You can see where the extracor cut into the interior of the plug:

 
Rep Power: 0

nice, craftsman makes a fitting that will hold a square bit on a ratchet, but you got it anyways so thats cool. Now you need to re tap the threads, flush the **** out as much as you can and your good to go. Most taps will somewhat follow the existing threads and start cutting new ones where the problem starts. I'm guessing its going to cut all new threads though - because you backed the mashed threads on the spark plug all the way up. They sell all sorts of different size die and tap kits so make sure you get one larger enough for spark plugs.

 
Rep Power: 812

it might work if there is something to cut into, otherwise there might not be enough metal. you can prolly get it good enough to install a new plug tho.

 
Rep Power: 210

From the look of the plug that came out, it probably left enough of the threads for you to start a tap or rethreader and clean up the old threads without cutting new ones. If you are able to clean up the existing threads be careful when you install the new plug. The repaired threads are probably not as deep as the original and you would definately want to use a torque wrench to be sure you do not strip what is left of the threads. Cleaning or cutting the threads will produce metal particles so clean well.

 
Rep Power: 268

Who would have thought that it would be so difficult to find a good rethreader? I hit the local Advance, AutoZone, and O'Reilly's only to find a short 2-sided rethreader for $8 (14mm one side, 18mm the other. So then today went to Sears and they carry nothing larger than 12mm. Then Napa and they have a "14mm Spark Plug Insert Tap" that is a good 3" long for $27. The part that concerns me is the "Insert" part, which leads me to believe it is the tap for a Helicoil type insert, so it will be larger than 14mm. So it is going back.

Well, to try my luck tonight I rip open the short rethreader to give it a go. Yeah it needs a 13/16" socket, and since it is 2-sided it needs a deep socket. Wouldn't you know, I don't have one of those, of course. So hopefully tomorrow I can find a socket to fit.

After 3 full weeks with no car I am so excited just to get her started up. New plugs (eventually), oil change, and a newly installed dry flow filter, plus the new ES LCA bushings, endlinks, and bearings, she's going to be a whole new ride.

 
Rep Power: 268

Hey guess what. A 13/16" socket will not fit down to the plug. Woo hoo! Back to the drawing board...

 
Rep Power: 268

Well, got a 14mm tap today. Again square end, but it fit in a 3/8" socket. So I just put it on my long extension, then a twist joint with another small extension and it made a T wrench (well an L wrench). The tap slid out of the socket so I wrapped a rubber band around the end of the tap and pushed it into the extension. Worked just fine. Gooped up the end of the tap with grease and oiled the tap threads and started. In about a quarter turn then back out to clean all the shavings off the tap. Regrease and go again. Eventually all the way thru. Cleaned out everything I could, grabbed the vac with a tube and sucked out anything that would come out. Then the moment of truth, installed the plug and torqued to 14 lb-ft. Took out the oil just put in, filled with remnant oil, and started her up. Of course a CEL, let her warm up, reset ECU, restarted for relearn and no codes. Hopefully out of the woods.

Of course nothing goes easily. Emptying the oil to refill after the relearn, I spill oil all over the place. I mean the classic all down the arm, in the hair. Yeah it was great.

Hopefully this is the end of the thread. Thanks for all the help guys!

 
Rep Power: 0

Hi everyone,
I have a '96 civic with 120,000 miles. I bought it to flip and make some cash. I thought my plan was flawed, when I snapped a plug during the tune up process. But your posting with the pictures gave me hope to try it myself. I am happy to report that the operation was a success! Using the grease with the thread chaser really saved me. The grease held all the little chips as the threads were reformed. Thanks for taking the time to post everything you did.

Kevin in RI.